Chuck Question for Penturning

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Tullyamo

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Mar 13, 2010
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Last night I DESTROYED 3 blanks while using the drill press at a speed of 500ish. The bit was a 15/32 for the pen blank of a Statesman pen. The bit was very sharp. However, it spit wood out at me and ripped through the bloodwood blank. Ripped through as in the final result was WAY bigger then the tube for the blank. Even though it was the bit that was supposed to be used in for that tube. Having said that, here is the question.

I will be soon doing bowls. I will be soon getting a chuck for my Craftsman lathe. Can I drill the pen blanks with a chuck? Considering purchasing the Barracuda2 TN edition chuck system for doing bowls. It does have the spindle adapter to take my 3/4" 16tpi to the 1" 8tpi thread to fit the chuck. I will be converting away from my mandrel to the Between Center Movement. I have the other stuff I am needing. I was considering the purchase of the drill chucks either the dedicated drill chuck from PSI or the Collet System from PSI, but they don't seem to fit my needs as far as turning Majestic, Emperor, and Statesmen pen of the non Jr. type. I need 7/8" or bigger. This is what has lead me to the barracuda chuck system. I know this has been kinda windy and confusing to read, allergy season has started and I will continue not to make sense until winter comes again. I hope someone can read this and figure out what I am asking.... :frown:
 
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Tullyamo said:
Last night I DESTROYED 3 blanks while using the drill press at a speed of 500ish. The bit was a 15/32 for the pen blank of a Statesman pen. The bit was very sharp. However, it spit wood out at me and ripped through the bloodwood blank. Ripped through as in the final result was WAY bigger then the tube for the blank. Even though it was the bit that was supposed to be used in for that tube. Having said that, here is the question.
Click to expand...


Tully; Craft supplies has several variations of the Statesman pen. I never trust the instructions that come with the pen kit. I measure the tube with a caliper and match it with the same size drill bit. For a new kit, I drill a smaller hole and sneak up on the correct size, then write the correct size on the instructions. Acrylics need a slightly smaller drill bit, wood needs a slightly larger bit. I prefer a snug slip fit of the tube.


Roll the bit across a flat surface to verify it isn't bent. Sharp is relative. A Drill sharpener is a good idea. Either a Drill doctor or this one from General will do a good job:
http://www.generaltools.com/Products/Original-Drill-Grinding-Attachment__825.aspx


Last week I tossed a drill bit that drilled an oversize hole.

PS. I know this didn't answer your question, but that is all I have.
 
I use my 4 jaw chuck with NOVA soft jaws to hold blanks while i drill on the lathe. With a drill chuck and bit in the tailstock.

You can see pics of my process in the closed end tutorial in the 2010 folder of the library.

I drill all my pens on the lathe, and i dont own a collet chuck. Hope that helps!
 
randyrls said:
Tully; Craft supplies has several variations of the Statesman pen. I never trust the instructions that come with the pen kit. I measure the tube with a caliper and match it with the same size drill bit. For a new kit, I drill a smaller hole and sneak up on the correct size, then write the correct size on the instructions. Acrylics need a slightly smaller drill bit, wood needs a slightly larger bit. I prefer a snug slip fit of the tube.


Roll the bit across a flat surface to verify it isn't bent. Sharp is relative. A Drill sharpener is a good idea. Either a Drill doctor or this one from General will do a good job:
http://www.generaltools.com/Products/Original-Drill-Grinding-Attachment__825.aspx


Last week I tossed a drill bit that drilled an oversize hole.

PS. I know this didn't answer your question, but that is all I have.
Click to expand...




Thanks for the link! That is a sweet little jig!
 
Tullyamo said:
Last night I DESTROYED 3 blanks while using the drill press at a speed of 500ish. The bit was a 15/32 for the pen blank of a Statesman pen. The bit was very sharp. However, it spit wood out at me and ripped through the bloodwood blank. Ripped through as in the final result was WAY bigger then the tube for the blank. Even though it was the bit that was supposed to be used in for that tube. Having said that, here is the question.

I will be soon doing bowls. I will be soon getting a chuck for my Craftsman lathe. Can I drill the pen blanks with a chuck? Considering purchasing the Barracuda2 TN edition chuck system for doing bowls. It does have the spindle adapter to take my 3/4" 16tpi to the 1" 8tpi thread to fit the chuck. I will be converting away from my mandrel to the Between Center Movement. I have the other stuff I am needing. I was considering the purchase of the drill chucks either the dedicated drill chuck from PSI or the Collet System from PSI, but they don't seem to fit my needs as far as turning Majestic, Emperor, and Statesmen pen of the non Jr. type. I need 7/8" or bigger. This is what has lead me to the barracuda chuck system. I know this has been kinda windy and confusing to read, allergy season has started and I will continue not to make sense until winter comes again. I hope someone can read this and figure out what I am asking.... :frown:
Click to expand...

