Dust Collector Motor Problem

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lyonsacc

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2012
Messages
1,615
Location
Cincinnati, OH
I have had a Delta 50-850 dust collector for a number of years now. Delta Dust Collector 50-850 1-1/2 HP - Mike's Tools

The other day I had it running and it stopped. The little breaker overload button had popped. I pulled off the tubes (both intake and outflow) and have since tried to turn it on a few times. The motor starts to turn for about a second and then the breaker on the motor pops.

I am pretty clueless when it comes to electric motors. I have made sure there isn't anything stuck or hindering the fan blade from turning. Any ideas?

I have been using a little shop vac for the past week or so. I didn't realize how spoiled I was with the suction of this thing.

Thanks!
Dave
 
Joined
Sep 18, 2013
Messages
775
Location
Childress, Texas
Dave;
It sounds like it is definately your motor. Look everywhere for loose or frayed wires. Does the cord get warm? If you feel comfortable doing it, bypass the ON/OFF switch, then plug it in to check the switch. If it still gives you trouble you know it is either the capacitor or the motor. The trouble is, you can almost buy a new DC for the price of a motor! You MIGHT be able to get someone to rebuild it for you.
 

wyone

Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2014
Messages
1,764
Location
15314 Grasslands, Parker, CO 80134
I am an electrician and I would do a few things.. first make sure you can spin the impeller of the motor freely. If it spins freely, that probably means your bearings are OK. Next if you can unplug it and get an air hose in the end of the motor opposite the shaft and blow clean dry air through that. If it is not a bearing, my guess is that it is either a bad capacitor (which is in the bump out on the side of the motor, typically with the cover held in place with two screws, or the best case would be that blowing air through the back will solve it.

To put it simply, with a capacitor start motor, there is a set, or sometimes two sets of contacts in the motor itself. The contacts are CLOSED when the motor is off, allowing the capacitor to help get the motor to speed. Once the motor is to speed, there is a centrifugal mechanism on the shaft that OPENS and takes the capacitor out of the circuit as it is not typically needed (unless you have a capacitor start AND run motor). If the switch has dust in it, it may be keeping the contacts from closing and allowing the capacitor to help the motor get to speed. Also the motor draws the most amperage while starting, so if it does not start fast enough the overload or reset button will trip out.

If the capacitor is bad, you can take off the cover and normally will see a black fluid leaking out and well it smells pretty nasty. You can find a replacement at a motor shop, Grainger, or I am sure also online. You should be able to read the MF and voltage ratings on the capacitor. Don't worry if the voltage ratings seem weird, as they are not referring to the voltage you get when you plug it in, but rather winding voltage ratings.

Feel free to PM me if you don't understand what I am trying to explain or want any further help.
 
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