Beginner starter sets

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cseymour

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Hi All,
Getting close to purchasing my first lathe. I am also interested in getting recommendations as far as "starter sets or kits". Are some better than others (PSI vs CSUSA) or is it a matter of personal preference?

Thanks in advance.

Chris
 
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cseymour said:
Hi All,
Getting close to purchasing my first lathe. I am also interested in getting recommendations as far as "starter sets or kits". Are some better than others (PSI vs CSUSA) or is it a matter of personal preference?

Thanks in advance.

Chris
Click to expand...
Go to the IAP Library and look for General Reference then go to Getting Started in Pen Turning by leehlip This is good info for just getting started.

Were I to do it over I would start with a Sierra kit (or one of its clones), and only buy the necessary Hardware to make them ie: bushings. mandrel kits etc: also I would start with a carbide insert tool like the Pen Pro so as to cut down on sharpening. Read the list in the library then come back here with questions about specific tools. sorry for the rambling, to answer your question. I don't think it is a good idea to just buy a starter kit.
Thanks for listening

Tim


Good Judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.
 
I agree with most of what said above. But I'd spend a week or more reading & re-reading information in the library. Not just the beginner section, but anything that you find interesting. That's what I did before I ever ordered anything. And it saved me a bunch of time, frustration & most important, money.

One thing I decided to do was to turn between centers. I never bought a pen mandrel. I kept reading about blanks that were out of round, or mandrels that were not true when new. At first it seemed that only experienced turners didn't use pen mandrels, so I assumed it took more skill. In fact it's just as easy, and some things are easier.

Another thing I decided to do was to drill on the lathe vrs buying a vice for pen drilling. I do have a bench top drill press, but I've drilled a few pens on it with an improvised setup till my collet chuck arrived.

I agree that a sierra style pen is a great 1st pen. It's easy to make, and you can fix it if it has a problem. This was one thing I did wrong. I started with slimlines. I bought about 20 thinking it would be good practice. After 3 I was ready to try new things. So only buy a few of whatever you want to try 1st. Or maybe a couple of a few different styles. Don't go crazy buying kits till you get a few under your belt.

One other thing to do is to read the kit evaluations under "Product Testing and Review".
 
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Excellent info -- for you and me both! I'm new, too. I've got a crapload of stuff in the shop ready to TRY, but have not had time to do it. Either the lack of time, or the dreaded "crap, NOW what do I have to buy to get this done!?"
 
BSea said:
I agree with most of what said above. But I'd spend a week or more reading & re-reading information in the library. Not just the beginner section, but anything that you find interesting. That's what I did before I ever ordered anything. And it saved me a bunch of time, frustration & most important, money.

One thing I decided to do was to turn between centers. I never bought a pen mandrel. I kept reading about blanks that were out of round, or mandrels that were not true when new. At first it seemed that only experienced turners didn't use pen mandrels, so I assumed it took more skill. In fact it's just as easy, and some things are easier.

Another thing I decided to do was to drill on the lathe vrs buying a vice for pen drilling. I do have a bench top drill press, but I've drilled a few pens on it with an improvised setup till my collet chuck arrived.

I agree that a sierra style pen is a great 1st pen. It's easy to make, and you can fix it if it has a problem. This was one thing I did wrong. I started with slimlines. I bought about 20 thinking it would be good practice. After 3 I was ready to try new things. So only buy a few of whatever you want to try 1st. Or maybe a couple of a few different styles. Don't go crazy buying kits till you get a few under your belt.

One other thing to do is to read the kit evaluations under "Product Testing and Review".
Click to expand...

Boy, if this post doesn't hit the nail on the head for me, I don't know what does.

I, too, bought slimlines thinking I'd need tons of practice. I bought a big package of the cheap ones and ended up donating almost all of them to a worthy cause. Same thing with blanks - bought a ton of average looking wood blanks that sat forever. I'm finally using some for segmenting, but still, never should have bought them in the first place.

