Schmidt Cartridge Rollerball

[IPD_Mrs]

Sorry watching the Colts game....
They look the same, just that the label they put on the baggie on the new ones says Artisan on them. I haven't had a chance to make any yet as I am preparing blanks.

 

[alphageek]

Sorry watching the Colts game....
They look the same, just that the label they put on the baggie on the new ones says Artisan on them. I haven't had a chance to make any yet as I am preparing blanks.

Then without any more information, the guess that I would have is that CSUSA is that they are no different (I've seen no major chances in 3 years in the Gent or Statesmen based on the ones that I have that are new and older)... But I guess the proof would still be to compare the FP nib holder in the old and the new with the other part. If you think the part is different, show some pics..

 

[KenV]

Dean -- I am adding a couple of photos

One is the Baron with the nib unit installed - I did not install the trim ring yesterday.

2nd picture shows a second nib unit with the trim ring from the Fountain Pen nib installed. It was a tight fit, but installed with finger pressure. The small flange on teh nib unit is visibile in the 1st photo, and acts as a stop with the trim ring installed.

When we change ink, I will move the trim ring over but having made one or two spreading messes with ink, and packing to get the ferry, I will pass on the opportunity this time.


Still write like a dream --


Changes in Mfg processes --- I had a rumor that CUSA was moving some of the mfg processes to plants on mainland China from Tiawan.

Mike -- if you have a 6.4 tap, would you see if you can chase the threads on the older version and the newer ones??? I am looking for data points.

 

[Russianwolf]

admittedly it looks better on the Baron than Jrs as the black threads balance the black tip.

 

[alphageek]

admittedly it looks better on the Baron than Jrs as the black threads balance the black tip.

In general, I don't like the black threads, but I agree with you this looks pretty good.

Ken, any chance for a comparison photo of the stock fp nib holder with the new roller ball nib?

At a minimum, I have to get my hands on a baron fp to play with.

 

[glycerine]

I believe that CSUSA's artisan jr gents are the same as what the jr. gent has been the last few years. They introduced the apprentice jr gent that is more like the baron, navigator, tycoon, etc. and I believe they just added the artisan title to the regular ones to distinguish them from the cheaper apprentice ones... if that makes sense.

 

[IPD_Mrs]

I believe that CSUSA's artisan jr gents are the same as what the jr. gent has been the last few years. They introduced the apprentice jr gent that is more like the baron, navigator, tycoon, etc. and I believe they just added the artisan title to the regular ones to distinguish them from the cheaper apprentice ones... if that makes sense.

Jeremy that does makes sense and is what I was thinking. I was hoping that someone that deals with CSUSA closely would have confirmation of this. The apprentice version is very close to the Jr. Gent I from what I have been told.

 

[MesquiteMan]

I have been told the Jr. Gent apprentice is the SAME as the Jr. Gent I

 

[MesquiteMan]

Just went a took a look a believe what I said above is true. At least one this is absolutely certain, the Jr. Gent Apprentice IS NOT the same kit as a Jr. Gent II

Jr. Gent Apprentice:

• 5 1/8" long finished
• 5/8" diameter finished
• 25/64 and 15/32 drill bits

BTW, all the measurements above are the same as the Barron, etc.

Jr. Gent II

• 5 1/4" long finished
• 9/16" diameter finished
• 12.5mm and 10.5mm drill bits

 

[alphageek]

To be clear... My review was of the Jr Gent II (clearly listed in the review)... Based on the above info, this might be called the "artisan" currently, but not the apprentice. I've never done a baron FP nor an apprentice.

 

[KenV]

Additional Baron Photos

Dean - I was not sure what you were asking for in the additional photos -

I checked and this was the last Baron FP I had in stock. Lots of rollerball versions

one photo has the pieces aligned -- nib replacement with the trim ring from the fountainpen nib installed (I hands are ink stained of course, but nothing worse)

The Baron front end for fountain pen - round metal -- for roller balls this is a faceted piece

Baron Body -- same for FP and RB - change the tip and change the form

Cap for the pen


2nd photo is the assembled pen with the trim ring from the FP nib installed


I am headed to the Desert Woodturners Roundup and think I will take this one and the desk base along for the Gallery -- should generate some discussion (presumes I can get if from my spouse.

P.S. The ink cartridge is down about 1/4 to 1/3 of the length at this point - so not a huge amount of ink to start this working.

 

[alphageek]

Dean - I was not sure what you were asking for in the additional photos -

Ken,

What I'd like to see a picture of is the stock nib holder (the piece you are no longer using with the FP nib) along side the replacement rollerball nib. Something like my first picture, except with the baron part.

 

[IPD_Mrs]

Mike -- if you have a 6.4 tap, would you see if you can chase the threads on the older version and the newer ones??? I am looking for data points.

Ken -- I just ran the M6.4 x.5 tap in a new Jr Gent II black Ti nib holder. Like you I did this by hand. Actually I ran it through twice because I couldn't believe how easy it was. I did this over a white piece of paper which I tapped the nib holder on after I chased the threads. The shavings were hardly noticeable if you could even call them that, more like specks. There were two spots in the veins of the tap. About the size of the tip of a straight pin not the head. The cartridge screwed in like a dream and seated all the way down to the ring on the cartridge. The threads were perfect other than some silver dust from the plating due to the chasing of the threads. I will provide some photos late tonight. I will even leave the silver dust on the threads in the photo. Right now we have to get ready for my Grandmother's 99th birthday dinner. :cake:

 

[KenV]

Dean -- on the Baron Fountainpen that is the only nib holder -- the replacement for that for the roller ball has the nib tip formed with it all in one --

the only thing I did not show is the fountainpen nib assembly (but I was pretty sure you have seen those). If it is value added, will put the nib assembly that thread into the Plat plated tube and take another picture.

With the Baron - other than chase threads - I unscrew the nib assembly and screw in the replacement ball assembly.

See both side by side at

http://www.arizonasilhouette.com/Berea_Hardwoods_Pen_Kit_Images.htm

The Baron replaces the whole lower unit when changing from FP to RB. And they are different shape.

 

[KenV]

Mike -- I am getting a glimmering that there may be some rough threads of plating with the Jr Gent lower unit on older stock. The presence of some tight tolerances will give similar performance. Either would explain some the differences in observations on effects on some of the threading.

I will wait to run a sample of newer stock to see if there is a thread change. Sounds like your older stock was 6.4 by .5 or very very close. If the thread size/pitch has migrated, that will be a better explanation of what some say they are seeing.

Should be a good discussion topic at the Desert Woodturners Roundup session on pen turning on Friday evening.

 

[alphageek]

Dean -- on the Baron Fountainpen that is the only nib holder -- the replacement for that for the roller ball has the nib tip formed with it all in one --

the only thing I did not show is the fountainpen nib assembly (but I was pretty sure you have seen those). If it is value added, will put the nib assembly that thread into the Plat plated tube and take another picture.

With the Baron - other than chase threads - I unscrew the nib assembly and screw in the replacement ball assembly.

See both side by side at

http://www.arizonasilhouette.com/Berea_Hardwoods_Pen_Kit_Images.htm

The Baron replaces the whole lower unit when changing from FP to RB. And they are different shape.

Oh, that is really my bad... I didn't mean a picture of the metal part that hold the nib assembly. When I said nib holder, I meant the black plastic piece that hold the actual nib. I meant a picture of the nib assembly and the replacement assembly, not the holder... Oops

 

[KenV]

Nibs

Dean --

Front to back

Rolling Riter nib

Fountain Pen Nib

8 mm Nib unit for larger pens (Heritance) for comparison

the 6.4 mm threaded units are identical without going to precision measurements

 

[JerrySambrook]

Ken,
Could you increase the size of the picture?
Thanks
Jerry

 

[alphageek]

A bigger picture would be nice, but if you say they are identical.. I'd believe you. Even from the smaller picture the threading looks much closer than the assembly from my Jr.

 

[KenV]

Jerry -- that camera does not have a macro setting. Got as close as I could and cropped the photo. Both of the units in the foreground were turned into the 6.4 by .5 die to see if they were a match - and I could see no difference in threads with 1.6 mag eyes.

I have the matched tap and die from Lou (DCBluesman) and chased the baron mounting tube with the tap and checked these with the die. No forced fit here given normal +/- 5% or better tolerances.

I went through the inventory and did not find any more of the Baron/Seldona fountainpens -- not highly popular around here so I do not stock them.

 

[IPD_Mrs]

As I promised earlier here are the photos.
This first photo is of a Rollerball Converter after it has been put in a Jr Gent II fountain pen nib holder that had it's threads chased with the M6.4 x .5 tap. The photo is undoctored and the threads were not wiped off.

Here is the Rollerball converter in the Jr Gent II fountain pen nib holder. Notice the ring on the converter is seated full to the metal. This screws in and seats perfectly.

This last photo is of a brand new converter on the left, the one in the center is the one that was in the two photos above and the one on the right is a new Heritance nib and feed which is also a M6.4 x .5 thread.

I have not tried to put the original nib back into the holder but don't really feel a need to with the Heritance nib and feed holder. By simply chasing the threads of the Jr Gent II nib holder, I can now offer my Jr series pens in either fountain pen or rollerball that uses fountain pen ink. I can also offer both for the same pen. Thank you Ken for bringing up the thread chasing idea which had never occurred to me. Now there is simply no thread issue with these by simply hand turning a tap in the feed holder. It literally took no more than a minute to do this by hand. Also thank you Ken for testing this on the Baron/Navigator type pens which we also had not considered. Expect a big thank you with your order we are shipping tomorrow.

Thank you Dean for starting this thread. I think this now fully solves any threading issues. If it was not for your tireless effort on this little part it's full potential might have gone unoticed.

Thank You Ken. I have no idea what you do for a living but your mind works like an engineer or designer.

To those wanting a M6.4 x .5 tap.....
We have 24 of them on order and should be in next week or so. These can be used to chase threads in the nib holders or used for kitless configurations. We already have a couple people that have requested these. If you are interested let us know in a PM. The price will be $24 each and will be a first come first served basis. A second order of these will depend on interest.

 

[KenV]

Mike -- glad it is coming together in your mind -- I am still not sure that there has not been a change in threads in some of the recent Jr Gent production. The order being shipped next week should provide a larger sample. You noted earlier that you had older Jr Gents also - so please do be sure the more currnet Artisan version is similarly threaded.

I did spend too many years in Graduate School and worked as a political engineer for the last decade.

I like these little ink spreaders -- and hope they will provide a wider audience than the traditional fountiain pen -- especially as I am going to have 10 Jr Gents FPs soon.

Dean -- Lets continue to have the IAP conversation about these and the Jr. Gent. I continue to appreciate and enjoy the interchange.

I will be headed out tomorrow evening on the Ferry and after getting to Bellingham Wa Friday, driving to Arizona so may not have much more opportunity to work on these until I get to Tucson.

 

[alphageek]

Well Mike, that is indeed interesting. I don't think it answer all my questions... And raises a few more in my head.

If this is the same thread as the other assembly, have people been using that in jrs without an issue? Doesn't make sense to me. However like I said, I'm limited in my FP experience. Ive used those replacement nibs but only in the stock holder.

I may have to find that tap at some point for myself. I'm still not convinced but if I get my hands on a tap, I'll run it through my 'cut' holder which will can hopefully give me a view into what it is doing to the holder.

Mike - now that you have seen how the part fits after using the tap, does it make more sense to you why I was unhappy with the fit in the stock part (specifically about how the gap was there until using the tap?) Are you going to be ammending your recommendation and including notes about the tap? How about damage to the jrs (IE I doubt csusa would warranty the part after a tap has been run through)?

This "less than $3 part" could cost me a bunch of money!! Ken introduced me to a the baron that I don't turn today that I have a reason to try and now this tap possibly at some point.

Ken - when you read this... I am still interested in your experience with the gents you get... Specifically I am curious to see what thread size the stock nib assembly is in your opinion.

 

[alphageek]

Ken... We just typed at the same time! I agree that this exchange has been very good and please do continue as I as well don't think this is all "solved" yet. I think there is still some unanswered questions and I still like the idea of being able to use this part in components that can be ordered and used without needing the specialized tap.

 

[Russianwolf]

Sounds better but has anybody measured the diameter of the original fountain pen part verses the rollerball part. I'm still betting its slightly smaller and riding the threads instead of enaging them.

 

[IPD_Mrs]

Sounds better but has anybody measured the diameter of the original fountain pen part verses the rollerball part. I'm still betting its slightly smaller and riding the threads instead of enaging them.

While I am not 100% sure of what you are asking a measurement for, I can tell you this. When taking digital calipers and measuring downwards of the thread section of both pieces (so as to not get caught inside a thread portion and mess up a measurement) there is only a very minimal difference - one which researchers would consider within normal tolerance.
The original fountain pen measures .249 and the converter measures .248. This should not be a problem especially for a chased component.

 

[IPD_Mrs]

Well Mike, that is indeed interesting. I don't think it answer all my questions... And raises a few more in my head.

If this is the same thread as the other assembly, have people been using that in jrs without an issue? Doesn't make sense to me. However like I said, I'm limited in my FP experience. Ive used those replacement nibs but only in the stock holder.

Is what the same thread as the other assembly? I am confused at what you are asking. If you asking are if the Heritance nib holder/feed are the same thread then yes. I am unsure how others are using the Heritance nibs holders. I use them for kitless and now in this new configuration.

I may have to find that tap at some point for myself. I'm still not convinced but if I get my hands on a tap, I'll run it through my 'cut' holder which will can hopefully give me a view into what it is doing to the holder. Not too sure how you will do this since it is spread apart. That should be an interesting trick.

Mike - now that you have seen how the part fits after using the tap, does it make more sense to you why I was unhappy with the fit in the stock part (specifically about how the gap was there until using the tap?) Actually I have been able to get them to seat fully without chasing the threads. Are you going to be ammending your recommendation and including notes about the tap? How about damage to the jrs (IE I doubt csusa would warranty the part after a tap has been run through)? Yes I will recommend that you chase the threads with a tap if using them in the Jr. Gent II or Baron/Navigator. As for the warranty, I consider this a non-issue. Never once have I EVER had to replace a nib holder for any kit from CSUSA. Additionally, we warranty our pens and have never had to replace a single one. Even the one that went through the washing machine. Finally if I expected CSUSA or any other supplier to warranty pens I would never upgrade the kit nibs because that changes the kit.

This "less than $3 part" could cost me a bunch of money!! Ken introduced me to a the baron that I don't turn today that I have a reason to try and now this tap possibly at some point. Please explain!! Didn't you say that you have limited FP experience. I would assume you do very few fountain pens based on this statement.

Ken - when you read this... I am still interested in your experience with the gents you get... Specifically I am curious to see what thread size the stock nib assembly is in your opinion.

Mike

 

[IPD_Mrs]

Mike -- glad it is coming together in your mind -- I am still not sure that there has not been a change in threads in some of the recent Jr Gent production. The order being shipped next week should provide a larger sample. You noted earlier that you had older Jr Gents also - so please do be sure the more currnet Artisan version is similarly threaded.

Ken this was all done on the kit we got just after Christmas from CSUSA. These were labeled Artisan.

 

[soligen]

Sure looks like the threads on the rolling writer are the same as the heritance nib holder, but what does that tell us? Is the heritance nib holder the part from the kit or a part for kitless?

If that nib holder came out of the kit, then I would conclude that the kit threads must vary.

BTW, MLKWoodworking. Have you 2 considered getting seperate IDs? Its kind of disconcerting not knwoing who is "speaking", or even if its the same person each time.

 

[IPD_Mrs]

Sure looks like the threads on the rolling writer are the same as the heritance nib holder, but what does that tell us? Is the heritance nib holder the part from the kit or a part for kitless?

If that nib holder came out of the kit, then I would conclude that the kit threads must vary.

BTW, MLKWoodworking. Have you 2 considered getting seperate IDs? Its kind of disconcerting not knwoing who is "speaking", or even if its the same person each time.

Dennis,

The Heritance Nib Holder is an after market product for those who don't know - they will not be "the part from the kit" but can be used with either kitless design or with kits using the tap to chase the threads in the kit with the same size nib holder.

As for our ID's we have been MLKWoodworking since we came here. Mrs doesn't speak all that often and generally signs her name unless it is just a "welcome to the forum type post." Our computers are less than 2 feet from each other on one long desk unit that takes up a small wall. Many (not all) posts are collaborative, unless made in the middle of a work day - those are almost all on the Mr. as Mrs. has very limited access from her employer.

Mrs (like this)

 

[KenV]

Dennis and Mike -- I stuck the dial calipers on the stock nib for the baron and it was 0.002 smaller -- but that is within the variability of the dial calipers and I did not have the time to dig out micrometers and try for a better meaurement.

I would expect the stock nib assembly to be a bit more loose and not be as completly engaged in the threads.

I am viewing this as moving into the grey zone of semi-custom work and parts may not be as generally interchangable. One of the rationale for chasing threads is that the pieces are coming from separate manufacturing streams and the probability of all going together as if by magic is likely a low number.

Each of us has to decide how much we want to step into the not-quite-stock part of the components and assembly.

These are neat units and have the potential to attract people to the opportunity to use some neat inks without the hassles of fountain pen maintenance.

Time will tell with the sample of 10 I will be checking in anouther couple of weeks.

 

[alphageek]

My replies in blue to help clarify... I can't think of a better way to answer. - Dean

Well Mike, that is indeed interesting. I don't think it answer all my questions... And raises a few more in my head.

If this is the same thread as the other assembly, have people been using that in jrs without an issue? Doesn't make sense to me. However like I said, I'm limited in my FP experience. Ive used those replacement nibs but only in the stock holder.

Is what the same thread as the other assembly? I am confused at what you are asking. If you asking are if the Heritance nib holder/feed are the same thread then yes. I am unsure how others are using the Heritance nibs holders. I use them for kitless and now in this new configuration.

Ok.. I think that answers the question I had - The heritance holder wasn't ever claimed to be a replacement for the stock one.

I may have to find that tap at some point for myself. I'm still not convinced but if I get my hands on a tap, I'll run it through my 'cut' holder which will can hopefully give me a view into what it is doing to the holder. Not too sure how you will do this since it is spread apart. That should be an interesting trick.
My cut holder is not spread apart. It was cut very carefully as to not change the shape. And if the chasing of threads cuts as little metal as you claim, there should be no problem with me chasing the threads in this cut holder.

Mike - now that you have seen how the part fits after using the tap, does it make more sense to you why I was unhappy with the fit in the stock part (specifically about how the gap was there until using the tap?) Actually I have been able to get them to seat fully without chasing the threads. Are you going to be ammending your recommendation and including notes about the tap? How about damage to the jrs (IE I doubt csusa would warranty the part after a tap has been run through)? Yes I will recommend that you chase the threads with a tap if using them in the Jr. Gent II or Baron/Navigator. As for the warranty, I consider this a non-issue. Never once have I EVER had to replace a nib holder for any kit from CSUSA. Additionally, we warranty our pens and have never had to replace a single one. Even the one that went through the washing machine. Finally if I expected CSUSA or any other supplier to warranty pens I would never upgrade the kit nibs because that changes the kit.
Those are good points - except I know not everyone is that "kind" to a vendor, especially a larger one like CSUSA. If something doesn't work, even if the problem was caused by the customer - the vendor is often blamed. I know too many people that haved worked customer service to believe otherwise. My other thought/point here I guess is that you have somewhat reversed your position from this "working" in the product to working better by using a tap. My point is that instead of any possible damage being done to the "throw away" part as you have called it, you could damage the metal holder.


This "less than $3 part" could cost me a bunch of money!! Ken introduced me to a the baron that I don't turn today that I have a reason to try and now this tap possibly at some point. Please explain!! Didn't you say that you have limited FP experience. I would assume you do very few fountain pens based on this statement.

Yes, FP are a smaller part of my inventory. It was just pointed out by you earlier about the high amount of interest in such a "low cost part". My comment was just a bit of sarcasm based on the other things I may be buying. (Or may not.. that is yet to be seen... You can consider the statement of "costing me a bunch of money" retracted. I guess my attempt at humor didn't work the way it sounded to me.)


Ken - when you read this... I am still interested in your experience with the gents you get... Specifically I am curious to see what thread size the stock nib assembly is in your opinion.

Mike

Lastly, I know you feel I am being overly negative here and pushing this hard... but then again you are pushing this hard as well, especially for someone who "if I decided to stop selling these today I would not have any loss"..

If you feel that this thread is continuing down a negative path at this point or something has been said unfairly - please feel free to use the moderate button or PM Curtis. I'm not acting as a mod on this thread. As a matter of fact - I would be fine if this thread gets closed at any point. I am interested in Kens findings still.. But I can take that offline if necessary. I was tempted to request a close, but didn't because I think things are still being learned.

I think there has been a ton of good information in this thread - so I'm glad I did the review. And actually Mike, I have to believe that you do too based on your comments. I don't agree with your assessment that "I think this now fully solves any threading issues.", but I do agree in principal as most members do have enough information to make their own choices on what their options are.

One final note... The interesting thing here is that MAYBE this will take some people down the path of kitless (those like myself who havn't yet)... If they do start using a tap on kit components - maybe that first step of modifying kit components will be the icebreaker for doing fully kitless.

 

[alphageek]

Dennis and Mike -- I stuck the dial calipers on the stock nib for the baron and it was 0.002 smaller -- but that is within the variability of the dial calipers and I did not have the time to dig out micrometers and try for a better meaurement.

I would expect the stock nib assembly to be a bit more loose and not be as completly engaged in the threads.

I am viewing this as moving into the grey zone of semi-custom work and parts may not be as generally interchangable. One of the rationale for chasing threads is that the pieces are coming from separate manufacturing streams and the probability of all going together as if by magic is likely a low number.

Each of us has to decide how much we want to step into the not-quite-stock part of the components and assembly.

These are neat units and have the potential to attract people to the opportunity to use some neat inks without the hassles of fountain pen maintenance.

Time will tell with the sample of 10 I will be checking in anouther couple of weeks.

Again you answered while I was typing... I like your term "semi custom". I think that defines in two words the best summary of this whole thread.

Given that its going to be a couple of weeks till you come back on this, I plan on leaving this thread stop now, unless something significant is pointed out or requested. I have to give some thought on how far I want to go on these and what to try next. Thanks for your excellent information in this matter Ken!

 

[ctubbs]

To all the thoughtful people that have contributed to this thread, a huge thank you. This has brought much information out into the open and research completed for everyone's benefit. this is something that many of us will try at one point in our turning efforts. It is something that has given me ideas and solved problems even before I had experience with them. This is exactly what I have come to believe that the IAP is all about, open discussion without attacking an individual or company.
This product is something that I will give a try, but now I already know what to expect and what the work around will be without having to run around and bother the vendor individually with my problems. Once more, thank you to all involved. Dean, I am glad you did not ask for closure.
Charles

 

[IPD_Mrs]

Lastly, I know you feel I am being overly negative here and pushing this hard... but then again you are pushing this hard as well, especially for someone who "if I decided to stop selling these today I would not have any loss"..

If you feel that this thread is continuing down a negative path at this point or something has been said unfairly - please feel free to use the moderate button or PM Curtis. I'm not acting as a mod on this thread. As a matter of fact - I would be fine if this thread gets closed at any point. I am interested in Kens findings still.. But I can take that offline if necessary. I was tempted to request a close, but didn't because I think things are still being learned.

I think there has been a ton of good information in this thread - so I'm glad I did the review. And actually Mike, I have to believe that you do too based on your comments. I don't agree with your assessment that "I think this now fully solves any threading issues.", but I do agree in principal as most members do have enough information to make their own choices on what their options are.

One final note... The interesting thing here is that MAYBE this will take some people down the path of kitless (those like myself who havn't yet)... If they do start using a tap on kit components - maybe that first step of modifying kit components will be the icebreaker for doing fully kitless.

No dean I do NOT want this closed. I like it here for all to see EVERYTHING. This has been very good for the IAP and for me.

I do find that your intense interest in this has been amusing. It comes across as anything said about this in a positive was not good enough for you. A good example would be the warranty issues. In the IAP library is a tutorial on converting a Sierra to a pencil that has been around four years. It shows a transmission and a nib being drilled, yet there has been no hoopla over a warranty issue for that.

And the reason I push so hard on this is because you have pushed so hard to derail it. And while you say you are not acting as a Mod. the fact is your name shows Ass. Mod. and many see that as a person of authority so it will have some bearing on how things are viewed.

Finally Dean I want you to know that I am not mad at you or even dislike you. I would think that some of my PMs to you should show that. I think that your title causes undue friction since it is viewed as an authority figure and it is important to make sure that people understand that you do not always have the only viewpoint and that your viewpoint in no necessarily correct because of that title.

Mike

 

[alphageek]

No dean I do NOT want this closed. I like it here for all to see EVERYTHING. This has been very good for the IAP and for me.

I do find that your intense interest in this has been amusing. It comes across as anything said about this in a positive was not good enough for you. A good example would be the warranty issues. In the IAP library is a tutorial on converting a Sierra to a pencil that has been around four years. It shows a transmission and a nib being drilled, yet there has been no hoopla over a warranty issue for that.

And the reason I push so hard on this is because you have pushed so hard to derail it. And while you say you are not acting as a Mod. the fact is your name shows Ass. Mod. and many see that as a person of authority so it will have some bearing on how things are viewed.

Finally Dean I want you to know that I am not mad at you or even dislike you. I would think that some of my PMs to you should show that. I think that your title causes undue friction since it is viewed as an authority figure and it is important to make sure that people understand that you do not always have the only viewpoint and that your viewpoint in no necessarily correct because of that title.

Mike

Good Mike... I'm glad you want it all here. As for my title - remember that I am an IAP member first, then a mod second. Per direction from Curtis, if I'm acting as a mod, then my normal sig line will not be there, and instead each public post is signed with my assistant moderator status. I believe that I make posts every day that there are many posts each day that I make that are equal footing with others (for example - I've replied to "what pen kit should I do first" and "what camera should I buy" and I don't think there is reason for my recommendations to be any stronger than others.)

However, your point may have merit. I am going to bring up my title with the managers and moderators. Since I'm to put my title in my signature when acting as mod, maybe it is unnecessary.

As for me trying to "derail" this, I don't believe that what I've been doing. I've been trying to find the truth about this. If the truth is the best way to do that with a Jr Gent is with a tap, then we have made great ground in this thread. As I said in my other post, I really like Kens "semi custom" term. I don't believe that this part is derailed - I think if anything this thread may have been good for this part.

 

[IPD_Mrs]

Dean changing your signature is appreciated but it doesn't change the left side pannel. You still show as a Mod.

alphageek
Assistant Moderator <----------



Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Green Bay, WI, USA.
Posts: 2,206
Photos: 7

 

[KenV]

This has been a great thread -- and probably streaches the intent of the Reviews forum topic.

As "semi-custom" work, I propose lets continue our discussions of the Rolling Righter over in the Advanced Pen Making part of IAP so that we can keep this perhaps better on topic, but more especially more visible to those intested. As I am sitting on the Ferry over the next few days, I may be able to condense this thread and the observations into a "Briefing" (vs a Tutorial) for the library. Would hate to see the good learning become hard to find for others.

Please let me know if you have objections to my borrowing from your posts to do that summary. I will use conversational style rather than references and footnotes.

Thanks again to all

 

[alphageek]

Mike/Linda - I understood completely what you were referring to and although I don't see that as an issue, and AFAIK its never before been raised as an issue - I did open a discussion item for Jeff and his managers.

Ken, I agree this thread has gone about as far as it can go. Feel free to take any information that I have posted to use as you wish. At this point, given the discussions about taps, etc... Advanced Pen Making would be a better place to continue.

Given that, I am going to now ask the mods (yes the other ones!) to close this thread. Further questions can be raised by PM or in the Advanced thread after Ken creates it.

 

[IPD_Mrs]

Very quickly before the IS team figures out that I am online at work. I really hate that this thread will get closed Dean. I was able to hand tighten one of the roller converters into one of the new Artisan's last night almost perfectly and planned on testing some more tonight to see if it is a fluke or not. This is a good thread and it won't be moved to Advanced for several days. So long as everyone is being civil I don't see a need for any of us to request this being closed actually.
Mrs.