Bottle/corkscrew questions

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SCR0LL3R

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I am planning to start making bottle stoppers and I see a couple places that have these chrome bottle stopper/corkscrew combinations. Have any of you guys used these? How's the quality?

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/BS7.html

Also with bottle stoppers in general, are the chrome and black/gold titanium finished durable? I know they are on pens but this is a completely different environment. I see some are available in stainless steel which I would assume is safer but selection is very limited in stainless. Lastly, what kind of bottles do the mini stoppers fit on? Should I be making those as well?

Thanks for any advise you can give!
 
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I haven't used the specific kit you are asking about, but I have used PSI kits and have been pleased with the results.

The traditional wisdom associated with pen kit platings also applies to bottle stoppers. Obviously, stoppers don't get the handling that pens get, but they are exposed to alcohol. I have a cheap Chinese pen that I dipped in a glass of wine to capture a bit of floating cork, and subsequently the paint on the brass barrel of the pen softened and came off. I'm sure that the paint used on the pen was not the best, but this illustrates the point that alcohol can attack finishes.

But beyond the issue of wear, there is the matter of aesthetics. I don't especially care for chrome or gold plating - I think they tacky. I much prefer a black titanium. Also, I prefer a stopper design that minimized the amount of plated metal between the bottle and the stopper.

Recently, I've noted my my tastes have gravitated toward:
- stainless steel stoppers. I prefer the Ruth Niles design, but PSI is OK.
- recessing the top of the stopper into the turning. This hides the seam between metal and wood, and also further reduces the amount of exposed metal.
- avoiding metal stoppers altogether and using the silicone/dowel design. They are far less expensive (I don't sell stoppers, but I like to give them away), and there is no exposed metal at all.
 
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Can't speak for anyone else, but I've not had any problems with the chrome or stainless. Now on the other hand, the wood/silicone?? Buy a Helmet to wear at the table. :biggrin: This was seriously funny. While sitting at our youngest daughters dinner table with a "chilled" bottle of wine, being plugged with the wood/silicone, we heard a loud pop and saw something fly across the room. It was the "light weight" silicone and wood stopper. The wine had warmed a bit and the expansion of air inside the bottle blew the stopper OUT of the bottle. :eek: No it's not imagination, I hadn't drank that much wine YET! :smile-big: Although, I am not sure it was a standard size bottle neck!??? I guess that could be a factor, but I have not made any more of these to SELL!!
 
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I sell the T -handle corkscrew/stopper from PSI. Its a great stocking stuffer or what do I get Dad gift. I've been selling them for about 4 years and have not received any complaints on the plating. I use unusual woods or native woods that people cal relate to.
 
scotian12 said:
I sell the T -handle corkscrew/stopper from PSI. Its a great stocking stuffer or what do I get Dad gift. I've been selling them for about 4 years and have not received any complaints on the plating. I use unusual woods or native woods that people cal relate to.
Click to expand...

Ditto:

I sell these faster than I can make them. Beware if you make these with acrylic! The tabs must be sanded down and the end inserts must also have the diameter reduced. Otherwise the acrylic will crack during assembly.
 
I made a few when I was still in Houston and they sold well, but comments were usually that they were too tall for going into the 'fridge.... my comment in return was usually something like... unless it's a white wine, doesn't belong in 'fridge anyway... I've also heard comments that the wine can cause the chrome plating to pit and sometimes chip...not experienced it myself, but not taking chances either... I usually only make the stainless steel or one of the titanium metals when I do the metal stoppers. Mostly I do the silicones... they move well and I can sell them for a little less than the metals cones.
 
I've made and sold the t-handled stopper/corkscrew, but as an experienced wino, I found it more of a novelty than a useful tool. You can get a bottle of wine open with the corkscrew, but I think the traditional waiter corkscrew is much easier to use (and there are other fancy mechanism that are easier yet). Also, it works fine as a stopper, but I prefer the looks of the round/knob style stopper to the t-handle.

YMMV

-Barry
 
broitblat said:
I've made and sold the t-handled stopper/corkscrew, but as an experienced wino, I found it more of a novelty than a useful tool. You can get a bottle of wine open with the corkscrew, but I think the traditional waiter corkscrew is much easier to use (and there are other fancy mechanism that are easier yet). Also, it works fine as a stopper, but I prefer the looks of the round/knob style stopper to the t-handle.

YMMV

-Barry
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I always advertize my wine bottle stoppers as "the most useless thing I make"... once opened it's better to just finish the bottle... a day or two later it's mostly vinegar anyway... :biggrin::biggrin:
 
When I started to make bottle stoppers I sent 6 out to some of my friends in Cali that are wine drinkers. I sent 3 chrome and 3 stainless steel. With in two weeks I received an email that the chrome were starting to pit and the stainless were great. I haven't bought another chrome bottom since. If it was a gift to someone I didn't really care for I'd probably throw a chrome left over I have.. If I'm selling them for profit I'd use silicone or stainless.
 
bottle stoppers

Ruth Niles is the source for all stainless steel bottle stops the others buy from her. The chrome is not as stable as the stainless thus the lower price.


Dennis
Pine Lumber:bananen_smilies104:
 
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