Unpacking and setting up Metal lathe

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aggromere

aggromere

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I guess I have worn you guys out asking quetions about metal lathes but I have a couple more.

My lathe is being delivered this afternoon. I've read everything I could find about setting one up and so forth, but just wanted a few tips.

What should I use to clean the packing grease? Kerosene? or something else. Also, once I clean it will I need to grease anything or is all the grease in bearings? I've never had to grease my jet mini, but I'm not sure about metal lathes. I'm gonna make a run to Lowes later today and pick up some kerosene (or what ever someone suggests) and just want to know if I need to pick up some kind of grease or oil for it.

Man I'm psyched. In a couple years when I figure out how to use it I will make some awesome pens, lol.
 
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Peter Kerosene will work, just be careful with it,
There actually is a special lubricant made for lathes, it's called Vactra #2 way oil I get mine from a local Mobile oil distributor, I'm not sure what lathe you are getting but it should have a number of oil points on it, these will look like little ball bearings coming up through the castings, there will be s couple on the saddle, and perhaps on the cross slide, also try and not blow the chips off with an air hose, this can push junk under the tail stock and cause alignment problems, There are several user groups on Yahoo, depending on which lathe you get. Most of the smaller lathes the Headstock/Spindle bearings are pre greased and it's not practical to try and lube them, , just keep the ways drive gears and lead screw clean and oiled, also keep the gear lash adjusted for quieter running, also the gears last longer. Have fun and get prepared to get Nasty from the shipping grease, In Lieu of finding Vactra locally which if you live in a large city should not be a problen, some nice soul at a machine shop might be persuaded to sell you a quart , it's about 15.00 a gallon, but it has special properties like moisture resistant and holds well to cast iron and steel.
 
Peter, how big a lathe is it?

When they delivered my Grizzly I had to rent an engine hoist to unload it and get it into my shop.
It took a day to clean and get set up.

Diesel fuel will work good as a cleaner and rust inhibitor.

The lathe is just a down payment on all the tooling and other accessory's you will be buying.
 
I got the little machine shop mini. It cost about $600.00, i spent another $800 on tools and such and it is costing almost $200 to have it delivered to my house with a lift gate. LOL. It will keep me off the streets for a while so I guess that's good. But I can't wait! cleaned up my workshop, resurfaced my work bench, painted it white and hung two additional flouresent lights under the cabinets.
 
Peter, Make sure that the lathe is level both ways cross the ways and along the bedways, ( after much degreasing, of course), I think you got the 7x14?? those a re a nice little lathe, there are times when I wish I had one of them instead of my Jet 9x20 but Level and parallel are an absolute must, I've had to do it on 17 x 72 Le Blonds that weigh about 3 tons, your's will be a wee bit easier, in Tampa you should be able to finda machine tool supplier easily if not try use-Enco very cheap prices an fast service, plus a large catalog and they send out monthly special fliers with good priced on measuring instruments and tooling,
 
What about brake cleaner in a spray can from the auto parts store? I use it all time to degrease all kinds of parts from cars, clean tools, etc.
 
WD40 will work for cleaning, so will mineral spirits -- a little less volatile than kerosene. Plan on using lots of those blue shop towels. Lubricate everything! I use lithium grease on the gears and Mobil One on everything else. Have fun!
Doug
 
SonOfMartin said:
What about brake cleaner in a spray can from the auto parts store?
Click to expand...
Brake cleaner may also clean the paint off the lathe.

You don't need anything near that aggressive. All you want is to soften the grease enough to wipe it off. There's no need to remove the oil completely, as you'll be lubricating it immediately anyway. Kerosene or Diesel Fuel works well.

Vactra 2 is a ways lubricant. It is formulated to protect from rust and stay in place even under high pressure. Your lathe might also have a gearbox reservoir. If so, the manual probably recommends Mobil DTE Heavy-Medium, which is a detergent-free circulating oil. If the lathe has additional daily lube points, they likely will take 10W light machine oil.

Regards,
Eric
 
Well i got the lathe unpacked and up on the workbench. Have gradually taken things about that I understand and given them a good cleaning with kerosene. I haven't found any of the Vactra lubricant or anything else for it so for now im just putting on a little good old 3 in 1 oil.

the lathe is really cool, but my suggestion would be, get a tool box just for the metal lathe and get the right chuck (i got a four jaw that is not self centering and its worthless to me so I ordered another one). I also got a quick change tool post set and it will be a long time before I figure out which tool to use so I could have waited on that. Ill post some pic's tomorrow.

but I have one more question. How do you turn something on the complete length, like you would a piece of wood in a wood lathe? Can it be done or does work always have to be chucked on the headstock?

Thanks for everyones help
 
Peter, one of the best additions to a small metal lathe for a pen turner is a collet chuck. There are 2 types, one fits in the MT3 spindle of your head stock, the other fits on the same way as your 3 or 4 jaw chuck. That's the type I would suggest you get, if you get the ER32 collet chuck and collets you can handle most pen turning tasks. The MT3 type chuck won't allow you to fit longer bars through the other type will.

There are several Ebay sellers selling these collets at reasonable prices.

