Glue

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

thostorey

Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2004
Messages
79
Location
Qualicum Beach, British Columbia, Canada.
I've been using 'Gorilla' glue all along gluing in the tubes and I've never had any sort of problem to date....but I seem to me in the minority in choosing this method. Many, maybe most, use epoxy or CA. I'm not tempted to switch but am I missing something?
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
If you haven't had any problems, I wouldn't worry about it. The arguments that I've heard against Gorilla Glue are that due to the glue's expanding properties, the tube may be pushed out of the blank while drying, and that Gorilla Glue can have bubbles that are visible through translucent acrylics.
 
Gorilla Glue is an expanding poly foam. It fills voids very well as it foams, but the foam is of questionable strength. In a wood blank, the foam can not be seen, however, it will not have the strength of say epoxy that has no foam. I have used CA, Gorilla and epoxy. CA will eventually set way too quick leaving the tube partially in the blank. Not good. Gorilla has the foam problem. Epoxy is messy and hard to clean off your hands if it gets on them and it will. Regular wood glues will not work well on the brass tube. DAMHIKT! Oh yes, CA will attach your fingers to the tube and the blank way faster than you can pull them away. Another advantage to CA. Almost any of the above glues will stick your arm to the table some faster than the other but all will do it. Don't ask about that either!
Charles
 
I use Gorilla glue for wood blanks. I believe it allows for some (probably very little) expansion/shrinkage of the wood blank to help avoid cracking.
 
I have used polyurethane glue for pens for a long time and have never had a problem of a tube coming loose or being pushed out by the foaming action. The only real problem I have found is the staining of your skin if you don't remove it immediately on contact.
I think (but I am willing to be corrected) the 'Foam of questionable strength' only occurs when it is free to expand as far as it wants, the glue in the glue joint where it cannot expand freely is very strong.
If you are worried by the thought of the tube being pushed out just put an elastic band round the ends of the blank to hold the tube in while the glue sets. :smile:
 
Been using Gorilla glue for two years with no problems. I have had one instance where the tube pushed in the blank. I use blue painter tape on the ends, quick, easy, comes off easy. I also wet the inside of the blank with a damp q-tip.
 
... CA will eventually set way too quick leaving the tube partially in the blank....
Thick CA will give you a good 60-90 seconds working time before it sets.

Manny, not to disagree but I use only your thick CA for tubes, plastics and wood and have never gotten anywhere near that much working time. As a matter of fact I've got a few blanks laying around with tubes sticking partially out of the blank! (you learn to be fast) Of course I'm here in the deep humid south. :biggrin:
 
Epoxy is messy and hard to clean off your hands if it gets on them and it will. Charles

I admit I am a newbe but having done 30-40 pens, I have only used epoxy and have never gotten it on me nor do I find it any more messy than any other glue. I mix it on a piece of cardboard with a thin strip of wood. Put my tube on an insertion tool and use the thin wood strip to apply the expoxy. Push it in the blank and wipe any excess off with a paper towel.
 
I use all three depending on the need - when I need quick I use CA, when I want to color the glue I use epoxy, if there are big gaps I use Gorilla. Most of the time, its 30 minute epoxy.
 
I use Gorillia as well as Sumo for the wood pens with no issues. I will use Monty's epoxy for most all acrylics or if i am in a hurry Med CA also from Monty.
 
I used to use Gorrilla glue but the humidity here is 110% in the summer and my bottle of glue kept hardening in the bottle rendering it useless. Other than that it works well.
 
Have tried all three and seem to do best with 5 min epoxy for tubes, especially if they are painted. However, no matter what I use, why do I have so many spots of residue on the belly area of all my T-shirts?? :confused::confused: I guess whatever works best for you. BTW my wife has offered me her aprons!!:embarrassed:
Gordon
 
I've been using 'Gorilla' glue all along gluing in the tubes and I've never had any sort of problem to date....but I seem to me in the minority in choosing this method. Many, maybe most, use epoxy or CA. I'm not tempted to switch but am I missing something?

Hi

I have also messed around with verious types of glue and have settled with the polyurathane foam glue. I feel it does a good job and I make quit a few pens. As everybody else I have thrown away blank with tubes halfway in which is very frustrating. Poly cleans up with mineral turps and wash hands after cleanup and you are done. I use the blackened fingers and hand parts as advertizing. When asked what I have been fixing ie cars, I then start talking about pens. Never lets me down. Thats my 2 cent worth. So to summerize, I have chucked away dozens of bottles of verious glues and now stick to polyurathane foam glue.

Thanks
Rog
 
poly glue

Having used poly glue for most of my pens, the only problem I,ve found is when using burrs (burls) and the glue makes its way through any open eyes. johnnie.
 
I use medium CA. Not really a problem with it getting on me. My workbench is a different story. It has it's on protective coating from my glue spot.
 
I know we are an instant gratification society but gee .... 5 minute epoxy sets up in ... what ? ... 5 minutes maybe? :rolleyes::smile: I usually wait 30 minutes.

I prefer to keep my CA glue for a finish on wood pens.
I will use gorrilla glue on occasion although I find it messier than epoxy.

Really, it's whatever works for YOU.
 
Gorilla glue can be dyed to make it less visible on all plastic blanks. With heavily cracked blanks I will do this with wood as well. A drop of black dye makes a crack much easier to work with if the glue expands into it. Same dye I use for casting works well. Never caused a failure to bond. Just do not add too much to impede setting. when in doubt try a small sample and test it later.
 
I do more than pens and tried Gorilla glue on other things and wasn't always happy so passed on it for pens. Besides that it started to harden before I had used half of it. Tried CA and had a couple tube stick part way in so went to 5 minute epoxy. I'm usually not in a hurry so have stuck with epoxy and used anything from 5 minute to 24 hour stuff with no problems. If I get any on my hands alcohol seems to clean it off if you get it soon enough.
 
Hi,

I am relatively new to pen turning, however my experience so far has been with CA and 5 minute epoxy. I started with the CA and found that every now and then I would get a blank that would stick with the tube hanging out. There was no reason I could find for this to happen, as the process I was using for each blank and tube was exactly the same, so all I could put it down to was the various different timbers and maybe the temp/humidity in my workshop at that time. The other issue I found using CA was getting on my hands, sticking to the tubes and the blanks and even when wearing latex gloves the CA would melt through them eventually again getting on your fingers and hands.
I have changed to using the 5 min epoxy and much happier with the gluing process, the handling and the end result being very strong. I also find that it appears to give a very good finish under those acrylics that are a little more transparent although if I think there's a chance of that happening I normally paint the inside of the blank before gluing in the tube.
So for me it's use the 5min epoxy.

Cheers
Tony.
 
I know we are an instant gratification society but gee .... 5 minute epoxy sets up in ... what ? ... 5 minutes maybe? :rolleyes::smile: I usually wait 30 minutes.

I prefer to keep my CA glue for a finish on wood pens.
I will use gorrilla glue on occasion although I find it messier than epoxy.

Really, it's whatever works for YOU.

Can't be said much better than that.

We went through the GG phase for a while. I am so much happier using epoxy. Much less stress on me and it is easy color the epoxy.
 
Back
Top Bottom