Scroll Saw Melting Acrylic

[Simplex]

I bought a scroll saw not too long ago so that I could do more intricate/detailed cutting for the pens I am making. However, I am finding that the standard 3/4" x 3/4" acrylic blanks melt along the cut line making it difficult to separate the two pieces and as well as eliminating all hope of creating a flat surface when the cut is complete. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, what recommendations do you have to avoid the melting? Thanks everyone!

 

[oxx44]

i have this exact same issue. Unfortunately i dont have a solution for you cause I use my mitre saw to cut my blanks. I do need to be careful cause I lose more material this way. Hopefully some one here has a solution cause when I get my scroll saw back I would like to use it for my blanks again.

 

[seawolf]

This is just somthing I read somewhere, scribe in the cut lines with a sharp tool put a drop of baby oil in the scribe lines. This is suposed to lube the blade and help carry away the saw dust.
Mark

 

[workinforwood]

works good for me to not use those types of acrylic blanks. Probably mostly acrylic acetate is what you are buying. PR blanks can be a real bugger too, as can off brand corian pieces. Slow down the speed of you saw, and that will help a little to reduce the melting. Some plastics cut real nice, and some just melt. Alumilite scrolls like a champ.

 

[DurocShark]

This is just somthing I read somewhere, scribe in the cut lines with a sharp tool put a drop of baby oil in the scribe lines. This is suposed to lube the blade and help carry away the saw dust.
Mark

This works.

 

[Rangertrek]

I have had some sucess with a metal cutting scroll blade, or a blade with fewer teeth pe inch, and use a slow speed.

Have not tried the baby oil, but, I will.:wink:

 

[termitepenman]

I have a Shopsmith bandsaw and have found that slowing the speed down will eliminate melting of acrylic and resin pen blanks.
___________________________________________________________________________
Dennis
Sacramento, CA

 

[Simplex]

Thanks for all the advice. I will definately try the scoring plus baby oil. I have dropped the speed down to the minimum but the effect seems to be minimal (maybe the type of blade is a factor as well). I'll keep you posted on how it works...sounds like others would like to know as well.

 

[All Thumbs]

I'm a long time scroller. First you need a variable speed saw set on it's slowest speed. Next place a single layer of clear packing tape on the top of your blank. Next cut with the largest crown tooth blade you can find.
If your saw is a two or three speed saw it won't slow down enough to cut plastics.

 

[Simplex]

I'm a long time scroller. First you need a variable speed saw set on it's slowest speed. .

I have a variable speed that goes down to 500 SPM. Will that speed suffice?

 

[DurocShark]

Wait, are we talking scroll saw or bandsaw? The oil works on scroll saw cuts. I don't know about a bandsaw. I've cut lots on a bandsaw and never had a problem, even with a tired blade.

 

[Upstate_Turner]

Try a regular bar of soap to lubricate the blade. I have to soap the blades at work (boat builder) when cutting aluminum, or the blades will gum up and dull. Soap is cheap and it works.

 

[All Thumbs]

yes it will. Crown tooth blades are a must.

 

[ROOKIETURNER]

The problem with a scroll saw is that it cuts in only one direction. The up stroke is just friction. I would suggest a different method of cutting. I also wouldn't want oil on my blade if I planned on cutting porous wood with it.

 

[PenMan1]

I use "shipping tape" over the top of the acrylic. That and the lowest speed on your scroll saw will help. Additionaly, the blade selection makes a BIG difference. Still acrylic acetate is still a bear to saw.

I've never tried or heard of baby oil, but I think I'll try it when scrolling PR. If nothing else, it will smell better!

 

[ldb2000]

I've had good results with the Flying Dutchman SR No 9 skip tooth reverse blades 8 tpi and a slow speed cutting ABS plastic . I had some 6 tpi blades like them and they worked great but I can't remember where I got them . They clear the kerf fast enough that the plastic don't fill the kerf and solidify but that was with 1/8" ABS , they should help with thicker plastics as well though . I've never tried the oil but it would help .