Sharpening Tools

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Scooley01

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College Station, Texas
I'm starting to become a lot less satisfied with my sharpening. I've been doing it freehand because that's all I have...I'm considering getting a jig.

Anyone familiar with the Wolverine jig? I know it's pretty popular and supposedly works well...I'm just wondering how much set-up is involved. I read the instructions for it online, and it mentions it being necessary to mount it (along with your grinder) so that they don't move in relation to each other...my shop space is very (Very very) limited, so I'm not sure what I would mount it to.
 
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I'd go along with the Wolverine, it's a great system and the extensions can be hung up when not in use. Although if your turning a wood thats hard on your tools, after sharpening a gouge leave the system still set and just return and give it a light sharpening and your ready to go again.
 
They also have their vid's on U tube I bought one set up and haven't gotten around to mounting it yet(woodchuck pen pro has put it to the back burner:wink:) what I was told it has to do with the proper height from the center line of the wheel axle to the base for the proper geometry for the jigs to hold the tools. You can have everything mount to the board and then that can be moved around the shop. The holders and the grinder remains in line and the proper distances, all the time.

They also suggest you remove the LRT's(little rubber thingie's) under the grinder and put them on the bottom of wood panel. To dampen the vibrations.

If you have a Woodcraft store near you I think most have it set up in the demo/class shop area. The local one has it so it can be moved on the mounting panel.
:clown:
 
Scooley01 said:
I'm starting to become a lot less satisfied with my sharpening. I've been doing it freehand because that's all I have...I'm considering getting a jig.

Anyone familiar with the Wolverine jig? I know it's pretty popular and supposedly works well...I'm just wondering how much set-up is involved. I read the instructions for it online, and it mentions it being necessary to mount it (along with your grinder) so that they don't move in relation to each other...my shop space is very (Very very) limited, so I'm not sure what I would mount it to.
Click to expand...

Best thing since sliced bread.

Lin.
 
I hear the jig is awesome, so I built my own out of wood and made one of capt. eddies (youtube) $2 sharpening rigs for my bowl gouges. I am happy with it all and it only took a couple hours, some scrap plywood and some hardware.
 
I have my Wolverine and grinder mounted to a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood, and I clamp it to my bench when I need to use it, and put it under the bench when I'm not.

It's great, btw. Especially with the skew and fingernail attachments! Although, now that I've started using a carbide tipped tool, it might not be getting as much use.
 
GoatRider said:
I have my Wolverine and grinder mounted to a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood, and I clamp it to my bench when I need to use it, and put it under the bench when I'm not.

It's great, btw. Especially with the skew and fingernail attachments! Although, now that I've started using a carbide tipped tool, it might not be getting as much use.
Click to expand...

If you decide to get rid of the fingernail jig, let me know. I'd like to have one!
 
Look at Tru-Grind. That's what I use. It clamps to the tool shaft so different length handles don't affect the angle. No change to the setup with different size gouges if using same angle. I use it for all my fingernail grind gouges. I sharpen most of the other tools freehand with or without the tool rest.
 
Pretty much the same way you bolt the grinder to a bench, with lag bolts. Only difference is you need to recess the bolts so they don't scrape on the benchtop. Pics worth 1k words:

EDIT: dang it, I can't get that first picture to rotate. Deal with it.
 

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glycerine said:
GoatRider said:
I have my Wolverine and grinder mounted to a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood, and I clamp it to my bench when I need to use it, and put it under the bench when I'm not.

It's great, btw. Especially with the skew and fingernail attachments! Although, now that I've started using a carbide tipped tool, it might not be getting as much use.
Click to expand...

If you decide to get rid of the fingernail jig, let me know. I'd like to have one!
Click to expand...

From my cold, dead fingers!
 
I have a wolverine I really love it. I have been tuning for more years than I want to admit. when I started no jigs were available messed up a lot learning to do it free hand. Mine is mounted to plywood mounted to a regular grinder pedestal. I have 3 lathes so instead of mounting on a bench it is kind of in the middle between them. This way I do not have take the arms out it just stays ready to go.
 
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I have Capt Eddies version of the Wolverine jig. You can't beat it. It makes sharpening a breeze. You don't have to think twice about touching up your tools. I would definitely recommend either the Wolverine or Capt Eddie's version.
 
I didnt want to mess with the grinding so I just got a Woodchuck insert tool and an Extra fine diamond card for sharpening.
A little WD and about 1 min on the card and Im set all over again....

I do have a Wolverine but havent set it up yet. I plan on using it whe I get into bowls but for pens.... Only the woodchuck..... for the past 4 years
 
In the mean time until I can order a jig, I do have two diamond plated sharpening cards from PSI (400 grit and 600 grit). Are those sufficient to keep a good edge on a roughing gouge and skew?
 
Scooley01 said:
In the mean time until I can order a jig, I do have two diamond plated sharpening cards from PSI (400 grit and 600 grit). Are those sufficient to keep a good edge on a roughing gouge and skew?
Click to expand...

I use a 1200 grit diamond card to hone my skew and roughing gouge between times on the grinder. Depending on the material, I'll do that 2 or 3 times per pen. Sometimes if I get a nick I'll go to 600. I keep doing that until the flats get too wide, then I put it back on the grinder to put the hollow back into it. That usually take about 5-10 pens before I go back to the grinder.
 
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Justturnin said:
I hear the jig is awesome, so I built my own out of wood and made one of capt. eddies (youtube) $2 sharpening rigs for my bowl gouges. I am happy with it all and it only took a couple hours, some scrap plywood and some hardware.
Click to expand...
do you have some plans on how you made it! would like to make one too....no funds to purchase!
 
Scooley01 said:
In the mean time until I can order a jig, I do have two diamond plated sharpening cards from PSI (400 grit and 600 grit). Are those sufficient to keep a good edge on a roughing gouge and skew?
Click to expand...


As goatrider mentioned sharpening cards are honing, and the wolerine is grinding. A good sharpening requires both.
 
GoatRider said:
Scooley01 said:
In the mean time until I can order a jig, I do have two diamond plated sharpening cards from PSI (400 grit and 600 grit). Are those sufficient to keep a good edge on a roughing gouge and skew?
Click to expand...

I use a 1200 grit diamond card to hone my skew and roughing gouge between times on the grinder. Depending on the material, I'll do that 2 or 3 times per pen. Sometimes if I get a nick I'll go to 600. I keep doing that until the flats get too wide, then I put it back on the grinder to put the hollow back into it. That usually take about 5-10 pens before I go back to the grinder.
Click to expand...

I don't know how to say this nicely but,you need to learn how to sharpen,hone and strop a skew.Honestly,if youe have to touch it up 2-3 times per pen then you aren't putting much of an edge on it.There is more to sharpening than keenness.I'm sure your honing is putting a shave ready edge on it(if not,you should be)but it has no durability because of the concave grinding.If the bevel is flat or slightly convex(I like a convex bevel)the longevity of the cutting edge is dramatically increased.

Regards, Dale
 
Mounting the jig

Scooley01 said:
And then you have to center each base under each wheel and bolt them similarly?

I'm not much of a DIY guy, despite being a turner, so excuse the questions!
Click to expand...

Mounting the Wolverine jig is pretty straight forward, the instructions include some nice drawings. The bases are centered on each wheel and aligned to front of the grinding wheel. You will need a square, ruler, pencil and a drill motor and drill bit for the bolts. The Wolverine jig replaces the factory issued tool rests on the grinder. You also need to check if you have sufficient clearance under the grinding wheel for base if you are using a 6" grinder. I drilled through the plywood and used nuts and bolts with washers and loack washers that won't vibrate loose.

I mounted the grinder and jig on a piece of 3/4" plywood that's mounted on a stand. I also mounted IKEA LED lamps next to the grinder to provide some extra light on the wheel and tool.
 
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