Spinning some metal

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holmqer

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I saw a demo of it at Totally Turning in Saratoga Springs. The demonstrator was a full time metal spinner for 20+ years. While the demonstrator was fast and efficient at making stuff, it did strike me that it would take a while to master the craft. There was a real art to how he would pull and push the metal to avoid ripples and tears.
 

Chrisjan

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Mar 23, 2012
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Well I just got back from my brother-in-law where I picked up a piece of good stainless steel rod (16mm) to make myself a 'spoon' before trying to spin some galvanized plate and brass... Sad to say... the copper I had, didn't quite make it...
 

Chrisjan

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Can you please tell me more about the contents of the package - I thought of ordering but shipping to South Africa this time of year is probably not a good idea.
 

holmqer

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I just re-read my post, and realize I was ambiguous. the demo I saw was not of the PSI package, the professional spinner brought his standard tools that he would use on a 5HP lathe designed for spinning, not the PSI kit. He used them on a full size wood lathe (Jet 1642 if I remember right)
 

juteck

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Dec 10, 2008
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Charlotte, NC
I've seen it demo'd one time, on a big OneWay. He really leaned into the tooling, so I expect a mini lathe on it's rubber feet on a workbench would be difficult to accomplish metal spinning. I'd think this is one where you want a solid foundation and some extra weight added to your bench would benefit you. I'm not sure what kind of HP you need either, but probably another case where more is better. Although, I'm sure PSI's kit would be suited for smaller spinnings to be done on mini/midi lathe setups. I have not looked at PSI's setup to know otherwise.

It's definitely a practice thing to spin the metal to learn how the metal moves and rolls, and how to avoid the see-through thin spots. You will also need to think about your forms when you start making items that close over on themselves, like a vase -- you need to think how to get the form out, and build your form like a jigsaw puzzle to do it. Building the forms looks like it would be a craft in itself. Your tools need to be well maintained, keeping the mirror polish blemish free on each of the "spoons" or "burnishers".

That said, he made some great looking pieces - some were stand alone metal items, and others were used to compliment other wood turnings.

If you decide to take the plunge, it sure will be nice to see photos of your progress.
 
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bradh

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Mar 9, 2005
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Aurora, Ontario, Canada.
I worked at a place that did metal spinning about 25 years ago. One of the key tricks to getting it to work is the correct steel. Most steels will not spin if you are moving the material beyond a platter shape. You need special low carbon steels to avoid cracks and breaks. For stainless we used 304L, plain 304 would not work. For regular steels, 1008, 1006 or better 1004 will work well, standard 1008/1010 commercial quality CR steel did not work for spinning. These low-carbon steels are hard to find and expensive when you find them.
 

Chrisjan

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Pretoria, South Africa
OK - I don't think my spoon is smooth enough yet. I have a 750W lathe - that's 1 horsepower and I still force it to a standstill... Wondering if the label is really correct... Trying to post pics...

I'll polish the tool and try to anneal the material first before I give it another bash this afternoon.
 

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sbarton22

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Sep 7, 2011
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WOW...I had no idea that could happen. With the way they sell it, it seems easy as pie. I would go insane if that is what the learning curve looks like.

You have sold me on a branch of turning that I am NOT going down.
 

Dalecamino

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I made a copper ash tray for my dad in high school.:biggrin: But, don't remember if it was in wood shop or metal shop.:redface: I don't think I want to take on anymore expenses now though. Have fun with it.
 

Goofy

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Feb 22, 2009
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Swanton, Ohio
Safety an must

I just want to caution everyone doing this that is way more dangerous than it appears. Always wear a full face shield. By Brother in law was a spinner by trade. Peeled a edge off and it came lose slicing his face from below his left eye to his lower right jowel, crossing under his nose and slicing his upper lip. This type of work isnt for the careless or faint of heart. Its not if you'll get hurt, Its when. I thing that PSI isn't taking it seriously enough.:eek:
 

Chrisjan

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Pretoria, South Africa
Okay... had the first piece of metal come flying out and luckily it had missed me and the missus' car behind me... At least one can see ahead of time that things are going pear-shape in the wrong direction. I just got out of the way and didn't even think about the stop button on the other side of that whirling piece of metal...

OK to sum up:
1. I polished my burnisher to a shine - good grade stainless @16 mm diameter and over 800 mm long. Just a bullet point. Haven't turned a handle for it yet... 16 mm rod good enough to see if its worth it or not.

2. Beeswax is not a good lube - a bar of green Sunlight soap is better, Beeswax tends to be sticky and packs up shavings on the burnisher.

3. Your T-rest arm my not be the best fulcrum point - it comes loose at critical times - make a dedicated bolt-on fulcrum stand with holes and adjust the pins as needed. Still have to decide whether I'm going to go through all the trouble...

4. Any metal can be spun with enough force - but it can tear and split too! Get draw grade metal or anneal the pieces you want to spin first! Maybe I started with too thick a gauge - close to a millimeter - will pick up a sheet of 0.5 mm grade 1050 Aluminium today and try again

I have to master it at some point I guess
 
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