I'll take a shot at it.:smile:
Sounds like you want to try drilling your blanks on the lathe...
You will need a chuck of SOME sort to hold the blank on the headstock side.
You can use the Barracuda, no problem and it will do other things like bowls later. Easiest route right there with the most versatility.

Now, you need a way to hold drill bits in the tailstock, and a drill chuck is your answer. Available from many sources, I would go with 1/2" or 5/8" capacity.

And you don't have to have 7/8" blanks for the likes of an Emperor if you use a rounded blank and drill on the lathe. Your accuracy of keeping the drill centered will be overall much better than in a drill press. Use the largest bushing for a guide on how big the blank HAS to be. I allow at least 1/16" per side extra even when drilling on the lathe but you can get by with a bit less if you are careful!

So, did I help or am I lost?
 
Also to add to what everyone else has said. Yes to the 4 jaw chuck. Without looking I don't remember what comes with the Barracuda system you're looking at but if not included, you'll need a set of pin jaws to hold the blanks. Drilling on the lathe is, for me, a much better way to go. When you start segmenting blanks you'll be able to drill them dead center this way, which will be important in keeping the pattern true.
 
johnnycnc said:
I'll take a shot at it.:smile:
Sounds like you want to try drilling your blanks on the lathe...
You will need a chuck of SOME sort to hold the blank on the headstock side.
You can use the Barracuda, no problem and it will do other things like http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZJxdm380YYUS bowls later. Easiest route right there with the most versatility.

Now, you need a way to hold drill bits in the tailstock, and a drill chuck is your answer. Available from many sources, I would go with 1/2" or 5/8" capacity.

And you don't have to have 7/8" blanks for the likes of an Emperor if you use a rounded blank and drill on the lathe. Your accuracy of keeping the drill centered will be overall much better than in a drill press. Use the largest bushing for a guide on how big the blank HAS to be. I allow at least 1/16" per side extra even when drilling on the lathe but you can get by with a bit less if you are careful!

So, did I help or am I lost?
Click to expand...
Nailed it.

Especially about the lack of need for 7/8" blanks.





 
PaulDoug said:
Like the man said a 4 jaw chuck is best. You can hold a square blank in it.
Click to expand...

It's much better to round the blank between centers first . To drill a square blank it must be truly square or only 2 jaws will grab it tightly leaving the blank to wobble between the other 2 jaws . It can take as long or longer to square a blank correctly then to turn it round between centers and when you turn it round you have a mark dead center to center your drill bit .
 
I use a Nova midi chuck with the stock jaws to drill all of my blanks. If you want to, you can also round your blanks with the same chuck - put one end in the chuck and pull up the tail stock, round away and then switch ends.
 
I drill on the lathe, have been for a very long time. I have been toying with the idea of going back to the drill press to save set-up time between different types of turnings. I am thinking why can`t that hunk of a floor model DP sitting in the corner, cannot do what it is supposed to do and that is drill accurate holes. Would an XY DP vise do it ?. Carl
 
ldb2000 said:
It's much better to round the blank between centers first . To drill a square blank it must be truly square or only 2 jaws will grab it tightly leaving the blank to wobble between the other 2 jaws . It can take as long or longer to square a blank correctly then to turn it round between centers and when you turn it round you have a mark dead center to center your drill bit .
Click to expand...


Ok I t'ant gonna argue with the master, because I don't even come close to being the turner you are. I just wanted to point out that I put the edges of the blank between the gaps of the jaws. It actually grips the blank in 8 places. I do it all the time with great results. :smile:
 
so, if I were to invest in the barracuda2 ti edition, one would say that after I rounded my pens, I could then use the cuda to hold the blank in place while on my tailstock I have a drill chuck in place? Is there anythign I could put in the cuda to use a dead center while turnign the blank or do I need to take of the cuda and use the dead center first then back on with the cuda?
 
Tullyamo said:
Last night I DESTROYED 3 blanks while using the drill press at a speed of 500ish. The bit was a 15/32 for the pen blank of a Statesman pen. The bit was very sharp. However, it spit wood out at me and ripped through the bloodwood blank. Ripped through as in the final result was WAY bigger then the tube for the blank. Even though it was the bit that was supposed to be used in for that tube. Having said that, here is the question.

