Is there an easier way?

[MatthewZS]

So right now I just have a collet chuck, no 4 jaws of anykind, no blank drilling chuck. So to drill the blank on my lathe and then turn between centers I have to :

mark center both ends.

drill "pilot hole" both ends.

Mount between live and dead center.

Turn one end or whole blank down to 3/4 for collet chuck.

take off, put in collet chuck, drill

take out of chuck, glue tube, set between centers (or whatever).

Now when you start with a pre-rounded blank it knocks out half these steps...... OR if you have a blank drilling chuck or suitable substitute it ALSO seems to eliminate half of the steps. Also drilling the "pilot holes" initially without a drill press or anything other than collet chuck is HARDLY accurate so it seems like there SHOULD be something else to this.

So is there some other trick/shortcut/cheat I can use with what I HAVE to skip that same bit of effort or to "smooth the proccess" a bit? Just want to make sure I'm not missing something.

THanks

 

[workinforwood]

Yea...clamp square blank and drill with drill press. Unless u have a special blank that requires precision drill location..any normal blank just use drill press

 

[MatthewZS]

No drill press either.

I suspect I already know that the answer is simply to buy a drill press or drilling chuck but I figure it never hurts to ask. Someone out there may have some really sneaky approach

 

[ldb2000]

I don't drill the center holes for turning between centers , I just mark the blank with an automatic center punch which gives me enough of a dimple to set between centers and then tighten the tailstock as needed to keep the blank turning . Be careful with brittle blanks though , the automatic centerpunch can shatter the ends . On these I use the point of my marking gauge to make the dimple (any sharp pointed knife would work) . Then I simply turn the blank to 3/4" to fit my collet chuck and drill the blank . The whole process takes about 2 minutes .

 

[Larry in Harrow]

Unless your making square pens, you've got to turn it round soon or later.

 

[BSea]

Hey Mathew, that's pretty much what I do. About the only thing you might consider is doing more than 1 blank at a time. Do 2 or 3. That way you turn 3 down to 3/4, then drill all three, then . . . . . well, you get the idea. I realize that this is the less exciting part of turning a pen, and doing multiples will let you build up a bunch of rounded blanks to get to the fun stuff.

 

[MatthewZS]

I don't drill the center holes for turning between centers , I just mark the blank with an automatic center punch which gives me enough of a dimple to set between centers and then tighten the tailstock as needed to keep the blank turning . Be careful with brittle blanks though , the automatic centerpunch can shatter the ends . On these I use the point of my marking gauge to make the dimple (any sharp pointed knife would work) . Then I simply turn the blank to 3/4" to fit my collet chuck and drill the blank . The whole process takes about 2 minutes .

I think at least part of my gripe is due to the fact that with the dead center that came with my lathe I can't just use a center punch. Exect with the softest wood (and by that I mean balsa) I can't simply push the center in far enough for it's "teeth" to engage the blank. I have to break out a bit of SOME kind and drill a hole for the center point to sit down in.

Not a big deal, as I suspected it just means I need to buy more stuff. It just seems I have a never ending stream of "more stuff", so I thought I'd ask about any "anti more-stuff" solutions

 

[Chasper]

Put the bit into the collet chuck on the powered end of the lathe (assuming you have a collet that fits the bit).
Mark amd push a dimple at the desired entry and exit locations on the lathe. Hold the blank with a pliers, push one end against the tip of the bit and the other end on the center point on the tail end of the lathe.
Turn the lathe on slow and use the crank on the tail stock to push the blank into the bit. Be careful to stop before you drill into your tailstock live center, a small block of wood is handy for the last 1/4 inch.

I don't often drill on the lathe, but when I need a really accurate centered hole or when I'm drilling a very crooked piece of antler I use this method.

 

[Russianwolf]

I don't drill the center holes for turning between centers , I just mark the blank with an automatic center punch which gives me enough of a dimple to set between centers and then tighten the tailstock as needed to keep the blank turning . Be careful with brittle blanks though , the automatic centerpunch can shatter the ends . On these I use the point of my marking gauge to make the dimple (any sharp pointed knife would work) . Then I simply turn the blank to 3/4" to fit my collet chuck and drill the blank . The whole process takes about 2 minutes .

I think at least part of my gripe is due to the fact that with the dead center that came with my lathe I can't just use a center punch. Exect with the softest wood (and by that I mean balsa) I can't simply push the center in far enough for it's "teeth" to engage the blank. I have to break out a bit of SOME kind and drill a hole for the center point to sit down in.

Not a big deal, as I suspected it just means I need to buy more stuff. It just seems I have a never ending stream of "more stuff", so I thought I'd ask about any "anti more-stuff" solutions

You don't need the teeth to grab. I only use the live and dead centers on my lathe for pens, not the drive spur. It's a small piece and the centers can apply enough force to keep it spinning. you will occasionally have to tighten the tailstock if it slips, but it doesn't take much to have it spinning again.

Oh, and see if you can find a dead center that will fit in your collet chuck. saves lots of time.

 

[studioso]

when I round the blanks on my lathe between centers I don't use the spurs either, similar to russian Wolf. I just place between dead and live centers, and occasionally I tighten the tailstock. but I admit that sometimes I'm scared I'll crack the blank, although that has not yet happened.

 

[moke]

I use the spring loaded center punch as well. You can get them for 6 - 7 dollars at HF or for slightly more at any complete tool store. The Drive spur that came with your lathe is difficult to use for pens, use one of two other drives, either the dead center, which is just a "point" and can come loose but is easily rectified in 3 seconds by tightening, or I like to use a spring loaded "steb" center. Just fit the "dipple" created by the center punch into the drive center, tighten and go.

When I first began to drill on the lathe, this seemed to me to be a long process for drilling, but once you do it a few times, like it was said by Butch, it is only 2 minutes at best.

 

[ldb2000]

I use a dead center to turn the blanks round . Some of the blanks I use are 5/8" or smaller and I find that even the smallest drive or steb centers are still too big to comfortably turn blanks that small . The dead center is just a single 60 degree point and allows me to turn any size blank without possibly hitting the center with my tools . The dead center holds the blank very tightly with friction and as the center digs in a little I just have to tighten the tailstock a little to keep the blank turning .
Another advantage of using the dead center is if you get a catch , which does happen when turning a square blank round , the catch will just stop the blank from turning , it's almost impossible to blow up a blank .

 

[wolftat]

Whats the rush?

 

[Dudley Young]

Get more stuff. Don't turn a hobby into a full time job.:biggrin:

 

[areaman]

I dont use a drill press anymore for drilling blanks. I mount a four jaw chuck and use a drill chuck in the tailstock. they sellthem at harbour freight for around $15-$20. One of the best investments I have made.