rbruce2u
Member
Can anyone tell me how to prevent the CA finish from chipping when I remove the bushing from a Sierra blank. I am trying to use about 15 - 20 coats of med. CA.
Thanks for the help.
Bob
Thanks for the help.
Bob
CA chipping when removing bushing
- Thread starter rbruce2u
- Start date
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h0race
Member
Bob, I actually had this problem some time ago. I have used a modified parting tool to clean up the bushing where it meets the blank while it is still spinning on the lathe. You have to be real careful you don't damage your hard work or your bushing. I like to dress the blank lightly with a pen mill once I get it separated.
firewhatfire
Member
Are you using delrin bushings to finish them? If not I recommend those to start.
edstreet
Member
Turn between centers, dont use bushings. Game over.
Dalecamino
Local Chapter Leader
You can also use an exacto knife to score the ca while turning the head stock wheel by hand. Take the blank off the lathe, rock the bushing back and forth to snap it loose. Lay a piece of 320 on your bench, and lightly sand the ends of your blanks smooth. As said above, Delrin bushings are best for finishing with CA. You can get them from John at penturnersproducts.com
navycop
Member
I put a piece of wax paper on the mandel between the bushing and the blank. Tape it to the bushing or it will spin around while you are appling the CA. DAMHIKT.
rherrell
Member
Can anyone tell me how to prevent the CA finish from chipping when I remove the bushing from a Sierra blank. I am trying to use about 15 - 20 coats of med. CA.
Thanks for the help.
Bob
I think that's part of your problem, why so much? I use two coats of medium on mine and I sand half of it off!
Like I said, that many coats of CA is only PART of your problem. Try some of the tips above, they're all good ones. Personally, I use Delrin centers when applying CA.
rherrell
Member
OOPS! Sorry, the computer froze and I hit SUBMIT too many times....WHY can't we DELETE posts?????
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rherrell
Member
@#$%@!
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Carl Fisher
Member
As mentioned earlier, do your finishing between centers with no bushings and all of your problems disappear.
edstreet
Member
you dont need 20 coats of CA.
you dont need 3 coats of CA.
you dont need to use the BUSHING to put CA on the blank.
you dont need 3 coats of CA.
you dont need to use the BUSHING to put CA on the blank.
Some people don't turn between centers yet. To answer your question. I usually trim off the excess with a square end chisel while running, or use an exacto with the lathe off like mentioned above. Any excess after removed can be trimmed with a single edged razor blade or equivalent.
edstreet
Member
Ok point taken. CA glue cant stick to wax surfaces like paste wax, ren wax and the like. So 2nd best thing is to wax the bushings.
KBs Pensnmore
Member
I use 4 layers of paper washers in between the bushes and the blank. When finished I use a sharp knife to trim the CA on the edge towards the bushing and then sand the blank with 320 grit fitted to the back of the pen mill (chuck end), a couple of turns and the jobs done.
Kryn
Kryn
firewhatfire
Member
Now thats just a brilliant idea. I know some bowl turners use this method, just never thought of crossing it over to pen.
Justturnin
Member
Yep, part the glue off and score it with a blade and wax the bushings.
When I was using a mandrel I got some 1" delrin, drilled a 0.25" hole in two pieces and turned them to cones w/ a slight taper. This way I could use them for all of my pens. Wax the delrin still and finish away. CA will still stick to unwaxed delrin but this way will help and it will save your steel bushings.
When I was using a mandrel I got some 1" delrin, drilled a 0.25" hole in two pieces and turned them to cones w/ a slight taper. This way I could use them for all of my pens. Wax the delrin still and finish away. CA will still stick to unwaxed delrin but this way will help and it will save your steel bushings.
leehljp
Member Liaison
This problem is what drove me to TBC some years ago. On oily woods such as cocobolo and ebonies, the chips or "lifting" on the ends occured because the CA did not adhere as strongly to those woods.
I am not sure from your posts that you are using calipers yet, but that is a GREAT tool to use to up the level of skill and fit/finish. Don't rely on the size of the bushings to finish the blank but upon the calipers in measuring the nib end, center band and clip end. Mark those measurements down and then turn/sand down to just under that size. In applying CA, build up to the sizes you measured.
