Mandrel Saver messed up threads?

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Kirk Dietrich

Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
59
Location
Kenner, Louisiana
Well, I finally got set up but had a little problem with the mandrel saver unless it was operator error.

Last month, I talked to Ed at Exotic Blanks and ordered what he recommended for ten pens exluding the wood, which I have an abundance. Well, it took a little while to get a drill press and I was busy with fly stuff and just got around to building a work bench for the drill press and band saw - had to clean out the back of the shed first so you can imagine...

Anyway, I cut and drilled a couple blanks last night and glued a tube in each blank so I could give it a whirl tonight. Well, this morning, I couldn't wait, so, before work, I chucked up a blank and turned it down. Everything went real well and I think I may like this.

The sort of problem came when I removed the brass nut from the end of the mandrel; when it got near the end of the mandrel, it stopped. Seems the Mandrel Saver that was slipped over the threaded end up close to the nut did a little damage to the last thread or two. I was able to get the nut off and it fixed the threads on the way off but that does not seem like a good thing. Am I doing something wrong I wonder?

Kirk
 
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Kirk you do not use the brass nut on the mandrel when using the saver, if your talking about the saver that the rod and threads go in u just add a spacer to your bushing and slide the tailstock up and tightne it a little, you will feel how much u have to put pressure on it when turning, if u used a 60degree cone that fits in the end of the mandrel you usethe nut,otherwise leave it off, and try and get it to slide over at least 1"of threads at the least, I have found out ,I like turning between centers when i put ca on it and sometimes turn on BTC,Try and leave the nut off,If i can be of any help you can email me
Rodney-carpblaster
 
If you are using the PSI mandrel saver throw the brass nut away, it is not used with the mandrel saver. The mandrel saver should be snugged up against the bushing you are using, no nut between them.
 
Hot damn! That was easy, thanks.

Just hope the rest of the process goes this good.

Can't wait to get home now - its going to be a long eight hours today.

Thanks again fellas,
Kirk
 
I have mandrel savers on all the lathes in my shop at school and they have been great. My only complaint is the noise they make. I wish I could buy a better quality unit with a quieter bearing.
 
Well, got home pumped up to finish my first pen and I'll be damned if the damn lathe stopped working! The switch that is. Have to go to Harbor get another and return this one. Looks like it'll be a couple days now before I get to finish my first pen.

Kirk
 
That's a bummer man! I know I couldn't wait to finish my first pen the day I got my lathe. I may have been tempted to hard wire it past the switch and plug it into a foot pedal instead.
 
Man, I wish I was comfortable with electrical. If the new one messes up, I'll have to look in to doing what ya'll suggest with the hard wire and integrating a variable speed control some kind of way.

Rob, that sounds great. Check your PM.

Kirk
 
Man, I wish I was comfortable with electrical. If the new one messes up, I'll have to look in to doing what ya'll suggest with the hard wire and integrating a variable speed control some kind of way.

Rob, that sounds great. Check your PM.

Kirk

Hard wiring past a switch is pretty easy. Variable speed control isn't something that the motors on these lathes are designed for. The conversion kits to make something variable speed include a new motor.
 
The best solution for me was to listen to the gurus of IAP and turn between centers. No more problems with the mandrel. Hmmm, where is that thing?
 
I have mandrel savers on all the lathes in my shop at school and they have been great. My only complaint is the noise they make. I wish I could buy a better quality unit with a quieter bearing.

You can...

The Better Mandrel Saver

Hi Rob I have seen The better Mandrel Saver advertised on IAP many times but haven't seen any reviews from owners. I lookrd at the website provided and can't see how this differs from the regular mandrel saver (they both put pressure on the bushings). I would love to see a youtube movie that explains the better mandrel saver features that make it better. I would also like to see a movie of a pen being machined using the tool.

Don.
 
1) The tolerances are MUCH tighter... My PSI mandrel saver has a gap between the mandrel and saver. So such gap on the better mandrel saver

2) The bearing is much quieter. Well after I took a little aluminum off the inside of the "cap" ... it was a very close fit between bearing and what I'm calling the cap (the piece that touches the bushings). Under pressure it was rubbing a bit. A couple minutes fixed that. The maker offered to replace it, but it really was a < 5 minute fix, and hasn't needed anything again.

3) The mandrel rod itself is much tighter to the bushings. In fact if anything spills on the mandrel or into the bushing it won't fit.

I've all but completely switched to turning between centers, but of the 2 the better mandrel saver is a much better tool.
 
I may have been tempted to hard wire it past the switch and plug it into a foot pedal instead.
I did that as a "short-term solution" about ten years ago now.

Someday, I really should repair that:confused::confused::confused:

To join the thread; The problem may be just dust in the switch. It accumulates and prevents the switch from making contact. Sealed switches are a good idea.

Some time ago I was ripping small pieces of wood on my table saw. As I reached for the cutoff piece, THE SAW TURNED BACK ON!!! After replacing some clothing,:eek: I fixed the problem with the switch, but now all my power tools have a "kill switch". When it is off, IT IS OFF!

I have a safety switch with a large push off paddle on my lathe. It is right where my knee is when I am turning.
 
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