CA Glue Finishers - Glued Bushings

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Rogersab1223

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Joined
Jun 22, 2011
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44
Location
Alexandria, VA
Hello everyone -

I've been finishing my pens with a friction polish (mylands) followed by Carnuba wax but have been growing increasingly interested in giving the CA/BLO finish a try.

I've read all the library documents, watched several youtube videos (which, likely just confused me more... everyone has their own technique!) and read some of the posts but still have a few questions.

I guess my first concern is gluing the bushings to the blank. Is this a problem? If so, how is it best avoided?

I'm sure I'll have more questions as I proceed so, as always, thanks for your help!

Andy
 
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I'm certain my following comment will draw some boos etc., so be it!

Forget everything you have ever read about BLO being compatible with CA.

CA only, in my opinion! I have never had a failure finishing a pen with CA only since I ditched my can of BLO!:smile:

Feel free to BOO starting now!:biggrin:
 
Another option for the bushing issue is to mount the blank between centers without any bushings. Just don't over tighten the tailstock as you may flair the tube.
 
I don't know where it is... But Russ Fairfield made a video of his CA finish. I think that would be a great place for someone new to the finish to start.

I'd already learned the CA finish, but after watching Russ' video I still learned much.
 
I've got to agree with the "no bushings" process. It eliminates the stuck bushings as well as chipping and lifted finishes at the ends of your finished pen when removing bushings. Plus the CA will "roll over the edges, sealing the ends of the blank.
 
So what do you use to hold the pen on the mandrel? Do you turn between centers?

You would take it off the mandrel and mount one barrel at a time between live and dead centers to do the finish. It is similar to turning between centers but without using any bushings.

Exactly! One barrel at a time mounted between centers. On average using thin CA (no BLO) I'm able to apply 10-12 coats, both barrels, in about 10 minutes.
YMMV
Mike
 
So what do you use to hold the pen on the mandrel? Do you turn between centers?

You would take it off the mandrel and mount one barrel at a time between live and dead centers to do the finish. It is similar to turning between centers but without using any bushings.
Another method is by using johnnycnc's Eliminator 805 bushings.
http://penturnersproducts.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_15

Here's a pic of them in action!
attachment.php
 

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JohnnyCNC is out of town for a few days, but his Eliminator Finish Bushings (shown in Mack's photo) are one of the best purchases I have made.
 
Haven't had a problem gluing the blank to the bushings, but I've glued the bushings to the mandrel! I finally clamped the bushing in a vise grip and dropped the end of the mandrel into a vise that was slightly open, so the rod was loose but the bushing with the visegrip was resting on the top of the vise, and drove the mandrel out with a hammer...sort of like disassembling a pen.
 
I wax mine with carnauba wax and have very little problem with the CA sticking. The CA lip gets a light sanding with the first micromesh pad to clean it up.
Otherwise the wooden cones Rick show work well, I made a set from ebony for turning kits I have no bushings for.
 
JohnnyCNC is out of town for a few days, but his Eliminator Finish Bushings (shown in Mack's photo) are one of the best purchases I have made.

These Eliminator Bushings are highly recommended.:wink:

I know what the CA is but what is the BLO. I am wanting to learn CA also.

BLO = Boiled Linseed Oil. There are two ways of applying CA, with or without the BLO. Both ways work fine.
 
Just as a follow-up... I used Russ Fairfield's "No BLO" version and am very happy with the results. Only had issue with one bushing getting stuck but, luckily, Russ addressed that and I was able to overcome.

Thanks for the help, guys.
 
I have tried putting paste wax on the bushings. This works for keeping the glue from sticking to the bushings but what I have now found to be my problem is that the glue extends past the blank and pulls away from the blank and/or chips on the end. What I am going to try next is using a 60 degree live center and a dead center which will leave a sizable lip at each end of the blank that will allow the end of the blank to be sealed and greatly reduce the chance of tear away and chipping. Just waiting for my dead center to arrive so I can try out this method.
 
stuck bushings

Whenever I've had a bushing stick a quick rap of the bushing against the metal lathe (not the wood of course :) has always loosened them right up. Just a flick of the wrist and poof its free. I do use wax before I finish too.

Krista GG
 
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