When finishing against the size of the "bushings" remember this: Bushings should be considered as "consumables" because you will nip them with the chisels and sand them down each time sandpaper hits them. Over 10 to 30 pens the bushing size (where it meets the blank) will be reduced, at which point it is not reliable for sizing the blank anymore. So, either buy more bushings - or learn TBC and use calipers to determine the size. While some TBC turners do not use bushings at all, many use bushings to turn the blanks to near size then remove the bushings and sand down to size without bushings. Finishing is done without the bushings. The result is that the bushings are not considered as consumables any more and will be "permanent" tools. Much cheaper in the long run!
I am not sure from your posts that you are using calipers yet, but that is a GREAT tool to use to up the level of skill and fit/finish. Don't rely on the size of the bushings to finish the blank but upon the calipers in measuring the nib end, center band and clip end. Mark those measurements down and then turn/sand down to just under that size. In applying CA, build up to the sizes you measured.
When finishing against the size of the "bushings" remember this: Bushings should be considered as "consumables" because you will nip them with the chisels and sand them down each time sandpaper hits them. Over 10 to 30 pens the bushing size (where it meets the blank) will be reduced, at which point it is not reliable for sizing the blank anymore. So, either buy more bushings - or learn TBC and use calipers to determine the size. While some TBC turners do not use bushings at all, many use bushings to turn the blanks to near size then remove the bushings and sand down to size without bushings. Finishing is done without the bushings. The result is that the bushings are not considered as consumables any more and will be "permanent" tools. Much cheaper in the long run!
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Traguh
Member
I also use calipers for sizing. Turning between centers comes with experience you'll get to it when your ready! Until then I would do as others have suggested try delrin bushings and or the razor method.
Randy Simmons
Member
Punch
I just have a bar of steel that fits in the tubes of my pens, and use a rubber mallet to punch out the bushings. Clean tear and really satisfying.
I just have a bar of steel that fits in the tubes of my pens, and use a rubber mallet to punch out the bushings. Clean tear and really satisfying.
leehljp
Member Liaison
That DOES seem to be the perception that is going around now-a-days. About 3 or 4 years ago, a couple of relatively new pen turners asked why in the world we did not recommend it to people at the beginning. After they tried it, they both said it was much simpler than mandrels (less complicated), much less problems with off center/out of round.
Truth is, if one started off with TBC, it would be cheaper than starting off with mandrels.
Here is the REAL reason many people don't use TBC: All pen turning catalogs, online or paper, sell mandrels. People read catalogs, and people buy what they read. Then they go to a forum and because they cannot visualize the simplicity of something - just totally ignore it or disbelieve it. It has nothing to do with "experience". It has to do with not understanding the simplicity and less parts. TBC is NOT a higher level of experienced turning, it is Less complication and more productivity. BUT if one is comfortable with mandrels, that is OK.
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ToddMR
Member
I just CA between centers with no bushings. I like that best personally. I have tried other methods, but am most comfortable doing it that way.
I did start with mandrel method. You can get a good dead center for $20 or less, I forget really. Just don't be dumb like I was and reach between centers for something when lathe is off. Those tips are super Sharp and will cut your arm if it scrapes against it. But yeah it took no higher skill and I personally like it best. Good luck in whatever method you choose.
I did start with mandrel method. You can get a good dead center for $20 or less, I forget really. Just don't be dumb like I was and reach between centers for something when lathe is off. Those tips are super Sharp and will cut your arm if it scrapes against it. But yeah it took no higher skill and I personally like it best. Good luck in whatever method you choose.
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Can anyone tell me how to prevent the CA finish from chipping when I remove the bushing from a Sierra blank. I am trying to use about 15 - 20 coats of med. CA.
Thanks for the help.
Bob
Im not really sure how well this helps but from the ones I have and havenot done this way seems like odds of chipping or peeling off is a lot less. Instead of starting out with just medium try using thin CA for first 2 or 3 coats, it seemed to me that medium doesnt really soak into the wood as well and is just bonded to the surface, with thin CA to me it seems like it soaks down into the wood more and makes the glue and wood more of a single piece then the medium almost acting like another layer or blanket over the wood
bastallard
Member
Since I purchased a 60 degree dead center and a 60 degree live center, I have not had any problems at all with CA finishing, I still turn with a mandrel but only use the centers when applying CA. I did have some trouble finding a 60 degree dead center but there are a few vendors that carry them.