anthonyd
Member
Hello,
What grit do you use when squaring blanks on your disc sander?
Thanks,
Tony
What grit do you use when squaring blanks on your disc sander?
Thanks,
Tony
Why square a blank?
If you don't square the blank, then when you press the parts together, there will be a gab between the blank & the fitting. Not all the way around. You'll have places that touch, but others that won't, so gaps show. The more pens you do, the more you see the small imperfections. And these aren't all that small.Why square a blank?
If you don't square the blank, then when you press the parts together, there will be a gab between the blank & the fitting. Not all the way around. You'll have places that touch, but others that won't, so gaps show. The more pens you do, the more you see the small imperfections. And these aren't all that small.Why square a blank?
There are numerous ways to square a blank that does not involve sandpaper, disc sanders, end mills or the like. Also much more accurate.
As for grit size goes, 80, 120, 150 and 220 is to coarse to do a good proper job, 1/3 the size of 220 would net the range you should be working in.
This question brought up a (semi-)random thought. On my bench 6"disc sander, I may try putting a 60 grit pad on, followed by a 3-4" 120 grit pad in the middle. I'd get both grits without having to change pads (some cutting may be necessary). I'll have ot try this...
This question brought up a (semi-)random thought. On my bench 6"disc sander, I may try putting a 60 grit pad on, followed by a 3-4" 120 grit pad in the middle. I'd get both grits without having to change pads (some cutting may be necessary). I'll have ot try this...
This question brought up a (semi-)random thought. On my bench 6"disc sander, I may try putting a 60 grit pad on, followed by a 3-4" 120 grit pad in the middle. I'd get both grits without having to change pads (some cutting may be necessary). I'll have ot try this...
That is a cool idea Dan. But for my setup wouldn't gain much because I have the belt and disk.
I'm not sure if most belt / disk sanders have a fence for the belt though. I just check / reset mine with a square and its actually more accurate than my disk table, which tends to get a little loose over time.
There are numerous ways to square a blank that does not involve sandpaper, disc sanders, end mills or the like. Also much more accurate.
As for grit size goes, 80, 120, 150 and 220 is to coarse to do a good proper job, 1/3 the size of 220 would net the range you should be working in.
Really? Numerous ways to square the ends of a blank to the tube after the tube is in that don't involve sand paper or a mill?
Do tell.
I don't know if it's the simple solution, but it's similar to the way I square up blanks. Although I don't glue the tube in the blank after I drill it. I remove the blank to glue the tube.The simple solution for perfect squaring of the ends is on the lathe with a chisel. You can drill, glue and square one end at the same time with out removing the blank from the lathe. 3 steps that will be spot on.
I then square the blank using a parting tool. Then I drill. I found that if I don't square it before drilling, the bit might wonder a little, and give me a hole that's out of round.
Mine is a belt/disk, too, but it's probably easier than shifting from one to the other. Run a few seconds on the outer ring for rough removal, then a few seconds on the inner ring (circle?) to smooth it off. No need to shift positions, only need one fence adjustment.That is a cool idea Dan. But for my setup wouldn't gain much because I have the belt and disk.
Mine is a belt/disk, too, but it's probably easier than shifting from one to the other. Run a few seconds on the outer ring for rough removal, then a few seconds on the inner ring (circle?) to smooth it off. No need to shift positions, only need one fence adjustment.