I will be soon doing bowls. I will be soon getting a chuck for my Craftsman lathe. Can I drill the pen blanks with a chuck? Considering purchasing the Barracuda2 TN edition chuck system for doing bowls. It does have the spindle adapter to take my 3/4" 16tpi to the 1" 8tpi thread to fit the chuck. I will be converting away from my mandrel to the Between Center Movement. I have the other stuff I am needing. I was considering the purchase of the drill chucks either the dedicated drill chuck from PSI or the Collet System from PSI, but they don't seem to fit my needs as far as turning Majestic, Emperor, and Statesmen pen of the non Jr. type. I need 7/8" or bigger. This is what has lead me to the barracuda chuck system. I know this has been kinda windy and confusing to read, allergy season has started and I will continue not to make sense until winter comes again. I hope someone can read this and figure out what I am asking.... :frown:
Click to expand...

Drilling blanks on the lathe won't replace your drill press as it is used for many other things that can't be drilled on a lathe. Sounds to me like you have a runout problem on the drill press. Either your bits are warped or your quill is not perpendicular to the table. Check your drill bits for straightness. Then check the drill press runout and alignment of table and quill. That may help you identify what is causing your drill bits to wobble in the blank causing a larger hole than the drill bit size.
:wink::wink::wink:
 
I have found this tutorial today, as a result of stomping around the site that had the table saw sled from the dankc98 thread today. I think it has merit----what is everybodies opinion?
http://www.davidreedsmith.com/Articles/AuxPenJaws/auxiliary_pen_blank_jaws.htm


As to second Bree's suggestion, I have a Rockler DP table which is great, but does slip a bit over time. About once a month I use a Wixey to calibrate to be purpendicular. I have never found it off much, but sometimes a little.
Mike aka: Moke
 
ok, let me add in a couple of cents here, for what it's worth. I drill all my blanks on the lathe with a psi chuck and it works great. However, even with my jet mini, i do still get a little bit of flex and wandering, especially if I'm drilling a wood/acrylic blank or wood that has a high hardness differential. ie a hartwood/sapwood blank, ect. The lathe method is intrinsically more accurate than the drill press, but still subject to errors and cumulative runnout. Now you mention a 3/4x16 spindle, which is standard on some small, low cost lathes that tend to have looser tolerances for alignment, runout and flex between the tailstock and headstock. Not that all lathes with smaller spindles are that way, but some are. So.... don't expect magic, there are still areas that might cause problems, and drilling on a lathe will NOT compensate for dull, poorly sharpened or just downright funky drill bits. So, do some experimentation with trial blanks and learn what you can expect, but it should be an improvement.

PS, speed can be an issue, and is not cast in stone either, play around with it too.

James
 
One other thing about drilling on your DP. Even if your drill bit is sharp and everything is square you have to remove the drill bit to allow the bits to be ejected otherwise it cause too much internal pressure and the bits gets skewed and it can explode from the pressure. You also have to have something underneath the blank to keep it from blowing out when the bit exits the blank. I drill blanks both on the DP and on my lathe depending on what I am doing and whether or not I want to put the chuck on the lathe, etc. And not matter what you do or on what tool you do there is always going to be a blank that explodes or freezes on the bit or just isn't right for some reason. I just figure it is a sacrifice to the penmaking gods. Just like the bowls that break or anything else. Yesterday I blew up a beautiful little box right at the end of turning it and then blew up a lovely little mushroom as I was finishing it's edge. Just had to do one morre little thing and BAMMM!
 
jskeen said:
ok, let me add in a couple of cents here, for what it's worth. I drill all my blanks on the lathe with a psi chuck and it works great. However, even with my jet mini, i do still get a little bit of flex and wandering, especially if I'm drilling a wood/acrylic blank or wood that has a high hardness differential. ie a hartwood/sapwood blank, ect. The lathe method is intrinsically more accurate than the drill press, but still subject to errors and cumulative runnout. Now you mention a 3/4x16 spindle, which is standard on some small, low cost lathes that tend to have looser tolerances for alignment, runout and flex between the tailstock and headstock. Not that all lathes with smaller spindles are that way, but some are. So.... don't expect magic, there are still areas that might cause problems, and drilling on a lathe will NOT compensate for dull, poorly sharpened or just downright funky drill bits. So, do some experimentation with trial blanks and learn what you can expect, but it should be an improvement.

PS, speed can be an issue, and is not cast in stone either, play around with it too.

James
Click to expand...


I do just as James and agree with all he wrote.
 
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