I'll second the motion to read, read, read and buy only what makes sense for now. Pick a style, buy a few component sets and what you'll need to make 'em into a pen. Once done, pick a new style and do it over again, maybe with a different blank material this time.

Don't buy a tube insertion tool:redface:.

Have fun:biggrin:
 
InvisibleMan said:
I'll second the motion to read, read, read and buy only what makes sense for now. Pick a style, buy a few component sets and what you'll need to make 'em into a pen. Once done, pick a new style and do it over again, maybe with a different blank material this time.

Don't buy a tube insertion tool:redface:.

Have fun:biggrin:
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shhhhhh. I'll think I might sell him mine.:biggrin:

EDIT: I need to correct something in my earlier post. I said the "ONE" thing I did wrong" . . . . I've done lots more than one thing wrong when it comes to pen turning. If houses could be built with 6" pieces of wood, I could build a 4 bedroom 3 1/2 bath dream home for my wife. Or maybe a medium sized shop for me.:rolleyes:
 
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BSea said:
InvisibleMan said:
I'll second the motion to read, read, read and buy only what makes sense for now. Pick a style, buy a few component sets and what you'll need to make 'em into a pen. Once done, pick a new style and do it over again, maybe with a different blank material this time.

Don't buy a tube insertion tool:redface:.

Have fun:biggrin:
Click to expand...
shhhhhh. I'll think I might sell him mine.:biggrin:

EDIT: I need to correct something in my earlier post. I said the "ONE" thing I did wrong" . . . . I've done lots more than one thing wrong when it comes to pen turning. If houses could be built with 6" pieces of wood, I could build a 4 bedroom 3 1/2 bath dream home for my wife. Or maybe a medium sized shop for me.:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Wouldn't THAT be the ultimate "segmented" project!
 
BSea said:
InvisibleMan said:
I'll second the motion to read, read, read and buy only what makes sense for now. Pick a style, buy a few component sets and what you'll need to make 'em into a pen. Once done, pick a new style and do it over again, maybe with a different blank material this time.

Don't buy a tube insertion tool:redface:.

Have fun:biggrin:
Click to expand...
shhhhhh. I'll think I might sell him mine.:biggrin:

EDIT: I need to correct something in my earlier post. I said the "ONE" thing I did wrong" . . . . I've done lots more than one thing wrong when it comes to pen turning. If houses could be built with 6" pieces of wood, I could build a 4 bedroom 3 1/2 bath dream home for my wife. Or maybe a medium sized shop for me.:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

I'll send him mine for free - only used once. I'll even include the blank it's stuck inside of.:biggrin:
 
Slimline oversale

Most vendors say that slimlines are the easiest pens to turn - they're not - virtually all of the other kits are as easy or easier (with the possible exception of those needing tenons) where slims are handy is they are cheap and you can get wood for them pretty cheap. The size is also a fairly popular size and you do have quite a lot of flexibility in shaping them. Now having said that you might want to buy a few of them to get used to the tools, etc.

When I started turning pens I had never picked up a gouge before - it was all new so I did have to turn a few before I understood what to do and how to do it. Still even my first attempt was ok and a number of my early pens are still in use so they weren't bad - never-the-less you can start with any kit at any price and with care create a dandy pen.

Starter sets are handy if they provide bushings, drill bits several styles of kits and perhaps blanks of the correct size for the kits...
 
I bit the bullet about a year ago and got the advanced starter from PSI. Wish I didn't. I would follow the advice of the other posts and start with the sierras and get what you need.
 
Wow
Thanks to all for the great replies. I will definitely be doing some reading this weekend.

Also, a question about sharpening. I do carve (mostly whittling, but I do use gouges). I notice most people say they sharpen their tools on a grinder or stone, does anyone strop their turning tools or is that not necessary?

Thanks again for all the info

Cheers

Chris
 
I agree with the above advice. Start with a Sierra - I particularly like the "click" version. It's easier and offers more potential for eventual embellishments than the slimline.

