Dial indicator

[michaelperez]

Hello everybody , for long time a dial indicator always was in my mind.
Now that I have a wood lathe I'm aligning it eyeballing and to be honest i have mixing feelings (should I buy or should I not)
In your experience do you think it's and importan tool? a must for alignment or not worth the investment for a woodturning lathe?
I'll be happy to know your opinion.
Greetings

 

[CHARLES STOPCZYNSKI]

I purchased mine from Grizzly. It comes in a rigid box similar to power tool cases. No regrets.

 

[michaelperez]

I purchased mine from Grizzly. It comes in a rigid box similar to power tool cases. No regrets.

Thank you so much do you think it's a must To buy the dial indicator ?

 

[carlmorrell]

You don't need a dial indicator to make pens. It is nice to have one for machine maintenance. For example to check if a drill chuck has too much wear. To be technical - excessive Total Indicated Runout (TIR).

The only other time I have used one on the lathe, is trying to center an odd shape in an independent (four jaw) chuck. Metal, not wood or plastic.

 

[rixstix]

Nice to have. Not necessarily need to have. IMHO

I use a 6" steel machinist rule between center points to check alignments on my metal lathe (& wood lathes).

 

[michaelperez]

Nice to have. Not necessarily need to have. IMHO

I use a 6" steel machinist rule between center points to check alignments on my metal lathe (& wood lathes).

Thank you so much, I'll make my mind this weekend.

 

[michaelperez]

You don't need a dial indicator to make pens. It is nice to have one for machine maintenance. For example to check if a drill chuck has too much wear. To be technical - excessive Total Indicated Runout (TIR).

The only other time I have used one on the lathe, is trying to center an odd shape in an independent (four jaw) chuck. Metal, not wood or plastic.

Thank you so much, my recently interest is because I realized a misalignment in my wood lathe.

 

[howsitwork]

You can align pretty well by putting a pair of centres in the head and tail stock and sliding it along until they touch .

 

[egnald]

I was in your situation a couple of years ago and I opted for an inexpensive one from Harbor Freight. I use it more to measure repeatability and relative measurements more than for precise distances. I always figured if I needed accuracy more than repeatability at some point I could buy a more top-of-the-line model. I think I only spent about $25 on the indicator plus a multi-position magnetic base for it. (I used a 20% off coupon for the indicator of course). For the limited use it has had, it was a good purchase for me. - Dave

 

[michaelperez]

You can align pretty well by putting a pair of centres in the head and tail stock and sliding it along until they touch .

Thank you, i did it with my spur center and live center aligning it eyeballing but when checking it again with my Axminster pen mandrel I realized that the shaft didn't match the revolving tailstock centre so it was aligned in diagonal way. I don't know if I letting me understand?
That's why I'm looking another way of checking concentricity.

 

[michaelperez]

I was in your situation a couple of years ago and I opted for an inexpensive one from Harbor Freight. I use it more to measure repeatability and relative measurements more than for precise distances. I always figured if I needed accuracy more than repeatability at some point I could buy a more top-of-the-line model. I think I only spent about $25 on the indicator plus a multi-position magnetic base for it. (I used a 20% off coupon for the indicator of course). For the limited use it has had, it was a good purchase for me. - Dave

Thank you so much for sharing your experience, it really helps.

 

[jrista]

Thank you so much for sharing your experience, it really helps.

I did pretty much the same thing as egnald. Purchased one (with a magnetic locking base with swivel and adjustment arms) that was fairly cheap. It has served its purpose well, and helped me identify certain issues with various tools, check certain tools, centers, etc. for optimal trueness, etc. You don't need to spend a lot on your first one, and it can help you learn how to use one, and dial your equipment in to better precision, even if it may not necessarily get you to "perfection".

 

[michaelperez]

I did pretty much the same thing as egnald. Purchased one (with a magnetic locking base with swivel and adjustment arms) that was fairly cheap. It has served its purpose well, and helped me identify certain issues with various tools, check certain tools, centers, etc. for optimal trueness, etc. You don't need to spend a lot on your first one, and it can help you learn how to use one, and dial your equipment in to better precision, even if it may not necessarily get you to "perfection".

thanks so much sharing every experience is very helpful

 

[rherrell]

I use one every time I use a pin chuck or a pen mandrel, here's a video I made of how I use it...

 

[michaelperez]

I use one every time I use a pin chuck or a pen mandrel, here's a video I made of how I use it...

Thank you so much, very instructive video really helpful.
Greetings have a nice weekend.

 

[michaelperez]

After researching all weekend I found this option at Amazon.de : https://www.amazon.de/-/en/10142/dp...33-babf-92389f6d8e4c&pd_rd_i=B00MY0KRZW&psc=1
1. Brand : KÄFER made in Germany.
2. No lug back.
3. No bezel lock.

What do you think? Does it worth? Love to hear any comments.

 

[rherrell]

You don't need the bezel lock but you need the lug back if you want to mount it to a toolpost holder. If you get one without a lug back you'll need a magnetic holder like this...

https://www.amazon.de/-/en/401125C/dp/B00KBQKU2G/ref=psdc_5866099031_t2_B001C9V6W4

 

[michaelperez]

You don't need the bezel lock but you need the lug back if you want to mount it to a toolpost holder. If you get one without a lug back you'll need a magnetic holder like this...

https://www.amazon.de/-/en/401125C/dp/B00KBQKU2G/ref=psdc_5866099031_t2_B001C9V6W4

Thank you very much, I was thinking to improvise a holder, a rod with a hole and cut in the middle with a screw to secure it or maybe not a good idea?

