IPD_Mr
Member
From some of the first threads that I have ever read on here the same recommendation has been used over and over again. Brown paper bag and figure eights. In theory it sounds so good and make a lot of sense until you really getting the mechanics of what it is and what you are doing. I just got finished talking with one of who many people consider one of the top nib meisters in the country about this technique.
This is the gist of what was said.
Unclean! Don't do it. The paper is not about 12000 grit. A brown paper sack for lunch is much different than a paper sack for groceries. There are different grades of pulp as well as recycled materials and may or may not do anything except waste your time.
If you're going to smooth a nib, do it right: with controlled abrasives, a repeatable technique, and the intent to make it smooth for everyone.
Oh, and a figure-eight does not necessarily cover every curve that you can do to a nib -- much depends on the way you handle the pen when writing. There is a way to use figure-eights, but it involves a roll and swivel action that must be practiced until it's automatic."
Thank you Mr. Binder for your knowledge and experience.
Assuming that you have your nib properly tuned, meaning that the tines are aligned, your nib is positioned correctly to the feed and your slit is properly adjusted, you can begin to smooth the nib using the correct tools. 12000 grit Micro Mesh buff sticks is where you start. Do this with ink in your pen. The ink acts as a lubricant and helps to pull contaminants away from your nib tip and slit. Don't worry the ink will actually wash off of the Micro Mesh so that you can use it over and over. Start to draw small tight circles on the Micro Mesh rolling the nib as you do this. Don't forget to do the top of the tip as well. Many people do not realize this but your fountain pen should write upside down with the feed facing up. Writing this way gives you a much finer line and comes in useful when writing in ledgers or other confined areas. After you have smoothed the nib tip, there are two other abrasives that can be used to further your efforts. There is a film used for fiber optics. It is used to smooth the ends so that light can pass through the cables unimpeded. These sheets are aluminum oxide and are 1-micron and .03-micron. You will use the same steps as you did on the Micro Mesh. Once you are finished it would be a good idea to floss your nib. This is done with a brass sheet that is .002 thick. Do not try this with anything else. Some people have used razor blades and it can really screw up your feed if you cut into it. The brass is soft enough not to mar or overly spread your tines creating a flow problem.
This is a very condensed version of how to properly smooth your nibs. Working on your nibs CAN further damage them and make any situation you have worse. Start with your kit nibs and practice practice practice. You will be surprised when you get a kit nib to work well, and will be even more pleased with what you can get an upgrade nib to do.
If you find that you are going to attend a pen show that Mr. Binder is doing, see if he is offering his nib smoothing class and sign up early. It is well worth the time for the education that you receive. Fountain pens are a real joy when you are no longer intimidated by them. Today I rarely touch anything other than a fountain pen unless there isn't one handy and that is pretty rare.
This is the gist of what was said.
Unclean! Don't do it. The paper is not about 12000 grit. A brown paper sack for lunch is much different than a paper sack for groceries. There are different grades of pulp as well as recycled materials and may or may not do anything except waste your time.
If you're going to smooth a nib, do it right: with controlled abrasives, a repeatable technique, and the intent to make it smooth for everyone.
Oh, and a figure-eight does not necessarily cover every curve that you can do to a nib -- much depends on the way you handle the pen when writing. There is a way to use figure-eights, but it involves a roll and swivel action that must be practiced until it's automatic."
Thank you Mr. Binder for your knowledge and experience.
Assuming that you have your nib properly tuned, meaning that the tines are aligned, your nib is positioned correctly to the feed and your slit is properly adjusted, you can begin to smooth the nib using the correct tools. 12000 grit Micro Mesh buff sticks is where you start. Do this with ink in your pen. The ink acts as a lubricant and helps to pull contaminants away from your nib tip and slit. Don't worry the ink will actually wash off of the Micro Mesh so that you can use it over and over. Start to draw small tight circles on the Micro Mesh rolling the nib as you do this. Don't forget to do the top of the tip as well. Many people do not realize this but your fountain pen should write upside down with the feed facing up. Writing this way gives you a much finer line and comes in useful when writing in ledgers or other confined areas. After you have smoothed the nib tip, there are two other abrasives that can be used to further your efforts. There is a film used for fiber optics. It is used to smooth the ends so that light can pass through the cables unimpeded. These sheets are aluminum oxide and are 1-micron and .03-micron. You will use the same steps as you did on the Micro Mesh. Once you are finished it would be a good idea to floss your nib. This is done with a brass sheet that is .002 thick. Do not try this with anything else. Some people have used razor blades and it can really screw up your feed if you cut into it. The brass is soft enough not to mar or overly spread your tines creating a flow problem.
This is a very condensed version of how to properly smooth your nibs. Working on your nibs CAN further damage them and make any situation you have worse. Start with your kit nibs and practice practice practice. You will be surprised when you get a kit nib to work well, and will be even more pleased with what you can get an upgrade nib to do.
If you find that you are going to attend a pen show that Mr. Binder is doing, see if he is offering his nib smoothing class and sign up early. It is well worth the time for the education that you receive. Fountain pens are a real joy when you are no longer intimidated by them. Today I rarely touch anything other than a fountain pen unless there isn't one handy and that is pretty rare.
pen , Dayacom Nib, and tried it. It wrote right off the bat. Tried my demonstrator, Bock nib and it wrote right off the bat. Tried my first kitless, and it wrote right off the bat. Still just a tad wet but acceptable. These three pens had been setting in a mug for probably near a week, nib UP. Ya know! You ain't too bad a teacher either!!! :wink: I didn't really expect them to be that close. I was getting ready to tell Mom to cook up another pot of veggie soup, BUT! 
Oh Well! We can do that one evening, anyway!!! Again, THANKS! NearMiester! 