CA question for Segmenters

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plano_harry

plano_harry

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Has anyone tried the various CA types that Mannie sells for segmented work on dissimilar materials? I asked Mannie, but he doesn't do much segmented work, so I am going to the forum...

Specifically looking to compare standard E-Z bond, (Stick Fast, or whatever) with the "surface insensitive" and the "clear rubberized" varieties to find a more better adhesive for these labor intensive projects. Thanks for any insight you can share.

Harry
 
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Harry,
I've used medium CA from Mannie for segmenting aluminum and wood.
Lately, I've been thinking I want to try something different though.
I need to make up a batch of pieces for segmenting; then I want to try Liquid Nails
construction adhesive. Once that stuff sets, it's pretty invincible.
 
I use his medium a for segmenting wood, aluminum and resin. The only problems I have had we're self inflicted. Make sure you scuff up the aluminum to get rid of any oxide layer and to provide a little tooth for the glue to grab hold of. As long as you remember to do this, it works pretty darn good.

Jake
 
RetiredJake said:
I use his medium a for segmenting wood, aluminum and resin. The only problems I have had we're self inflicted. Make sure you scuff up the aluminum to get rid of any oxide layer and to provide a little tooth for the glue to grab hold of. As long as you remember to do this, it works pretty darn good.

Jake
Click to expand...

I use Mannies stuff mostly thin, some medium, works well, the thin is very thin and I use it to glue in the paper/plastic/aluminum inserts as it penetrates well. I buy it is 16 oz size as I use A LOT of. I also buy his bulk accelerator and put into a Preval type sprayer. I also use the thin for my gemstone inlays in cracks, holes etc. The alligator filled with turquoise was done with thin. I will use medium if I am laminating stuff, it gives more open time.

SAND the aluminum within an hour before gluing, the clear oxide coating that forms on it does not bond well and must be removed. wipe down any oily woods with acetone just before gluing.

An added note, when drilling KEEP THE BIT cool! At about 150 deg F CA has lost nearly 40% of it's strength. Epoxy does too. I withdraw often and cool with alcohol or water.
 
No knock here on Mannie or his CA glue. In fact, his CA works works as well or better than any other I have used.

BUT, when I do segments with brass or aluminum ( even after sanding and washing away any coatings on the metals), I just seem to have better luck with epoxy. I WISH I could figure out how to make CA hold, simply because epoxy takes longer to set and is messier than a soup sandwich.
 
I have used Med and Thick CA for my segments nearly exclusively. The only other thing I have used was tightbond II. And it is only on wood to wood. And yes, I have done some segmenting.
 
The only CA I use I get from Mannie. And I do all of my pen segmenting/inlays with it. I use either thin, or think depending on what I'm gluing. For example, thin for plastic and metal (either to either). Thick for wood to either of the above. Like the others have said, make sure the surfaces being glued provide plenty of tooth for the adhesive.
 
You will HAVE to give us a report on that :biggrin: could be a breakthrough!

I presume they have some clear -- not the stuff that looks like gravy.


GaryMGg said:
Harry,
I've used medium CA from Mannie for segmenting aluminum and wood.
Lately, I've been thinking I want to try something different though.
I need to make up a batch of pieces for segmenting; then I want to try Liquid Nails
construction adhesive. Once that stuff sets, it's pretty invincible.
Click to expand...
 
Mannie's ca is the only thing i have ever used for segmenting. I have never had a joint fail on me...yet! I know it will happen eventually but ive been happy so far.
 
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