Here are a couple of links

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2532&category=

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2231&category=

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2559&category=

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/19pcs-ER32-2...let-Chuck-/160471993842?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/18-PC-PRECIS...-0-0003-/140445236301?pt=BI_Tool_Work_Holding
 
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I bought this one:

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2228&category=-421559299

I didn't notice that they had a collet chuck you could drill through, maybe I can send the set I got back and get that chuck and some collets.

Although when I insert the collet into the chuck the threads on the lock nut willl not catch and I can't tighten it. Do you have to wack it with a hammer or something to seat it. The beall collet chuck I have for the wood lathe is very easy to get to lock down. Probably just me.
 
aggromere said:
Have gradually taken things about that I understand and given them a good cleaning with kerosene.
Click to expand...

The kerosene will allow rust to attack metal. Rust is the enemy of machine tools. After you clean the lathe you will need to wipe the lathe down immediately and about once a week with an oily rag. You want to leave behind a light oil film to prevent rust.

the metal lathe and get the right chuck (i got a four jaw that is not self centering and its worthless to me so I ordered another one). I also got a
Click to expand...

Metal lathes commonly use a non-centering 4 jaw chuck. This allows you to center the work in the jaws precisely. Only 3 jaw chucks are commonly scroll (centering) chucks. 4 jaw chucks can be more accurate than centering chucks.


but I have one more question. How do you turn something on the complete length, like you would a piece of wood in a wood lathe? Can it be done or does work always have to be chucked on the headstock?
Click to expand...

Yes, normally you would chuck the part in the headstock chuck and do whatever machining you need on the length, then cut off the stub, reverse and machine the stub end. The reason for the thru hole in the headstock of a metal lathe is to allow stock to protrude thru the headstock. Machine a part, cut off and extend the stock for the next part.

I'm starting to tackle threading. Threading is winning!:confused: <me puzzled!
 
aggromere said:
I didn't notice that they had a collet chuck you could drill through, maybe I can send the set I got back and get that chuck and some collets.
Click to expand...

The collet chuck style is common in Europe, not so much in USA.
This is the kind that will allow stock thru the center.
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2532&category=

I Looked for one I have from Chronos UK, but didn't find it.


Although when I insert the collet into the chuck the threads on the lock nut willl not catch and I can't tighten it. Do you have to wack it with a hammer or something to seat it. The beall collet chuck I have for the wood lathe is very easy to get to lock down. Probably just me.
Click to expand...


Peter; Gentle words of advice; The collet goes into the nut, and snaps into the retaining ring inside the nut. Then the nut screws onto the chuck body. Then put the stock into the collet.

Inside the nut is an off-set elongated ring. The groove in the collet snaps into the ring. Remove the nut from the chuck and push the collet sideways to release.

Hope this helps...
 
aggromere said:
I haven't found any of the Vactra lubricant or anything else for it so for now im just putting on a little good old 3 in 1 oil.
Click to expand...
3-in-1 is a good light tool oil, but you should find a heavier lubricant/protectant for the ways and gears. While Vactra and DTE are industry brand leaders, a generic ISO 68 hydraulic oil with rust preventative will suffice for light use. Don't use motor oil.

Regards,
Eric
 
there is a seller on Ebay that sells way oil and spindle oil just type way oil into the search bar. He will ship a pint of each, or more, it will last you a long time.
 
Thanks. I will post some pictures tomorrow. Thanks to Randy I was able to turn a small piece of faux ivory using the automatic feeding (whatever it is) of the tool. It is amazing. but it sure will be a long learn to figure out how to make it productive. A buddy is coming over this weekend to give me some tips. I think I will for sure be able to drill on it. It seems much more rigid than my jet mini. Everything locks down very tight and has no play at all. I ordered some acrylic rods of various diameters that I'm gonna play with tomorrow and see what I can mess up.

Again, you guys are awesome. I am so glad I found this web site. Almost everything I know about pen turning (which an't much) I learned here.
 
workinforwood said:
rjwolfe3 said:
I don't use mine as much as I thought I was going to but then I still don't know how to do much with it. The internet can only teach so much.
Click to expand...

You'll have to drive up north here one of those days and learn how to put it to use!
Click to expand...

I don't think you could get me to leave if I did that! Between what you know and what your wife knows, I could learn for months. Let's see - scrollsawing, intarsia, segmented blanks, casting, metal working, and coupons! I would be in heaven!
 
Peter,

There is a great site on the computer. It is mini-lathe.com. I have ordered a 7x12 Grizzly and have read everything I can find. This site will cover all bases from unpacking to adjusting. Which lathe did you get? I'd be interested in how you make out.

Ben Kelley
 
Well, I'm pretty much getting into it now. I have drilled some blanks on the metal lathe and I think they come out better than on the wood lathe.

I've had to order some additional items. I can't figure out the 4 jaw independently adjusted chuck and the small 3 jaw that came with the lathe doesn't seem to hold longer pieces well so I ordered a 6 jaw self centering chuck. also, my collet chuck I ordered doesn't allow work to pass through the spindle so I ordered the one suggested by bigshed.

I got a ton of questions, but I'll just start with one. "Is there any quick change way of attaching chucks to the faceplate or do you just have to fuss with the 3 nuts and bolts each time you change one out?
 
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