Ok guys, needing some help with a problem.

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Talfalfa33

Talfalfa33

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Ok, here's the deal, I have a jet 1014 midi lathe and I can get it to run, but it's under powered and can stop it just by laying my hand on the workpiece. Also, when I go to switch it on, it sits and buzzes until I spin the hand wheel. It doesn't matter which direction I spin it, it continues running that direction. I've checked the switch and it's clean and solid contacts. My feeling is, the start capacitor went out. But if so, anybody know which one I need to get I order to replace it, and where? Have to get it running soon, in the middle of my daughters wedding gift.
 
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Talfalfa33 said:
Ok, here's the deal, I have a jet 1014 midi lathe and I can get it to run, but it's under powered and can stop it just by laying my hand on the workpiece. Also, when I go to switch it on, it sits and buzzes until I spin the hand wheel. It doesn't matter which direction I spin it, it continues running that direction. I've checked the switch and it's clean and solid contacts. My feeling is, the start capacitor went out. But if so, anybody know which one I need to get I order to replace it, and where? Have to get it running soon, in the middle of my daughters wedding gift.
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You have a bad capacitor. There is a blister on the side of the motor that you will need to remove to expose the capacitor. You take the capacitor off and take it down to Granger's and get a replacement.

CAUTION: Capacitors hold a charge and can shock you! Before you tough any of the wiring on the capacitor short the terminals together with an old screw driver to drain any possible remaining charge.
 
You don't say if yous is the VS version or not. If not VS, than the capacitor is located under a cover attached to the motor and is a 20uf 250VAC capacitor. You can have it tested at an electric supply parts place. Be careful removing it, be sure to short across the terminals before you touch them or you can get a good shock.
If you have the VS model, then there may be a problem in the CB, more than I can help you with.
 
sounds like you have 2 problems - the starting issue is the capacitor. If you have a Grainger account, you can get one there. Otherwise, you could find find it on Amazon pretty easily.

the other issue sounds like you may have a set screw loose on the pulley where it connects to the drive shaft. I've never delved into my Jet mini that far to see if it has one - but had the same thing happen on my 1236 last year or so. The set screw had backed out and the pulley was spinning on the shaft.
 
Thanks guys, I figured it was that, I work maintenance, but I don't mess with capacitors any. Ian I know they hold a charge and it feels worse than a 115 v bite. Plus everything is tight as for the set screws, I'm just able to stop the motor by resting my open palm on the workpiece.
 
Talfalfa33 said:
Thanks guys, I figured it was that, I work maintenance, but I don't mess with capacitors any. Ian I know they hold a charge and it feels worse than a 115 v bite. Plus everything is tight as for the set screws, I'm just able to stop the motor by resting my open palm on the workpiece.
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Your motor *might* be a split capacitor type motor where you have start and run capacitors. If this is the case, and the capacitor is bad, the motor will fail to develop full torque while it is running which is why it is easy to stop with just light pressure.

On the other hand, there might be a centripetal switch in the motor that switches the motor between start and run windings. If the motor is not coming up to speed then this switch is not operating correctly and the motor is trying to run on the start windings.
 
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Hey guys, thanks for all the info. Finally had a chance to break into it last night and found this for a capacitor. I think it might be a little bad. It's a 25uf 250vac with a -35 ~ +65 degrees Celsius.
 

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The Smoke Theory

Are you familiar with the "smoke theory" of electronics? It states that electronics components are manufactured with smoke inside them. If the smoke gets out, they stop working.

Regards,
Eric
 
Ok, got it back running but the capacitor I could find was longer and didn't leave any room for the spade connectors or even the wires to go over the top inside the cover. So had to cut a notch in the top ridge for the wires to come out and the wire nuts down the side in the recess where all three components ( motor, capacitor, and cover ) all meet. Then tape over the top to prevent an accidental short between the terminals and cover. And for that smoke theory, in most cases, this is true.
 
Just an FYI. I do quite a bit of electronic work. DigiKey is where I get most of my stuff. You can do a search for the value and it will give you dimensions, etc. You don't need an account. Be carefull, caps can bite you.
 
Well, here's an update. Bought two start capacitors and blew both within 2 to 10 minutes. Took the motor to a rewind shop and he'd it checked and motors good. They hooked up a run capacitor and ran for two hours straight and never even got hot. The only problem now is trying to mount this large shinny capacitor somewhere.
 
Talfalfa33 said:
Those where the two that blew out. And at the cost, not gonna work.
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Hi,

Sorry to "butt in" but, did you just say that, you had 2 capacitors the same as the original (Jet genuine) and you blow the up within 10 minutes of running the lathe, and some other capacitor (the shiny one) works fine..???

Something isn't right here, if the original Jet capacitor lasted that long and everything is OK, what explains the 2 capacitors you replace to burn so quickly, I only see that happen when the capacitors are not the correct ones...!

I'm confused...!

PS: Capacitors do fail, and I would expect anyone that has a wood lathe for 12 months or more, to have runned into a burn capacitor at some stage...!

Cheers
George
 
robutacion said:
Hi, Sorry to "butt in" but, did you just say that, you had 2 capacitors the same as the original (Jet genuine) and you blow the up within 10 minutes of running the lathe, and some other capacitor (the shiny one) works fine..??? Something isn't right here, if the original Jet capacitor lasted that long and everything is OK, what explains the 2 capacitors you replace to burn so quickly, I only see that happen when the capacitors are not the correct ones...! I'm confused...! PS: Capacitors do fail, and I would expect anyone that has a wood lathe for 12 months or more, to have runned into a burn capacitor at some stage...! Cheers George
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That is correct, I ordered two capacitors from jet and both blew in under ten minutes each. Those are, according to jet, start capacitors. But when I spin the hand wheel it'll run, but I can stall it out by grabbing the work piece. But when the winding shop had the run capacitor hooked up, it would start and could not stall it out.
 
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