With the exception of some recent metal to metal joints ( now trying brazing) I use CA exclusively for all differing materials.
Sure, you need to take a bit of care, but hey....
I think just a little prior thought can prevent the joints being seperated during turning. The object of course is to remove material by turning in such a manner that the joint ALWAYS offers more resistance to breaking than the effort required by the tool to remove material.
There are many ways to help this, but the most common ones are the old nugget 'sharp tools' ( does anyone actually use dull tools??
) and fine feed. Fine feed is easier to achieve with faster speed.
It is easy to control on a metal lathe, but not too difficult on a wood lathe with a little practice.
Most failures happen before the segmented blank is round. Tools catching corners can be difficult. But you can help here too. First, trim it down a bit with whatever method you want.....bandsaw, hacksaw, file, whatever.
Then re-inforce the
outside of the blank with shavings and more CA ( Thanks Eagle).
Look here for
an example of a recent scalloped pen of mine that shows the unturned blank a few post down.
As soon as it gets to the round(ish) stage, I drill the holes. Then CA the tube in, then turn it down. :wink:
Aluminium ( soda cans ) is notoriously difficult to join. But leaving the printed surface on helps it stick ( thanks again Eagle) Degrease your fingerprints off all metal before CA'ing:wink:
One last edit; I know people swear by epoxy, but I don't have the patience ( or time )to wait for it to cure and I found that I wasted tons of the stuff which made it a lot more expensive than CA:biggrin: