Source for 50 Cal components

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ALA

ALA

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Bassett, Va.
I've made and sold a few 50 Cal pens but I'm having problems finding casings and bullets to make more. If anyone knows were I can find these it sure would be a big help. I'd rather not buy in bulk...only need about 5 or 10 (maybe up to 25). Any help is appreciated! :biggrin:
 
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ALA said:
I've made and sold a few 50 Cal pens but I'm having problems finding casings and bullets to make more. If anyone knows were I can find these it sure would be a big help. I'd rather not buy in bulk...only need about 5 or 10 (maybe up to 25). Any help is appreciated! :biggrin:
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They are difficult to sell because of gun/ammunition shipping and selling laws. Some of them cover any component that can be made to fire so sellers need to take special precautions or get special licenses to handle them. That's why the fakes are so popular - they can't be made into a real cartridge.
 
Not many ammo reloading sources sell in quantities of less than a 100. Here a couple of places, one sells the bullets in 20 packs and another that sells the brass in 100 count units. Make sure you know what you are buying and that it will be compatible with what you plan on using them for. Make sure you read the instructions for making the 50 cal pens and UNDERSTAND them before you order. Most ammo components sellers do not take returns.

.50 Caliber BMG Bullets Products | LG Outdoors

50 BMG Ammo Supply - 50 cal Ammunition for the rifle and machinegun"

There are not federal restriction on shipping brass or the bullets, the restrictions are on the primers, powder, and loaded ammo. You should not be using any these items for making pens.
 
Thanks Monty, that's a pretty good deal on those. I have a local source but I have to clean, polish, and resize myself for the same price.
 
Thanks for the links. Can the AP bullets be drilled? The reason I asked, a friend gave me a bullet and shell but I couldn't drill the bullet. I thought it might be a AP or something of this sort.
 
I would think the AP tips would be difficult to drill.
Along this same line. I'm finding it difficult to find a source for FMJ/BT projectiles that is not out of stock.
 
ALA said:
Thanks for the links. Can the AP bullets be drilled? The reason I asked, a friend gave me a bullet and shell but I couldn't drill the bullet. I thought it might be a AP or something of this sort.
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You need Tracers you can drill them. Anything else is A.P. and drilling is a problem.

If you still need a few sets PM me I have at least 50 sets (once fired brass & tracer rounds) lying about. I bought 100 a wile back and don't use them anymore. I drill out the Tracer Incendiary then use a torch and melt out the lead. Then your ready to drill and make into a NIB.

.
 
You can get non-AP 50's very easily to I might add, even in non-bulk orders. They are plentiful

You want to be *VERY* careful when drilling into anything that is not ball ammo reason being is there are various elements in there you must contend with.

If you have to deal with 'license' 'shipping laws' and all that B$%^#%&t then odd's are you are not in a free state and you really need to think long and hard about who you vote for. Last I checked the label went "America, land of the free and home of the brave".
 
dogcatcher said:
Not many ammo reloading sources sell in quantities of less than a 100. Here a couple of places, one sells the bullets in 20 packs and another that sells the brass in 100 count units. Make sure you know what you are buying and that it will be compatible with what you plan on using them for. Make sure you read the instructions for making the 50 cal pens and UNDERSTAND them before you order. Most ammo components sellers do not take returns.

.50 Caliber BMG Bullets Products | LG Outdoors

50 BMG Ammo Supply - 50 cal Ammunition for the rifle and machinegun"

There are not federal restriction on shipping brass or the bullets, the restrictions are on the primers, powder, and loaded ammo. You should not be using any these items for making pens.
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WOW!:eek: The price of components sure has gone up!

The only restrictions are the components cannot be shipped out of the U.S. AND they must be legal to possess in your state. Quite frankly buying reloading components is very easy. It just takes MORE money now since the price of reloading components has sky rocketed thanks to the current administration. When I got my 50 BMG I stocked up so I'm pretty much set for a few more years. When I do need something I resort to these people but they apparently are out of brass at the moment and don't have any "surplus" bullets. Widener's Reloading and Shooting Supply INC

I don't think I could bring myself to drilling out a 750gr Hornady though :frown:
 
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There are several different types of bullets made for 50 BMG, including:
  • Commercial copper jacketed lead,
  • Commercial solid copper alloy,
  • Mil-spec "ball", which has a copper jacket over a (mostly) steel core,
  • AP (black tip armor piercing), which has a very hard tungsten core,
  • Tracer (red tip), which has a flammable magnesium insert,
  • Incendiary (blue tip),
and many more. The commercial solid copper bullets are probably the easiest to obtain and drill - but they are also among the most expensive. A few people here use tracer bullets. One has successfully drilled an AP bullet. I use the standard M2 Ball projectile, and drill through the (mild) steel core.

50 BMG component availability is cyclic, so you have to stock up when you can. Right now, brass in most calibers is scarce and prices are rising.

Regards,
Eric
 
'reloading' is a 2rd tier sub-culture. Currently today there are approximately 1 BILLION rounds of ammunition manufactured *PER DAY* which includes *ALL* forms of shooters. Every component that is made is being fed into that majority monster sector to crank out those numbers. Primers are not easy to make nor are they quick and you do not want them to be either. As soon as they are made they get shipped out immediately and used.

The Reloading community and others like black powder percussion caps and other interest groups are sitting in a holding pattern until the supply chain is fixed. The current projected hold will ideally ease up around September of this year 2013 in which time primers and other misc items will once again flow easier to the sub-culture markets.

Keep in mind to that seasonal adjustments have greatly added to the problem as currently we are in 3 gun season and various other seasons so during the current months demand is HEAVIER.




As for sourcing goes deprimed and once fired brass should not pose any problems with shipping, even to the communist states. All you really need to do is find a good long range shooter who reloads and most that I know of would be super glad to help out. You might even be able to work out a trade as well. Just about every shooter that I know is more than helpful to others, even non-shooters.

One very easy avenue is on the reloading process you can fire brass a set number of times then it is discarded (HINT HINT HINT) there even exist some non-reloadable cases. The range is also a good source as there often are many cases laying around (assuming you have access to a long distance range that does 50 bmg, otherwise you will be limited to 30 caliber) Keep in mind also that spent brass at the range has a higher % of non-reloadable cases.
 
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Oh another note to. You do *NOT* want to be drilling into exotics like tracer, API, APIT, IT, ST, STI or the like. They contain chemicals that can cause some nasty accidents in the shop. Don't go there.
 
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Ed,
Thanks for the PM and links, but not exactly what I'm looking for. I can find the brass, no problem. It's the bullets everyone seems to be out of, specifically these:


  • Commercial copper jacketed lead,
  • Commercial solid copper alloy,
  • Mil-spec "ball"
in quantities of 25 to 50 per order (unless several want to go in on an order of 500).
 
Monty said:
Ed,
Thanks for the PM and links, but not exactly what I'm looking for. I can find the brass, no problem. It's the bullets everyone seems to be out of, specifically these:


  • Commercial copper jacketed lead,
  • Commercial solid copper alloy,
  • Mil-spec "ball"
in quantities of 25 to 50 per order (unless several want to go in on an order of 500).
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I have a few leads out to several friends of mine and I know at least 3 that does shoot the big 50 but will find out what I can.

I do know that some of them cast their own projo's but not sure about the 50 as that requires non-standard reloading equipment. I suppose to work around that you could use wood or something cast but I would *NOT* recomend using pure copper or pure brass for that FYI.
 
edstreet said:
You do *NOT* want to be drilling into exotics like tracer, API, APIT, IT, ST, STI or the like. They contain chemicals that can cause some nasty accidents in the shop. Don't go there.
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I agree with Ed on this. Remember, I'm the guy who disassembles live primers and casts gunpowder to make pens -- but I won't drill tracer bullets. That should tell you something.

Regards,
Eric
 
Let me put it this way :)

color-chemicals.png


I put this together a few years ago when I started collecting 30-06 exotic ammo. This is the chemicals in the projo's that give the bullet that 'special' property. The tip color may look pretty but it's like the rattle on a rattlesnake, it is there to warn you of the dangers.
 
For the pen side of things a pure brass or copper would be best. However in firearms, especially dealing with GCA where they list solid copper, brass and a few others as "armor piercing" and BATFE says if it can be put in a handgun then they are coming after you.

Personally I feel this is entirely stupid and very much idiotic. But I would not want to see anyone getting fingered by the government for making the fabled "cop killing bullets".

There was A very recent case where one company was raided and shut down for making solid copper, may have been brass, projectiles in .223. Now keep in mind there are several other companies that makes the same thing as well and nothing has been done about them.

Also recently several air soft importers were fingered and excuse given they could be converted to full automatic and fire live ammunition.
 
edstreet said:
For the pen side of things a pure brass or copper would be best. However in firearms, especially dealing with GCA where they list solid copper, brass and a few others as "armor piercing" and BATFE says if it can be put in a handgun then they are coming after you....
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I didn't know there was a 50BMG handgun.
 
Sylvanite said:
edstreet said:
You do *NOT* want to be drilling into exotics like tracer, API, APIT, IT, ST, STI or the like. They contain chemicals that can cause some nasty accidents in the shop. Don't go there.
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I agree with Ed on this. Remember, I'm the guy who disassembles live primers and casts gunpowder to make pens -- but I won't drill tracer bullets. That should tell you something.

Regards,
Eric
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Could you tell us the best way (or your way) to disable a live primer? I've heard you could put oil in the casing and let it sit for a few days would do it. :rolleyes: I have one casing I could use if it was disabled. :cool:
 
ALA said:
Could you tell us the best way (or your way) to disable a live primer? I've heard you could put oil in the casing and let it sit for a few days would do it. :rolleyes: I have one casing I could use if it was disabled.
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[size=+2]Do NOT[/size] rely on oil to deactivate a primer. Modern primers are quite resilient to oil contamination.

The [size=+1]only[/size] safe way to disable a life primer is to fire it in a machine (such as a rifle) designed for that purpose, taking all the same safety precautions you would in firing a live round.

If you have a shellcase with special meaning that has a live primer, send me a PM and I'll arrange to deprime it for you. If it's an ordinary primed shellcase, then just using a different one is cheaper, simpler, and safer.

Regards,
Eric
 
Sylvanite said:
ALA said:
Could you tell us the best way (or your way) to disable a live primer? I've heard you could put oil in the casing and let it sit for a few days would do it. :rolleyes: I have one casing I could use if it was disabled.
Click to expand...

[size=+2]Do NOT[/size] rely on oil to deactivate a primer. Modern primers are quite resilient to oil contamination.

The [size=+1]only[/size] safe way to disable a life primer is to fire it in a machine (such as a rifle) designed for that purpose, taking all the same safety precautions you would in firing a live round.

If you have a shellcase with special meaning that has a live primer, send me a PM and I'll arrange to deprime it for you. If it's an ordinary primed shellcase, then just using a different one is cheaper, simpler, and safer.

Regards,
Eric
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I would PM Eric. I had a case once that I needed deprimed and I used a nail and a hammer and a clamp. Don't do what I did.
 
We had a bunch (20) 45-70s one time that were black powder and we pulled the bullets poured out the powder and then loaded each case into a rifle and fired it. We then resized the necks and put the bullets back It's been so long ago that I don't know what we wanted them for.
 
[SIZE=+2]Do NOT[/SIZE] rely on oil to deactivate a primer. Modern primers are quite resilient to oil contamination.

If you have a shellcase with special meaning that has a live primer, send me a PM and I'll arrange to deprime it for you. If it's an ordinary primed shellcase, then just using a different one is cheaper, simpler, and safer.

Regards,
Eric[/quote]

I wouldn't rely on the oil theory either. The one I have has been soaking in oil for weeks but I still wouldn't trust it. This shell is nothing special so it wouldn't be worth while to send it to you but, thanks for the offer just the same.

I would PM Eric. I had a case once that I needed deprimed and I used a nail and a hammer and a clamp. Don't do what I did.[/quote]

Ha ha. I didn't do what you did but I did just as bad. A friend of mine left a few live rounds at a local gun store and asked them to remove the projectiles for me. I went by to pick them up and of course they still had the live primer in them. I asked the guy what about the primer and he said just put a torch to them and it'll just make a "poof". I knew better than this but I put the shell in a chuck, put safety glasses on, stood to the side, and THEN put the torch to it! :eek: Most of us know what happened next. Of course, it sounded about like a .22 cal going off. I never did find the primer. :frown:
 
ALA said:
[SIZE=+2]Do NOT[/SIZE] rely on oil to deactivate a primer. Modern primers are quite resilient to oil contamination.

If you have a shellcase with special meaning that has a live primer, send me a PM and I'll arrange to deprime it for you. If it's an ordinary primed shellcase, then just using a different one is cheaper, simpler, and safer.

Regards,
Eric
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I wouldn't rely on the oil theory either. The one I have has been soaking in oil for weeks but I still wouldn't trust it. This shell is nothing special so it wouldn't be worth while to send it to you but, thanks for the offer just the same.

