Pen Mills

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keithbyrd

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What kind of pen mill do you use? I have one - I think it came from PSI?
1. I can't keep it (or maybe get it) sharp
2. I keep breaking the wood and it splits off the tube

I started using a sander but I would prefer the mill if I could help eliminate some dust.

SO what do you use and how do you sharpen :confused:and keep sharp?
 
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I don't like the 6 blade milll either. One reason is they are quite difficult to sharpen with the "short" blades and I don't think they cut as well as the 4 blade cutters.

The link Lenny gave is an excellent article on how to sharpen a pen mill. It doesn't take much to get them back into shape. Follow the article's instructions and the mill will be cutting nicely again.

I haven't seen the two blade carbide mill but I will be checking it out next time I'm in the Woodcraft Store in the DFW MetroPlex.

Do a good turn daily!
Don


Lenny said:
There was talk of Whiteside possibly coming out with a carbide version ...??
They make excellent router bits!

I have tried several different ones and now prefer the 4 cutter ones over the 6, for whatever that is worth. :smile:

Search youtube for several videos on sharpening or look at this ...
http://penmakersguild.com/articles/penmillsharpening1.pdf
Click to expand...
 
I asked some on this yesterday.
I have the new white side 4 bladed mill. It is very nice. From WC
The problem I am having is in using it correctly. The old one I was using was starting to make waves around the top of the blank, or I think it is as when I an done turning there are waves on the end of the pen blank. I am turning using bushing. I have heard I should turn between centers, but I am new at this. The new white side is doing the same thing, making waves.
What do I need to do differently. Maybe I am looking to carefully. I use a jewelers loop to look at the blanks when I am done, to check the quality. But from the great pens I see on this site I know you guys and gals are looking very carefully at your pens.
Help please, Tom
 
Tom T said:
I asked some on this yesterday.
I have the new white side 4 bladed mill. It is very nice. From WC
The problem I am having is in using it correctly. The old one I was using was starting to make waves around the top of the blank, or I think it is as when I an done turning there are waves on the end of the pen blank. I am turning using bushing. I have heard I should turn between centers, but I am new at this. The new white side is doing the same thing, making waves.
What do I need to do differently. Maybe I am looking to carefully. I use a jewelers loop to look at the blanks when I am done, to check the quality. But from the great pens I see on this site I know you guys and gals are looking very carefully at your pens.
Help please, Tom
Click to expand...

I am having the same problem - and I don't need a loupe to see them. I assumed it was because it was dull. I either get the wave or it splits the blank.
Anyone have some insight?
 
I have used the carbide trimmer and it is very tricky to get the hang of. It can tear up the end of a blank very easily if you don't use a very light touch. So I only use it on very hard and large blanks that it fits entirely on the end. For most things I use a 5/8" 4 blade cutter head which is faster and easier than most because it takes off less material. I have done 150 pens with it and it still leaves a nice trimmed surface.
 
@ Don Ward ... I didn't even notice that the WC carbide one was only 2 cutters. :eek:

If they DO have a 4 cutter carbide version I would love to hear some feedback from anyone that uses one.
 
I know that several have said that they do not like the two blade carbide from PSI but I have been using one for several years. Several hundred pens later it still cuts easily in wood and acrylic. I have never ruined a blank with it. I have both sizes in carbide from PSI and I am completely satisfied.
 
I use different methods depending on the blank but I do have the 4 vane mill from Woodcraft and I've sharpened it and it made a huge difference. Just take the shaft out and use the same grinder you're using to sharpen your lathe tools...or use a file. It's just like a tool for your lathe...you grind the angled edge of each vane and just try to do it evenly.
 
Regarding making wave-like patten on the blank/brass. I had that happen and it took me a while to figure it out, here's what is happening. When you tighten the drill chuck around the shaft of the trimmer, you need to do so above the groove cut out in the trimmer for the head to tighten on to. If you tighten the chuck, but the jaws are around the area of the shaft where the channel is cut for head to attach to, it will cause a very slight imbalance. Another cause is that the head may not be tight enough, and I do mean you need it tight!, it will flop around on the trimmer also.

Try these two things and see if it helps. I have the Whiteside heads and they work great. Just keep them SHARP.



Tom T said:
I asked some on this yesterday.
I have the new white side 4 bladed mill. It is very nice. From WC
The problem I am having is in using it correctly. The old one I was using was starting to make waves around the top of the blank, or I think it is as when I an done turning there are waves on the end of the pen blank. I am turning using bushing. I have heard I should turn between centers, but I am new at this. The new white side is doing the same thing, making waves.
What do I need to do differently. Maybe I am looking to carefully. I use a jewelers loop to look at the blanks when I am done, to check the quality. But from the great pens I see on this site I know you guys and gals are looking very carefully at your pens.
Help please, Tom
Click to expand...
 
Keith,

Two things come to mind immediately this is a very old chestnut and I have given my thoughts on many posts.

Ist thought when you use any sander use protection from dust anyway.

2nd thought for over fifteen years and in use by me today is a stepdrill in high speed steel that was the very first reamer made in the good old USA.

Step drills have been loosely described as those tapered things that enlarge holes in a viscious way as well as many others.

