Boring Tools

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PaulDoug

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Mar 2, 2008
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Benton City, WA.
I like to turn thing in addition to pens, like boxes and bowls. I read an article on making boring tools and with some additional answers to questions I asked on Sawmill Creek I decided to give it a try. These tools really work great and hog out the wood. I have less than $20 invested and enough material left over to make a couple more with curved shanks. The shanks are 1/2" steel and the bits are 3/16" HS tool bits. The bits are easily to grind to any profile you like and easy to sharpen. I find that I also use them in spindle work.
 

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Paul,

I was thinking about doing the same thing. Can you post some links to the information that you used?

Tools look great by the way! Were they difficult to make?
 
Paul,

I was thinking about doing the same thing. Can you post some links to the information that you used?

Tools look great by the way! Were they difficult to make?

Well this is where I got the tutorial, but for some reason the pictures don't show up with it. It worked just the other day:

http://www.woodturnersamerica.org/i...-hollowing&catid=61:vaughn-mcmillan&Itemid=82
They are simple to make. I ordered the bits from monster tools. Bought the still rod and screws from Lowe's.
 
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Great looking tools and I have a bit of additional advice to make them better to avoid snags on the set screws.

My first set of tools was the same design, but since then, I was informed of 3/16" diameter tool steel. The same idea except the tool steel is silver soldered into the ends. I'm not sure where it can be purchased in the USA, but I know it is available in different diameters.

These were my first set of tools.

tools.jpg


Since then I have gone to solid tooling without the need for HSS cutters. Being from the farm and knowing how hard metals can be, I had these tools formed by a local blacksmith to meet my design. The only cost was for the blacksmith's time and that was $40 per tool. The tools are not round like most hollowing tools, there is a flat edge which rests on the tool rest. I find that the flat profile gives me a better idea of what position the cutter is in at all times. If I want to tilt or roll the tool at any time, it is easy enough to do so. The material is plow shear and it is hard! I had to do a lot of filing and sanding to get them as good as I did. The handles are designed on a concept that I saw in one of David Ellesworth's videos.

tool10.jpg


Here's the tool in action.

globe9.jpg


I don't mean to hijack the thread, I just thought this would make a great addition to it.
Dave
 
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