Pens Plus Methods

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Dan Masshardt

Dan Masshardt

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Just bought a bottle of Pens Plus finish to try and hopefully add to my finishing options.

I've read Mike's tutorial (thanks Mike!) but would like to get more perspectives as well.

For those using thus finish and happy with the result, what is your methodology for application / polishing?

Anyone having any issues with durability so far?

Thanks!
 
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dtswebb

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Dan,

I have used Mike's tutorial as my guide and have not had any issues with the Pen Plus. On some stabilized woods, I don't use the Micro Mesh pads and the walnut oil, preferring the Abralon finishing kit I purchased from BG Artforms several years ago.

I prefer the Pen Plus finish to any other finish I've tried and used. Mike's tutorial and a few emails back and forth really nailed how to get the best finish.

I do use a Beall buffing system on all my pens - the white diamond and carnauba wax buffs.

I should also say that I do not like the plastic look of a CA finish. I've used it but not been happy with it. And the more postings I read with folks reporting issues with CA finishes, I believe I'm on the right track.

Matthew
 
BSea

BSea

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I also pretty much follow Mike's tutorial. My only difference is that I use all the mm pads. I followed the directions from the doctor's woodshop (before they had the pens plus tutorial), and I noticed a definite difference after using Mike's method. I don't finish with the micro crystalline wax. I will probably buy some the next time I order from Doctor's woodshop though.

I like the look and feel this method gives. I like CA finishes too, but CA doesn't like me, so I rarely use it anymore.
 
Charlie_W

Charlie_W

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Dan,
What about the longevity of this finish? My past use of the Mylands is that it holds it's shine nicely if it is not handled much. A regular use pen will loose the shine but will have a natural look to it.
 
N

Nedge

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Pens Plus

I use Myland's High Friction Polish, I bought up a fellow pen turners supplies and thats what he used. I apply it with folded paper towel, up to 10 coats. You can always try this method first on a scrap wood blank then turn down to the brass tube so you can recover it and reuse it in another blank. Are you interested in a detailed description of how I apply Myland's HFP?
Ed
 
Dan Masshardt

Dan Masshardt

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Charlie_W said:
Dan, What about the longevity of this finish? My past use of the Mylands is that it holds it's shine nicely if it is not handled much. A regular use pen will loose the shine but will have a natural look to it.
Click to expand...

Remember, I'm the one asking about / trying pens plus, not preaching it.

The walnut oil / shellac bland (supposedly) hardens and is more durable than a mylands type friction polish

I'm not sure if pens plus has been around long to have any really long term result, but there are turners here who would not use mylands because of durability who are using pens plus.

That's one reason why I'm trying it
 
Dan Masshardt

Dan Masshardt

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Nedge said:
I use Myland's High Friction Polish, I bought up a fellow pen turners supplies and thats what he used. I apply it with folded paper towel, up to 10 coats. You can always try this method first on a scrap wood blank then turn down to the brass tube so you can recover it and reuse it in another blank. Are you interested in a detailed description of how I apply Myland's HFP? Ed
Click to expand...

Thank you very much for the offer, but no. I'm really only interested in methods for pens plus here. I'm guessing that they are different enough that the application of one might not necessarily carry over to the other.

Btw, I like mylands and other similar finishes. I just happen to be in the camp that shy away from them for pens and items that will be handled constantly.
 
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jaygeedubya

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sorry, a newbie question here - read the thread, looked at a video with the product (and Mike) - just to confirm, he sands thru the grit progression using walnut oil, then finishes with the pen plus?

thanks


jamie
 
BSea

BSea

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jaygeedubya said:
sorry, a newbie question here - read the thread, looked at a video with the product (and Mike) - just to confirm, he sands thru the grit progression using walnut oil, then finishes with the pen plus?

thanks


jamie
Click to expand...
That's right. I have a set of mm dedicated to sanding using walnut oil. I keep them sealed in a zip lock bag.
 
southernclay

southernclay

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I followed his video/email instructions. I have seen someone post on here that they also sand in reverse with their finish. I don't have reverse and haven't reversed the blank to try this. I've had great results overall, unsure of longevity although someone at the recent Georgia meeting stated they did a pen they've been using for 6 months with no issues with wear. I will say I've had an ice cream scoop in our drawer at home getting beat on and piled up with spatulas, whisks and other kitchen utensils and it still looks great but has only been 2.5 months.

I really like the finish overall, like the more natural look. But I'm still trying to improve my CA finish because I think the more options we have at our disposal the better. The lack of heavy chemicals in the finish is appealing as well.

Dan I've been told the same thing about Ron browns best finishing oils. Sounds like you've had the same experience as me with Mike. He was easy to deal with and great in communicating.

I haven't used MM on the finish, I just bought some high grit assortment off eBay up to 6k grit for really cheap. Cut off 1" strips and stapled them in order at the end where I can just rip off what I need to sand if that helps at all.
 
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mightymavkev

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Dan,

I have some experience. About a dozen pens thus far. I printed Mike's instructions and have them posted next to my lathe. I never even tried another approach (with Pens Plus) because Mike's process, while time consuming, works very well for me.

I have tried this finish on antler. After talking to Mike, he hadn't tried it yet and neither of us were sure it would work very well, but on my 2 test pens, I like it and from what I'm observing the finish is holding up and the satin shine is still consistent and shows no signs of dulling.

I use the MM. I bought a fresh pack and dedicate those pads to only Walnut Oil application and keep in a ziploc bag.

My only thing with Mike's method that I've struggled with is the part applying the Pens Plus. I use the same spot on the application paper towel over and over as Mike suggests, but it really starts to deteriorate on me and come apart from saturation before I start getting that "equal shine" during both application and buffing that you look for to know you're done using his method. I'm convinced it's my technique and perhaps a combination of how much Pens Plus I'm using, lathe speed, and choice of paper towel that I'm struggling with and I'll figure it out eventually.

But to answer your original question, yes, I've tried this finish and I love it. It is the only finish I use on wood now and it is potentially becoming my favorite finish on antler based on initial results of a couple test pens.

I have also used Mike's methods and Pens Plus on larger items made with wood - like Pizza cutters, 4-in-1 screwdriver kits and even the stainless steel travel mug kit on a chunk of claro walnut (that is beautiful stuff by the way).

Mike's process is time consuming, but I think you'll like it and I think you'll find that it holds up pretty well compared to other finishes.

Kevin
 
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BSea

BSea

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Fordwakeman said:
Is there something special about Walnut oil? Could you use BLO, or Danish oil? Just thought I'd ask.
Click to expand...
I think those would work too. One thing about walnut oil is that id doesn't discolor over time (according to Doctorts Woodshop). I've heard BLO will yellow a bit. Most other oils will too. I have used BLO often, and I haven't seen any noticeable yellowing. But I don't have many where I used BLO, so I'm not the best one to ask.

But the real secret to this method is the pens plus product. It has the micro crystalline wax suspended in solution, and that's where the protection & shine really come from.
 
P

panamag8or

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I haven't tried the finish, yet (I will, soon, though), but I did take a clue from the video, and now I wet sand my wood pens with Danish oil. It makes a world of difference, compared to plain old dry sanding.
 
N

NittanyLion

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State College PA
Dan,

I believe I've mentioned to you, I use a home brew of pens plus....consisting of walnut oil, shellac, and caranuba. I'v tried various methods, here is what works best for me:

Apply with thin sponges, maybe 15 seconds back and forth per coat until starts to dry, resting 1 minute between coats. Repeat about 6 coats. After that, I begin applying one coat at a time, rest 1 minute, buff with white lint free cloth. I repeat this about 4-6 coats. The last few coats, my lathe speed is high and I hold the cloth on to heat up the blank for a good hot buff. I will adjust as needed based on wood type and how it sucks in the finish. Overall it has been working very well for me. I just looked at a pen I sold back in september that is a co-workers daily carry and it still looks great. He uses it every day, all day.

This is my method that works for me....good luck.
 
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