Chatham PenWorks
Member
After seeing pics of some of the styli guys have made, and reading some of the issues some have had, I finally had a chance to give it a try. I went a different route though, using just the CSUSA components, a slimline clip, and a short blank. No tubes.
I drilled a 1/4" hole about 1 1/2" deep, and stuffed the appropriate transfer punch in the hole. The punch fit tight enough that I had concerns about being able to get it back out, but a simple twist did the trick when it was finished. I mounted the punch in a collet chuck, used the tailstock for support, and turned away. You need calipers to check size, as the bushings don't fit on the punch.
Once done turning, the "nib" was a snug fit in the hole. I slipped the clip over the nib, put a little glue in the hole, and pressed 'em together. I also used a little glue to secure the rubber tip.
As long as you're touching the tip or clip, which is hard not to do, it works perfectly. What I like about this method is the simplicity. Ditching the tube does away with reverse painting on all but the most transparent blanks. No tube, left a lot of material at the nib, and the fit posed no cracking problems. Only the nib end needs to be sized to match a component. The other is closed, and styled however you like.
It's late, so I hope this made sense. I also hope this helps somebody. I'll try to take a couple pics tomorrow. Feel free to ask any questions you might have.
I drilled a 1/4" hole about 1 1/2" deep, and stuffed the appropriate transfer punch in the hole. The punch fit tight enough that I had concerns about being able to get it back out, but a simple twist did the trick when it was finished. I mounted the punch in a collet chuck, used the tailstock for support, and turned away. You need calipers to check size, as the bushings don't fit on the punch.
Once done turning, the "nib" was a snug fit in the hole. I slipped the clip over the nib, put a little glue in the hole, and pressed 'em together. I also used a little glue to secure the rubber tip.
As long as you're touching the tip or clip, which is hard not to do, it works perfectly. What I like about this method is the simplicity. Ditching the tube does away with reverse painting on all but the most transparent blanks. No tube, left a lot of material at the nib, and the fit posed no cracking problems. Only the nib end needs to be sized to match a component. The other is closed, and styled however you like.
It's late, so I hope this made sense. I also hope this helps somebody. I'll try to take a couple pics tomorrow. Feel free to ask any questions you might have.
Last edited:
