Got the G3 and pin jaws are on the way

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
D

Dale Allen

Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2012
Messages
1,384
Location
Massillon, OH
So tell me, those who have these tools.
Are the jaws going to be black like some pictures show them or will they be shinny like the 50mm jaws that came with the chuck?
BTW, the dial caliper shows about a .0015" runout on the outer casing which is a really good sign. This thing is very well made.
Also, I got the setup with the adapter for my 1" x 8tpi. It included a single set screw which I assume is for the reversing lathes.
Question is, would it even be necessary?
I never used a washer on my other scroll chuck and I could get it loose just by putting one of the bars in the chuck and smacking it with my hand to break it free. I have done the same with the G3.
I cannot see any case where you would want to turn from the other side of the lathe so it seems sanding and applying finish would be the only operations you would do in reverse. Neither seem to be aggressive enough to break the chuck free. I have seen comments from people who do not use the locking chuck on their reversing lathe.
Any first hand knowledge of this or accidents to report?
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Jaws are shiny.

A bit of sanding shouldn't be a big deal but it's always safer to lock it down.

You can turn in reverse but people rarely do. As a lefty, I plan to experiment with it for some work (not pens though). Lol.
 
I've never used the set screws in reverse and have never had any problems. I wouldn't advise you to do the same due to safety concerns, but nevertheless that's been my experience.

I only use reverse when sanding bowls and other such turnings where I have issues with endgrain tearout. I can't really see there would be any bennifit reverse sanding any spindle type turnings.

The only time I have any problems with a chuck loosening off the spindle is while turning goblets and boxes... sometimes while hollowing them out I'll develope some "chatter" and the vibrations will allow the chuck to work it's self loose and it will come all the way off if you're not careful.
 
I know one turner that hasn't got the hang of working right-handed. For the left-hand turners.......reverse; with the tool support on the other side, works wonders. At least till we can maybe train him to use the tools right-handed.

There really is more then one way to make shavings.
 
Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback.
Dan, you be careful there!
If I get a reversing lathe at some point I may use the lockdown but as I change from the chuck to TBC so much I imagine it would get to be a pain.
I've had the chuck jaws come loose while turning and that was interesting enough.
When going in the forward direction the chuck should thread itself right back on if it did come loose.
 
stonepecker said:
I know one turner that hasn't got the hang of working right-handed. For the left-hand turners.......reverse; with the tool support on the other side, works wonders. At least till we can maybe train him to use the tools right-handed.

There really is more then one way to make shavings.
Click to expand...

This confuses my thinking!
Either way, the work piece is spinning down against the tools.
Being right handed or left handed makes no difference.
I work equally well right to left or left to right. In one direction the handle is in my right hand and the other way it is in the left hand.
There are some cases where it is near impossible to make a cut if you cannot switch hands.
 
It is like trying to make a left-handed person write with their right hand.

Sometimes you have to adapt your teaching to meet the students needs.

For me, it was something I had to experience to understand. I am right handed but when on the 'other side' of the lathe......there is a difference. Lucky for me, I can use the tools both ways. Younger students have to learn how the tools work before they can begin to adapt.

And I still call myself a 'newbie'........I am always learning.
 
Dale Allen said:
Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback. Dan, you be careful there! If I get a reversing lathe at some point I may use the lockdown but as I change from the chuck to TBC so much I imagine it would get to be a pain. I've had the chuck jaws come loose while turning and that was interesting enough. When going in the forward direction the chuck should thread itself right back on if it did come loose.
Click to expand...
i thought your lathe had reverse. No reverse, no problems with locking down the chuck.
 
I wasn't taking about spindle work guys! Come on. Spindle work works whether you control the tool with your left or right hand.

I'm talking about faceplate / hollowing work. Front the front of the lathe.

I do stand at the end of my lathe sometimes.
 
to limit your turning to one style/type and teach by forcing lefties to be righties is just wrong. A good turner should be able to turn front and back of the lathe as well as left and right handed.
 
FWIW, for hollowing some turners find it easier to run the lathe in reverse and while still standing in front of the lathe cut the inside surface towards the back of the lathe. (does that make sense?) That way you can see the cutting edge without hanging over the lathe bed and you have better control of the tool since you are not reaching so far and the handle stays closer to your body.
 
That would most likely spin the chuck off if it were not locked on.
I don't recall Edie talking about that but maybe I missed it.
That is one of those things that go wrong quickly and with disastrous results.
 
He dooes lock the chuck on. He has a couple videos on hollowing, and at least one he talks about locking the chuck set screw so it cannot twist off. I know Nova and Oneway chucks have a locking screw.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom