Need help on clock

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texaswoodworker

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Oct 17, 2010
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Reno Texas
Hi, I am currently making a wall clock and was wondering if someone could give me some advice on how I should attach the glass the the wood door. I thought about just routing a grove into the middle of the edge of the boards and just sliding it in but I really don't want to do that because I'm afraid the glass would be a little loose or if it ever breaks, I would not beable to easily replace it. I have seen some glass doors where the glass is sitting in a small routed groove on the back of the door and was attached with some kind of rubber seal or something (not completly sure what it was but it was basically a strip of rubber). Does anyboddy know anything about this? Any help would be greatly appreciated and I will post some pics of the clock when it is done.:biggrin:

Thanks
 
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Use a rabbet whatever dimension works for your application. Then you can use glasiers points, quarter round or one of the many available trims to secure it. There are plastic and butyl type trims and seals to secure the glass. Some require additional maching.
 
Aaron, What Jim and Dozer said. I've done it several different ways. I always come back to "what if the glass breaks and has to be replaced.". The last few I made, I made just like you would a picture frame using the glasier points to hold the glass. I don't pin nail my 1/4 round, but use just a tiny dab of wood glue to hold it in place.The points hold the glass and the trim hides the points and makes for a cleaner project.
 
All of the above is correct. If you don't want it to "rattle",
you can add "space balls" (little rubber balls) under the bottom of the glass, in the routed channel. If there is room on the sides and top, do the same. Anything that can expand and contract a little to keep the glass from bouncing on the wood.

Not necessary, but quieter.
 
Thanks for the advice everyone, I'll go pick up some glazier pints and quarter round dowels tomarrow and I'll try the space balls to keep it from rattling.

Can't wait til its finished. I just put the case together so I have the trim and the door to finish. I got lucky when I ordered the oak for it and ended up with several boards of curly red oak so I think it will help give it a high class look. (have a little left over for some pens too:biggrin:)

Thanks again everybody.
 
texaswoodworker said:
Thanks for the advice everyone, I'll go pick up some glazier pints and quarter round dowels tomarrow and I'll try the space balls to keep it from rattling.

Can't wait til its finished. I just put the case together so I have the trim and the door to finish. I got lucky when I ordered the oak for it and ended up with several boards of curly red oak so I think it will help give it a high class look. (have a little left over for some pens too:biggrin:)

Thanks again everybody.
Click to expand...


Just would like to add some points. You do not mention what type clock this is and that would be helpful. You mention it is a wall clock, is this clock going to be placed where there is alot of vibration on the wall from doors slamming and such??? Is the clock door going to opened alot to wind the clock or for other reasons??? The reason I ask it probably is not necessary to use those space balls and such a small item.

Next to retain the glass in the door and do it so it looks professional and glazier points is not the answer there, is to install some sort of molding. You mentioned you seen clocks with a rubber molding and yes there are 2 types. One you just tack like any other 1/4 round molding and the other is installed by using a slot and this is machined into the rails and styles of the door before it is assembled. The other option is to use small wood molding and do a picture frame look to hold the glass in. All good ways and all work well. Here is the rubber molding I talked about.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2001075/10215/Retaining-Strip-Brown-10-Groove.aspx
 
jttheclockman said:
texaswoodworker said:
Thanks for the advice everyone, I'll go pick up some glazier pints and quarter round dowels tomarrow and I'll try the space balls to keep it from rattling.

Can't wait til its finished. I just put the case together so I have the trim and the door to finish. I got lucky when I ordered the oak for it and ended up with several boards of curly red oak so I think it will help give it a high class look. (have a little left over for some pens too:biggrin:)

Thanks again everybody.
Click to expand...


Just would like to add some points. You do not mention what type clock this is and that would be helpful. You mention it is a wall clock, is this clock going to be placed where there is alot of vibration on the wall from doors slamming and such??? Is the clock door going to opened alot to wind the clock or for other reasons??? The reason I ask it probably is not necessary to use those space balls and such a small item.

Next to retain the glass in the door and do it so it looks professional and glazier points is not the answer there, is to install some sort of molding. You mentioned you seen clocks with a rubber molding and yes there are 2 types. One you just tack like any other 1/4 round molding and the other is installed by using a slot and this is machined into the rails and styles of the door before it is assembled. The other option is to use small wood molding and do a picture frame look to hold the glass in. All good ways and all work well. Here is the rubber molding I talked about.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2001075/10215/Retaining-Strip-Brown-10-Groove.aspx
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what the correct term for this clock is so I'll just call it a grandfather style wall clock. No the door should not be opened very often, The mechanism uses a c battery so it does not require winding. I'm not to worried about the glass rattling. It probably won't be near any doors or anything that would make it rattle. I just like a tight fit on my projects:biggrin:.

Thanks for the advice on the molding. I'm really not too picky about how the glass is attached to the wood since no one will ever see it unless they open the door. That is exactly like the rubber molding I saw before.

I'm trying to decide between the glazie points and the molding now:confused:. Since the molding will give it a more professional look, I'll use it.:rolleyes:

I wonder if home depot has any and I wounder if brads that small will fit in my nail gun:confused::rolleyes:?

Guess I'll find out.:biggrin:

Thanks for the advice and the link.
 
Got a quick question about the rubber moulding, the description says to use #20 brass brads and then says that it doesn't have to be nailed or stapled. Whats going on here?
 
texaswoodworker said:
Got a quick question about the rubber moulding, the description says to use #20 brass brads and then says that it doesn't have to be nailed or stapled. Whats going on here?
Click to expand...

Ohio got it right. The photo shows the one that needs to be nailed. Look to the right and the other is a different number.

As far as what the clock is called will be determined when you show the photo. Could be a Regulator clock or even a Grandmother clock. Could be a Banjo clock if it has that Banjo look to it.

There are other ways to fasten the glass but if using brads be careful where you nailing. The wrong angle and you can figure out the rest. If I nail I drill my holes with a small bit and use small brads I nail with a hammer.

You can always use the points as someone mentioned and then run a bead of brown colored caulk and treat it as if it were glazing on a window. By the way caulking can also be used in place of those space balls. You won't get ratting though especially if you use a molding. Good luck and we look forward to the photos.
 
Last edited:
ed4copies said:
All of the above is correct. If you don't want it to "rattle",
you can add "space balls" (little rubber balls) under the bottom of the glass, in the routed channel. If there is room on the sides and top, do the same. Anything that can expand and contract a little to keep the glass from bouncing on the wood.

Not necessary, but quieter.
Click to expand...
Come on, Ed. Space balls? Really?

Ever heard of glazing compound? It's made to......secure glass panels firmly, securely and quietly.

SPACE BALLS.....Geez! Were you born on a dairy farm or something?

Tongue firmly planted in cheek:)
 
Ok, I'm back from the store. I couldn'd find any retaining strips so I'll make one. Are they just a plain flat piece of wood or is there something special about it? If that doesn't work, I'll use the points and some caulk to get the job done.

Thanks again
 
If you have a router, you could always make some quarter round out of the same wood that the frame is made from. Hold them in place with a small drop of silicon caulking at each end then if the glass ever breaks the strips will be removeable to install new glass.
 
Rick_G said:
If you have a router, you could always make some quarter round out of the same wood that the frame is made from. Hold them in place with a small drop of silicon caulking at each end then if the glass ever breaks the strips will be removeable to install new glass.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a try.

Now I have another question. I have some 1 1/4" hinges and was wondering wether I sould use 2, 3, or 4, of them to support the door. The door is about 9 3/4" x 17 3/4" so it will be a little heavy.
 
Thats what I was kind of thinking too. The hinges look and feel ike their strong so I'll use just three.

Well, I found out something today. I have NO skill when it comes to glass. I had bough a glass cutter and not only read the instructons on the back of the package but also watched several videos and still managed to completely destroy a sheet of glass.:biggrin: So I'm going to take the easy way out and just have a pro do it for me. Hopefull they'll do it cheap.

Thanks for the advice
 
To make quarter rounds I take a long board, surface both sides, and joint both edges, and run it over the router table on all 4 edges.

Sand all 4 corners to what you normally sand your work to.

With the board vertical against the saw fence I cut a the width and depth of the finished size I want, both edges.

Then without changing the saw setting, lay the board flat and cut the quarter free of the board, repeating 4 times. Use a push stick that will carry the board and stop past the blade at the same time.

Sand the sharp edges left by the saw.

You end up with a number of quarter round stock pieces that you can trim as needed for your projects. The larger board makes it easier and safer to handle than small stock. Always cut the long pieces first because they can be made into smaller ones if you make them too short.

With the corners all mitred I pre-drill holes for small brads and nail the stop to hold the glass. To replace the glass if broken, pry off the moulding with a thin blade, putty knife works nice. Replace the glass and reinstall the stop mouldings with new brads. I never use any goop to hold the stops in place.

 
texaswoodworker said:
Thats what I was kind of thinking too. The hinges look and feel ike their strong so I'll use just three.

Well, I found out something today. I have NO skill when it comes to glass. I had bough a glass cutter and not only read the instructons on the back of the package but also watched several videos and still managed to completely destroy a sheet of glass.:biggrin: So I'm going to take the easy way out and just have a pro do it for me. Hopefull they'll do it cheap.

Thanks for the advice
Click to expand...

The best glass cutters are the kind that are filled with oil. Once across the glass, tap, and snap. Quick, clean cuts.
 
DozerMite said:
texaswoodworker said:
Thats what I was kind of thinking too. The hinges look and feel ike their strong so I'll use just three.

Well, I found out something today. I have NO skill when it comes to glass. I had bough a glass cutter and not only read the instructons on the back of the package but also watched several videos and still managed to completely destroy a sheet of glass.:biggrin: So I'm going to take the easy way out and just have a pro do it for me. Hopefull they'll do it cheap.

Thanks for the advice
Click to expand...

The best glass cutters are the kind that are filled with oil. Once across the glass, tap, and snap. Quick, clean cuts.
Click to expand...

After I tapped, It cracked:biggrin:

My cutter is just one of those cheap ones with the wheel and the slotts for breaking the glass. The thing that really makes me mad is that after it broke, I began to wonder why it didn't work and when I tried it (the exact same way) on a large chunk of glass, It worked just fine.:mad: Oh well, Whats done is done. At least it was only a ten dollar mistake and not a more expensive one.:redface:
 
texaswoodworker said:
DozerMite said:
texaswoodworker said:
Thats what I was kind of thinking too. The hinges look and feel ike their strong so I'll use just three.

Well, I found out something today. I have NO skill when it comes to glass. I had bough a glass cutter and not only read the instructons on the back of the package but also watched several videos and still managed to completely destroy a sheet of glass.:biggrin: So I'm going to take the easy way out and just have a pro do it for me. Hopefull they'll do it cheap.

Thanks for the advice
Click to expand...

The best glass cutters are the kind that are filled with oil. Once across the glass, tap, and snap. Quick, clean cuts.
Click to expand...

After I tapped, It cracked:biggrin:

My cutter is just one of those cheap ones with the wheel and the slotts for breaking the glass. The thing that really makes me mad is that after it broke, I began to wonder why it didn't work and when I tried it (the exact same way) on a large chunk of glass, It worked just fine.:mad: Oh well, Whats done is done. At least it was only a ten dollar mistake and not a more expensive one.:redface:
Click to expand...


The word is carbide cutters. Works well and as mentioned oil is needed to keep the wheel spinning freely. Those cheep cutters are not good for too many cuts because they dull too fast. Pressure and oil for lubrication would have helped. Also you get one pass and no tapping, just snap.
 
IF you are using a large piece, one snap works.

IF the piece is very thin (like kaleidoscope mirrors), you can tap along the line to assist in creating a break.
 
jttheclockman said:
The word is carbide cutters. Works well and as mentioned oil is needed to keep the wheel spinning freely. Those cheep cutters are not good for too many cuts because they dull too fast. Pressure and oil for lubrication would have helped. Also you get one pass and no tapping, just snap.
Click to expand...

I'll see if hobby lobby has any.
 
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