As for PSI, almost everything I have bought from them has been a disappointment. And their customer service really sucks ! Same for Woodcraft.

Deal with the small guys ... I recommend Exotic Blanks, Beartooth Woods, Arizona Silhouette, Wood 'n' Whimsies, Classic Nib, Indy~Pen~Dance, in no particular order.
 
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cseymour said:
Wow
Thanks to all for the great replies. I will definitely be doing some reading this weekend.

Also, a question about sharpening. I do carve (mostly whittling, but I do use gouges). I notice most people say they sharpen their tools on a grinder or stone, does anyone strop their turning tools or is that not necessary?

Thanks again for all the info

Cheers

Chris
Click to expand...
For most tools I just use my slow speed grider, and I'm good to go. But with my skew, I do use a diamond stone to give it a sharper edge. And Just hit it a few times now & then to keep it sharp.
 
It is very hard to get your tools too sharp. Stroping never hurts, it just takes longer. BEfore I bought my WoodChuck Bowl Pro, I used my slow grinder and then the stroping wheel on the other end. I still believe the tools stayed sharp longer and started out sharper.
I bought the starter set from PSI. Second mistake, first was starting to turn @#$@#*&&%$ pens to begin with! Just kidding! Most of what was in the kit was given away or still lying in a drawer somewhere. The above advice is all good and you were wise to ask the members here. make shavings and enjoy.
Charles
 
Let me disagree

I must disagree with most of the people's posts here. I like the idea of the starter kits. As a beginner with LIMITED FUNDS, the idea of saving from 20 to 50 percent by buying a starter set is very appealing. It allowed me to start small. Most starter sets only have a few pens, some as few as two and none over about 8 or 10 (which is NOT a "crapload" IMHO). In addition, I must depend on the mandrel until I can afford a new lathe. I was given an old WoodWrite Ltd. lathe and had to adapt it (with help from bluwolf) from template use to manual turning. I cannot turn between centers because the Taig headstock and small tailstock will not allow it. And all of that brings me to the reason for my jumping in here. There is no such thing as the right or wrong way to start. We all start where we are and move forward the best way we can. We need to help new pen-turners (I still are one) move forward and find their way. So...use what you've got, do what you can, and stick with it!
 
Flaturner said:
I must disagree with most of the people's posts here. I like the idea of the starter kits. As a beginner with LIMITED FUNDS, the idea of saving from 20 to 50 percent by buying a starter set is very appealing. It allowed me to start small. Most starter sets only have a few pens, some as few as two and none over about 8 or 10 (which is NOT a "crapload" IMHO). In addition, I must depend on the mandrel until I can afford a new lathe. I was given an old WoodWrite Ltd. lathe and had to adapt it (with help from bluwolf) from template use to manual turning. I cannot turn between centers because the Taig headstock and small tailstock will not allow it. And all of that brings me to the reason for my jumping in here. There is no such thing as the right or wrong way to start. We all start where we are and move forward the best way we can. We need to help new pen-turners (I still are one) move forward and find their way. So...use what you've got, do what you can, and stick with it!
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PSI has one that includes 40 kits...and a lathe.... for $609.95 I bought one a few years back when it was a lot less. Not that I have any argument against starter sets - but like many other things the word 'starter set' seems to mean different things to different people. My definition basic kit bundle with bushings. Next level kit bundle with bushings and drill bits. Next level kit bundle with bushings, drill bits and blanks. Next level kit bundle with bushings, drill bits, blanks and mandrell......by now you get the picture. Do they have a place, I'm sure they do.
 
I bought a starter kit from PSI, back in April, of 2009. It included a Turncrafterpro 10 inch Lathe, 5 slimline pen and pencil kits, 15 minute epoxy, precut and drilled blanks. It also came with a 7mm trimmer head. The only thing that I did not appreciate was the fact that the ad stated "This kit has everything needed to make 5 slimline pens and pencils", they forgot to mention that you will need a 60 degree live center, whether you use a mandrel or turn between centers. So be sure that if you buy a starter kit, you get a 60 degree live center. By the way I have upgraded to a Delta 46-46o 12&1/2 lathe. But I still have the Turncrafterpro, it has served me well, and I use itto do demos at chapter meetings.
 
