Sealing ends of acrylics

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kenlholley

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Hi everyone.

I have been turning pink acrylics for Breast cancer month and I'm having problems when I wet sand them. It seems the water and sanded material is getting in between the tube and the blank on the ends causing dark discoloration. I use medium CA to glue the tubes in and have not had any problems with them letting go. I apply the CA liberally on the tubes and twist the tube as I insert them. For some reason the ends are not getting enough glue to seal them. Other than trying epoxy, which I had some bad luck with), any other suggestions?

Thanks
 
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Hi Ken!!

Although a picture would help, I will take a stab.

Before you "face" the blanks, put medium or thick CA into the gap between the tube and the plastic. If you have the time, do one end, let it set for an hour, then do the other end. IF you are in a hurry, do one end, hit it with accelerator, wait ten seconds, turn over and do the other end the same way.

Hope I am understanding the problem, the "discoloration" worries me----a gap should not give you discoloring.

FWIW,
Ed
 
I use epoxy and haven't hade that problem, but I would do as Ed suggested and put extra CA on the ends after gluing the tube in.
I would guess that the discoloration is from sanding across the bushings and it seeps into the gaps. I have noticed that the water gets dirty looking when I hit the bushings.
 
It does seem like it is the "dirty" water getting between the tube and the blank. I will try sealing the ends before I square them up to see if it helps. I haven't had time to figure out how to post a picture...sorry.
 
I only use epoxy on my tubes and have never had a problem. Every time I pick up a bottle of CA I end up with a mess. Plus the smell of the stuff irritates my sinus and I start sneezing. Don't like using something that I have to wear a hazmat suit.
 
Boz said:
I only use epoxy on my tubes and have never had a problem. Every time I pick up a bottle of CA I end up with a mess. Plus the smell of the stuff irritates my sinus and I start sneezing. Don't like using something that I have to wear a hazmat suit.
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I've never tried ca on tubes..seems to me epoxy is soooo much easier to work with and in case you have an issue painting the tubes or insides of the blanks, you have a little bit of time to correct the issue. Even with med or thick ca you best be ready to have it right the first time. Wish I was that talented:redface:..I've saved some train wrecks using 5 min..imho..geo
 
Joe S. said:
StephenM said:
Don't wet sand? Seriously. I go from a skew right to micromesh and run through the micromesh spectrum and end up with glass smooth pens.
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Isn't micro mesh wet sanding?
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Nope...400-800 wet/dry...usually used for automotive and other types I'm sure, is a good starting point. If I'm having a bad skew day...default is 400 wet and move on from there. Micromesh usually starts about 1000...IMHOO!!!!
 
Last edited:
ed4copies said:
Hi Ken!!

Although a picture would help, I will take a stab.

Before you "face" the blanks, put medium or thick CA into the gap between the tube and the plastic. If you have the time, do one end, let it set for an hour, then do the other end. IF you are in a hurry, do one end, hit it with accelerator, wait ten seconds, turn over and do the other end the same way.

Hope I am understanding the problem, the "discoloration" worries me----a gap should not give you discoloring.

FWIW,
Ed
Click to expand...

I was wondering about that Ed. Do most people end up with a "wobble" or elongated bore at the terminal end of the blank? I know there have been more than a few for me. Educational answers of a constructive nature sought.
 
Jim Burr said:
ed4copies said:
Hi Ken!!

Although a picture would help, I will take a stab.

Before you "face" the blanks, put medium or thick CA into the gap between the tube and the plastic. If you have the time, do one end, let it set for an hour, then do the other end. IF you are in a hurry, do one end, hit it with accelerator, wait ten seconds, turn over and do the other end the same way.

Hope I am understanding the problem, the "discoloration" worries me----a gap should not give you discoloring.

FWIW,
Ed
Click to expand...

I was wondering about that Ed. Do most people end up with a "wobble" or elongated bore at the terminal end of the blank? I know there have been more than a few for me. Educational answers of a constructive nature sought.
Click to expand...

It is NOT unusual for a drill bit to make the entry hole larger than the diameter of the bit.

OPINION:!!! I think this is a sign of a dull bit.

FACT: I have heard many people complain about it and some swear their bit is sharp. (Their OPINION!!)

I find when I sharpen the bit, this problem is minimized---the bigger the bit the less likely it is to do this, as well (stiffer means less flex??)

A trick I sometimes use on one-piece pens is to make the blank a half inch longer than I need, then cut off the "entry" side---this seems to minimize the oversize hole issues.

No firm answers, just suggestions and theories.

FWIW,
Ed
 
I thought about drilling slightly smaller. Dry sand with micro mesh? The pads or the cloth 3x6 strips? Also I guess I will try epoxy again, hopefully with better luck.
 
I had a problem with a few of my pens being dark on the ends also, the only thing I could figure out that was causing it was wet sanding. Since I've stopped wet sanding I've not had a problem, it seems that the discoloration was coming from the bushings.
For the gluing process, I always apply a thin coating of CA on each end of the blanks once they've been squared up. Doing this not only helps with the discoloration problems, but it helps stops the blanks from splitting when your press fit the parts into the ends of the tubes.
Len
 
You Can Purchase Micro Mesh Sheets, Not Foam Filled Pads, That are from 1,500 to 12,000. They Will eliminate discoloration within the blank/tube. Works on CA finish over wood and Fabric or Fiber covered tubes even if the ends of the blanks are not sealed as you describe.
________________________________________________
Everyday I'm Vertical is a great day
 
Sounds like discoloration from the bushings. Be careful not to sand the bushings as it will cause it to blacken on the ends. It could be the tubes showing through the blank also depending on the color of discoloration.
 
I lean towards using gorilla glue more and more. Since it expands it fills every empty space between blanks and tube. Of course it's not the perfect solution, since it has its drawbacks, like everything.
 
Turncrazy43
Do you use it dry or wet and where do you get it.

I sand wet now with the pad (cut bigger pads in half)and have never had an issue. Never reseal the end either. We spoke it, now I am worried about sanding with wet mm tomorrow.
 
I'm dry sanding now. Also I am sealing the ends after squaring the blanks. I may have been having this problem all along and never noticed it until I began turning the light pink acrylics for breast cancer month. I have turned a few now and they seem to be much better. I think sealing and not wet sanding will solve my issue.

Thanks to all.
 
You could try dabbing a little paste wax on the blank ends to seal them to the bushings and prevent the water from ever making it down to the tubes. If it never gets there it can't cause a problem.
 
I find the bit makes a larger hole (I agree, with small bit size especially) when I try to rush and let the bit get hot. The shavings in certain acrylics will get hot and melt a bit and come out of the hole in small balls, which (my theory) act to enlarge the hole either by creating some wobble in the bit or by acting as a abrasive on the way out. I find going slow and letting the bit and blank cool minimize this. A little water works for me when things get too hot as well.

[/quote] It is NOT unusual for a drill bit to make the entry hole larger than the diameter of the bit.

OPINION:!!! I think this is a sign of a dull bit.

FACT: I have heard many people complain about it and some swear their bit is sharp. (Their OPINION!!)

I find when I sharpen the bit, this problem is minimized---the bigger the bit the less likely it is to do this, as well (stiffer means less flex??)

A trick I sometimes use on one-piece pens is to make the blank a half inch longer than I need, then cut off the "entry" side---this seems to minimize the oversize hole issues.

No firm answers, just suggestions and theories.

FWIW,
Ed[/quote]
 
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