I would PM Eric. I had a case once that I needed deprimed and I used a nail and a hammer and a clamp. Don't do what I did.[/quote]

Ha ha. I didn't do what you did but I did just as bad. A friend of mine left a few live rounds at a local gun store and asked them to remove the projectiles for me. I went by to pick them up and of course they still had the live primer in them. I asked the guy what about the primer and he said just put a torch to them and it'll just make a "poof". I knew better than this but I put the shell in a chuck, put safety glasses on, stood to the side, and THEN put the torch to it! :eek: Most of us know what happened next. Of course, it sounded about like a .22 cal going off. I never did find the primer. :frown:[/QUOTE]We used to occasionally put a 22 round in a piece of pipe and hold a railroad fusee to it....the casing used to fly off (we did know enough not to stand behind it) and we'd have a perfect bullet.
 
Oil soak is *NOT* effective.
Water soak is *NOT* effective.

Both can neutralize SOME the compound but it will take DAYS for that to happen. Once the primer is again dry, i.e. DRILL PRESS FRICTION HEAT, it will again go BOOM. If you puncture the primer from the outside you *WILL* get back lash, that is serious high temperature flame shooting out towards the drill head.

Soaking the primer in oil UNDER PRESSURE for a day or so will neutralize MOST of the priming compound but there is no 100% assurance that is the case and you WILL get some that still goes BOOM. The #1 problem with soaking is this, depth of soak will not be that great and you can easily have dry material around wet material (we have all seen lumpy batter where you have lumps of flour in water and inside that lump is dry flour). Any heat applied, be it drill bit friction, temperature or any other source will cause the primer to revert to it's previous state.

The main ingredient in primers is lead styphnate. There are lead free primers in which they use special blends of chemicals but they are still handled the same way as for safety.

From WIKI.
There are two forms of lead styphnate: six-sided monohydrate crystals and small rectangular crystals. Lead styphnate varies in color from yellow to brown. Lead styphnate is particularly sensitive to fire and the discharge of static electricity. When dry, it can be readily detonated by static discharges from the human body. The longer and narrower the crystals, the more susceptible lead styphnate is to static electricity. Lead styphnate does not react with metals and is less sensitive to shock and friction than mercury fulminate or lead azide. Lead styphnate is only slightly soluble in water and methyl alcohol and may be neutralized by a sodium carbonate solution. It is stable in storage, even at elevated temperatures.

As with other lead-containing compounds, lead styphnate is inherently toxic to humans if ingested i.e. can cause heavy metal poisoning.
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The best method of dealing with this issue is to use ONCE FIRED BRASS. That is brass that has been already used. Many have noted finding projectiles (a.k.a. bullets but not loaded ammunition) so the second best method is pull the projectile, remove the powder and FIRE the primer.

In any of these types it is always CRITICAL to do these things OUTDOORS as you are working with lead. Lead is very toxic and even more toxic to kids so take caution and special handing techniques when dealing with this.



------
The above info came directly from or was confirmed to be accurate by CCI Ammunition. If anyone has any doubts about this information then please contact them for verification.

CCI Ammunition
2299 Snake River Avenue
Lewiston, ID 83501
1-800-256-8685
 
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Monty said:
I just checked Natchez Shooting Supply and they have 50 Cal BMG 650gr BTFMJ in stock. A box of 20 is $18.49. Just placed my order.
**DISCLAIMER - I am in now way affiliated with Natchez Shooting Supplies, just a satisfied customer.
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Thanks for posting. Yea, I got an email from them the other day but I had already placed an order here. I only see the brass with primers on their site. :rolleyes:
 
ALA said:
Monty said:
I just checked Natchez Shooting Supply and they have 50 Cal BMG 650gr BTFMJ in stock. A box of 20 is $18.49. Just placed my order.
**DISCLAIMER - I am in no way affiliated with Natchez Shooting Supplies, just a satisfied customer.
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Thanks for posting. Yea, I got an email from them the other day but I had already placed an order here. I only see the brass with primers on their site. :rolleyes:
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I've been buying my brass from Buckhorn Brass, 25 unprocessed for $22.75 including shipping.

 
Monty said:
I just checked Natchez Shooting Supply and they have 50 Cal BMG 650gr BTFMJ in stock. A box of 20 is $18.49. Just placed my order.
**DISCLAIMER - I am in now way affiliated with Natchez Shooting Supplies, just a satisfied customer.
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Interesting that their price for a box of 20 is less per piece than in a box of 400. At regular price a box of 20 is $1.00 per piece vs almost $1.07 per piece if you buy 400.
 
http://gunbot.net/

This is also a very good site to buy ammo, the link is to reloading supplies which is brass, primers and projectiles. This a crawler bot that scavenges sites looking at cost and in stock items. During the magpul drought and high demand (read from $8 per to $100 per) there were several site still selling and non-gouging prices.
 
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