What's been said in this thread so far is spot on. I've read more than a few posts from people expressing their regret over getting the starter kits, but there have also been some that liked them. The bad rap that "starter" kits get is that you end up paying for stuff you really don't need. Doing research and determining how best to meet your needs will give you a better informed end result.

What you need depends on what you already have. Like others said, do a lot of research before making the decision. Some places sell accessory kits for specific pens (WoodPenPro offers them in a variety of configurations). For example, you can but a Cigar kit, and then buy the accessory kit that contains the drill bit, bushings, and trimming sleeve/rod.

Firs determine what you have. Then, list what you think you may need (this part is always tricky as anyone who's ever worked sales can attest that many times customers will see a need where there is none).

I'm sure other people do it, but I think the accessory packages that WPP offers are not all that bad. They go from simple, to overboard depending on your needs.
 
Lots of good comments. Just wanted to throw in my experiences.

A small starter kit may not be a bad idea. I would NOT go for the ultimate one though. Too much stuff you may never use.

After getting your lathe, I would buy a roughing gouge and a skew and a sharpening system to start. The tools can be Benjamin's Best from PSI or from Harbor Freight. Learn to sharpen and use those tools. After a few tries, it becomes second nature. Once you learn the basics, then look into the carbide tools if you want. Reason is the standard lathe tools are more versatile and IMO give a better finish if kept sharp. Get into the habit of resharpening before every pen or two. If the hobby sticks, then you can upgrade to better quality tools.

Turn any chunk of wood you can find. If you drill a 1/4" hole in it you can mount it on a mandrel without tubes, or turn between centers if that is your preference. Turn it and finish it until you get the hang of it. You can use pine, scrap from the shop, firewood, or branches that came down from the last strom.


The sierra kits are nice and easy. Probably a good place to start. But, you should also consider the slimline kits. Why? They are cheap. They are customizable to a large degree. You can do a lot of different shapes and styles; add a stylus, take out the center band, make your own center band, make a one piece, etc. They get you thinking about form and design. They are also a nice size to give away which you will want to do after you turn a few.

Another argument in favor of the slimline kit, anytime I bought a mandrel, it came with a bunch of slimline bushings and a 7mm drill bit.

Just my $.02. As someone else mentioned there are a lot of ways to get into pen turning and none of them are "wrong".
 
Thanks for all the great replies. Kovalcik speaking of the turning wood, I had helped a neighbor clear some trees and he had given me some cherry logs 2 - 3 inches in diameter of varying lengths.
I wasn't sure if I could turn green wood or is it better to dry it?
I was going to seal the ends and leave it in shed

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks again, this forum has been awesome.
 
cseymour said:
Thanks for all the great replies. Kovalcik speaking of the turning wood, I had helped a neighbor clear some trees and he had given me some cherry logs 2 - 3 inches in diameter of varying lengths.
I wasn't sure if I could turn green wood or is it better to dry it?
I was going to seal the ends and leave it in shed

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks again, this forum has been awesome.
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What do you want to do with the wood? Sure you can turn green wood..........but read about it first. You still have to dry it (paper bag? Alcohol? Boiling? Microwave? etc, etc.) If you are planning on cutting the logs down for pens, paint the ends of the logs with latex paint, put in a shed an let it settle for a year. Or paint the ends with Anchorseal (places like Woodcraft, etc. sell it).
 
You can turn green wood. You get really long shavings. It is actually a lot of fun. It is common practice in bowl turning.Trouble is though, you have to dry it before finishing and it could warp or crack so not a good choice for pens. I would cut the wood into oversized blanks about 1 inch square and as long as possible. Coat the ends and let it dry. The smaller pieces will dry quicker than a big chunk, and if you get any warping or checking, you have some margin.
 
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