painting over laser engraved surface

[scotian12]

Hi Folks...I am using a PSI rosewood pen box and have had it engraved. Realizing from past experience that gold paint will fleck in the open pours of the surface rosewood box I have not added gold paint to the engraving yet. Has anyone experience in applying the paint to the surface of the open poured wood without getting the paint flecks. I could try masking it but sometimes the edges of the masking tape show. Is there a masking agent that I could paint around the engraved area and then remove it later? Thanks for your input. Darrell Eisner

 

[John Pratt]

I have done this a little in the past and I can't remember the name of the product (hopefully one of the laser guys will chime in), but I used a type of wax type pen which I rubbed across the engraved surface. Then I took an alcohol wipe and wiped across the whole surface of the box to remove the excess. Kind of like laying down grout. I know the "wax" pen comes in several different colors.

 

[termitepenman]

Have you considered trying gold leaf. You should be able to put in your engraving without any problems as it is not liquid. Gold leaf is obtainable at most hobby craft stores. It is not that expensive. Check it out.

Dennis
Sacramento

 

[leestoresund]

Art supply stores have tins, about like small cans of shoe polish but the stuff inside is much more dense, in most colors. I use gold and black on my engraved pens.
Finger pressure usually heats it up enough to press it into the etch and wipe off with a paper towel.

Lee

 

[Sylvanite]

You mean like this?

It's a PSI rosewood box engraved and filled in gold. The color fill did get in the pores, but wiped out with a damp cloth.

Regards,
Eric

 

[pinelumber]

laser engraving

I have used 3 different laser engravers in the past year looking for the best one. The best one put tape over the wood did the engraving and filled the letters with show polish. She had to go into the city to get wild colors purple, gold, and silver but it looks clear, crisp, and clean. I have used some stuff from Laserbits and it didn't work bad.


Dennis
pine lumber:bananen_smilies104::RockOn:

 

[ribanett]

I use a product called "Rub 'n Buff" It's a paste that comes in a 1/2 oz. tube. I get about 25 lines to the tube. My engraver told me about it and it works great. Rub it into the engraving with your finger or a soft cloth and let it dry. Then rub off the excess with a cloth. Comes in many colors. I get it from Micheal's

 

[NewLondon88]

I'm seeing lots of good info on what to use for color fill, but I don't
think that's what you were asking. Your box is already engraved,
the box is porous wood and whatever you put on it will get into
the pores and look funky. Can you use anything to protect the porous
parts of the wood before using something to color fill?

The best way to do it is to laser through transfer tape and do the
color fill before removing the tape. But you're already past that
point.

You could also do the fill as carefully as you can, and try to wipe
away any excess, but frankly I've never had luck doing that. Those
rosewood (usually a paduak, not rosewood) boxes have plenty of
places for the color to get into and get stuck there. Using any type
of solvent usually takes off the box's finish.

You might try wiping on a thin coating of wax, but it would be
difficult to keep it out of the engraved areas. But if you could
manage to keep it out, then you could carefully spray the color
into the engraved areas and wipe everything else off when it dries.
But that would be difficult.

I've also seen liquid resist products offered that will let you paint on
the resist, fill in your paint, then remove the resist. But .. you run
into the same problem .. how do you keep the resist out of the
engraved areas?

It's a tough one, Darrell ... This is really something that should have
been decided before the engraving was done. If you talk to your
engrave about it, perhaps they don't understand what you need yet.
Once they know, they could send your engraved items back to you
with the transfer tape still on. (or do the fill for you)

 

[pianomanpj]

In the world of modeling and miniatures, they use a liquid masking agent. Just paint it on and let it dry. Apply your colorant as normal, and then peel off the mask. Even if it fills the pores, it should all pull off cleanly. Try it on test piece first. Good luck!

 

[toddlajoie]

Depending on what the design is, would it be possible to put an adhesive sheet over the design. then cut out the approximate areas that are engraved ( better to cut out LESS than was engraved ) them apply the color fill. It will go into the engraved areas, but the pores of the other areas will be protected, and it should fill in under the adhesive where it's under-cut. I certainly wouldn't want to do that one the design posted above (too much detail for my patients ) but if your engraving is not that complex, it may work...

 

[65GTMustang]

I use the same technique as dennis.
Prior to that I used the rub n buff product

 

[ragz]

Try using Liquid Frisket available in Hobby Lobby and Michael's.
You can apply it with a brush around the edges of the design apply fill and then peel off after fill has set/cured.

 

[scotian12]

I won't reply individually but I think we have all learned a few new techniques to avoid infilling the open pours. You have all given me information that will help me to solve this problem. I will be off tomorrow to Michaels and the art supply stores. This has always been a problem for me with open grained woods and the engraver did not have a solution so I stayed away from those types of wood for engraving. In the present situation I need the rosewood case and decided that there had to be a solution. I called upon the experience of the group and you responded. Thank you all very much. Darrell Eisner

 

[okiebugg]

Color fill

I go to Hobby Lobby or Michaels for simulated gold leaf. You don't have to be very precise putting it on. and it stays. I use upholstery glue in the bottom of the etching as a precaution.