The one I have is a snug fit first size approximately 1 1/2 inches the fit inside 7mm brass tubing( wonderful cause it does not poke through the brass and ream a hole in my hand) this then steps up (hence the name Step Drill) to around a half inch. In the process of manufacture it has a slight shaping where it meets the brass that perfectly reams the entry into the brass tube and the almost flat lands give a flat face to the blank.

As in all things in the hands of gung ho people they used to fit it into a battery drill and try
to ream the living daylights out of a blank and all sorts of problems ensued as they do to this day with most blank reamers.

My reamer is as good today as when purchased and since my majority interest is Slimlines with Streamline centre bands who hoo. Step drills can be made in any size in Tool Steel or Carborundrum drill manufacturers or remanufacturers can make them by grinding existing drills in either of the Tool or Carbo Steels. It is common practice in this country for special grinds.

I fitted a Wooden handle to mine initially and treat it as carefully as a Vernier Caliper.

Benefits and non benetits for me are pristine removal of any crap in the brass, perfect entry into the brass with the reaming on entry, double check my sanding technique for flatness.

A few old pics may assist my explanation.

My reamer cost me over twenty dollars at purchase should have heard the criticism over price all those years ago same as today all the kerfuffle over drills, shapes sizing resharpening. I use drill point DeWalt made in the USA drills cheerfully throw them away after so many hundreds of drillings. Amortising uses, lifetime ets tells me this has been and continues to be the cheapest part of penmaking for me. Promise this is the last time I will bore everyone.

Kind regards Peter.
 

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Gilrock said:
I use different methods depending on the blank but I do have the 4 vane mill from Woodcraft and I've sharpened it and it made a huge difference. Just take the shaft out and use the same grinder you're using to sharpen your lathe tools...or use a file. It's just like a tool for your lathe...you grind the angled edge of each vane and just try to do it evenly.
Click to expand...

Grinding or filing the beveled edge is not the generally accepted method. If it's working for YOU that's fine but honing the back (flat) edge will keep it sharp without throwing off the height of each vane.
 
After reading the .pdf linked in a previous post, I followed the instructions, sharpening ONLY the flat side, and my barrel trimmer came back to life.
Cutting through ebony was a breeze. :smile:
 
Lenny said:
Gilrock said:
I use different methods depending on the blank but I do have the 4 vane mill from Woodcraft and I've sharpened it and it made a huge difference. Just take the shaft out and use the same grinder you're using to sharpen your lathe tools...or use a file. It's just like a tool for your lathe...you grind the angled edge of each vane and just try to do it evenly.
Click to expand...

Grinding or filing the beveled edge is not the generally accepted method. If it's working for YOU that's fine but honing the back (flat) edge will keep it sharp without throwing off the height of each vane.
Click to expand...

Cool so when you all figure out my way is the best method you can call it the Gilrock Grind...haha. Coming up with new ways to do things....it's what I do...

Think about how you would sharpen a scraper. You don't want to grind the long flat surface on top, you grind the short edge. Now you might use a stone across that flat surface to hone it after you grind it. Finally I know it's at a microscopic level but it doesn't matter which surface you remove the metal from...you are changing the height of the vane. If you always attack the flat surface eventually it won't be flat anymore because you can't get a honing stone across the whole flat surface at once.
 
I use a 4 wing carbide cutter that I got from Nolan years ago. I actually have 2. I love that thing. It works great unless the wood is punky. If it is, I use a sander.

I bought the PSI 5/8" 2 winged cutter. I hate that thing. I don't know how many blanks that thing ruined before I got the 3/4 cutter from Nolan. I'm a pretty patient guy, so I don't think it was because I was rushing things.

I'll probably die before these things get dull.
 
Over the past 11 years I have used every type of barrel trimmer. A new steel trimmer head is sharp and works very nice until it gets dull. Carbide last a very long time and works best the more cutters it has but carbide is never as sharp as steel and they work best with very hard wood. Soft woods it can do a terrible job. 80% of my pen sales are Sierra pens with a 27/64 drill bit. The trimmer shaft fits the tube and I use a 1/2" trimmer head and I have trimmer thousands of blanks and still sharp. The trick is the smaller trimmer head cuts so little that there is very little friction, friction makes heat and hot steel dulls quickly. I got the new trimmer about 3 years ago and trimmed at least 4000 blanks with. It was not cheap, around $35 for the head and shaft.
 
I use the six-cutter heads from Rizheng. They are super inexpensive as I use them as box fillers to maximize my stuff/shipping cost ratio. When one goes dull, I toss it in the trash can and use a new one.
 
I had the same problem. I believe it's because the PSI mill has only two blades. I recently got a Whiteside mill from Woodturner which works much better. The Whiteside mill has four blades. Woodturner now offers all the drill sizes including 8MM.
 
I know this thread is a little old, but I wanted to add to the discussion. I bought the Whiteside 2 blade carbide (looked like a 4 in the package). That sucker is way sharp! I can easily trim with this thing by hand. In the drill press, you have to be very careful, it will can get agressive under power, but it will shave some nice curls off the end of the blank. Did I mention it is sharp!?:eek:

5/8 would be preferable because it can cause trouble with cross grain if you get off the edge of the blank. Anybody know of a 5/8 carbide?

Harry
 
I use a barrel trimmer, sharpen it often on the flat sides and use it by hand not in a drill press. I cut the blanks close to the tube so there is not much to be trimmed. I use a handle, which gives me good control.
 
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