 

[rherrell]

If you make your own holder I suggest you get an indicator with a lug back, here's a pic of mine...

I hope this gives you an idea for making your own.

 

[michaelperez]

If you make your own holder I suggest you get an indicator with a lug back, here's a pic of mine...
View attachment 362548

I hope this gives you an idea for making your own.

Thank you, I'll was thinking in holding it by the shaft, what do you think?

 

[duncsuss]

Thank you, I'll was thinking in holding it by the shaft, what do you think?

I think you should get one like Rick has in his photo. Gripping by the shaft could squeeze it and interfere with the mechanism.

They usually cost less than the one you found on Amazon. Such as:

https://www.amazon.com/Metric-Indicator-Extension-Measuring-Accurate/dp/B087JTQ7LX/ref=sr_1_11?crid=11IAWRGRJRL3A&keywords=dial+indicator+mm&qid=1698590972&sprefix=dial+indicator+%2Caps%2C86&sr=8-11

 

[Curly]

.....Gripping by the shaft could squeeze it and interfere with the mechanism.....

I'll have to disagree with you on this one. Indicators are made to be gripped by the stem and lots of measuring tools use that method to hold dial indicators. Dial Depth Gauges and Bore Gauges to name two. You have to be a real graunch artist to crush the metal enough to start interfering with the plunger action. There are lots of tools that use set screws, clamps and collets to grip the stem so there is no reason Michael can't do the same. It might still be easier to make a tool to hold the lug or a dovetail back but that's for him to decide depending upon his abilities and stuff he has to work with.

 

[eharri446]

Here is something that I use to align the headstock with the tailstock: Lathe Test Buddy Bar - MT2 to MT2 - Align Your Lathe - Morse Taper 2MT to 2MT.

I only use it every once in a while, however, it makes it easy to adjust everything so that they are aligned properly.

 

[michaelperez]

I think you should get one like Rick has in his photo. Gripping by the shaft could squeeze it and interfere with the mechanism.

They usually cost less than the one you found on Amazon. Such as:

https://www.amazon.com/Metric-Indicator-Extension-Measuring-Accurate/dp/B087JTQ7LX/ref=sr_1_11?crid=11IAWRGRJRL3A&keywords=dial+indicator+mm&qid=1698590972&sprefix=dial+indicator+%2Caps%2C86&sr=8-11

thank you so much, I also was thinking in cheap alternative but In my experience with cheap brands haven't been lucky, first I bought a digital caliper and it was a nightmare really couldn't use it so I bought a Mitutoyo and can't be more happy very reliable equipment, then last thing I bought was an inside outside caliper with a ruler to get the exact measurement, hahaha nothing close to precision. I spent all the day trying to fix it at the end of the day tired and frustrated through it away even couldn't use it once.
greetings

 

[duncsuss]

I'll have to disagree with you on this one. Indicators are made to be gripped by the stem and lots of measuring tools use that method to hold dial indicators.

Thanks Pete - I'll take your word on this. I've never done it (out of concern that it might damage the stem), I tend towards caution.

 

[michaelperez]

I'll have to disagree with you on this one. Indicators are made to be gripped by the stem and lots of measuring tools use that method to hold dial indicators. Dial Depth Gauges and Bore Gauges to name two. You have to be a real graunch artist to crush the metal enough to start interfering with the plunger action. There are lots of tools that use set screws, clamps and collets to grip the stem so there is no reason Michael can't do the same. It might still be easier to make a tool to hold the lug or a dovetail back but that's for him to decide depending upon his abilities and stuff he has to work with.

Hello, thank you. Yesterday I saw lots of videos of people using the dial indicator and everybody hold it from the shaft. I was about to give up but after your answer I feel more confident. Thank you so much.

 

[michaelperez]

I'll have to disagree with you on this one. Indicators are made to be gripped by the stem and lots of measuring tools use that method to hold dial indicators. Dial Depth Gauges and Bore Gauges to name two. You have to be a real graunch artist to crush the metal enough to start interfering with the plunger action. There are lots of tools that use set screws, clamps and collets to grip the stem so there is no reason Michael can't do the same. It might still be easier to make a tool to hold the lug or a dovetail back but that's for him to decide depending upon his abilities and stuff he has to work with.

Hello I'm about to buy the dial indicator and I saw practically the same model but with shock protection.

https://www.amazon.de/-/en/10143/dp/B001MTRG9Q/ref=sr_1_31?crid=1LTC1SZE8RYTG&keywords=Dial+indicator&qid=1698610109&sprefix=dial+indicatoe%2Caps%2C355&sr=8-31

do you think it worth the extra money or the regular is ok?

 

[michaelperez]

Hello I just saw this DI in Amazon at good price do any of you know this brand would it be good as the German one?

https://www.amazon.com/TECLOCK-4409-1112-Metric-Indicator-Graduation/dp/B01LW2LCSX/ref=sr_1_37?crid=34WDNZU3TPNMG&keywords=Peacock%2BDial%2Bindicator&qid=1698612857&sprefix=peacock%2Bdial%2Bindicator%2B%2Caps%2C248&sr=8-37&th=1

thanks

 

[Curly]

The shock protection refers to the mechanism inside being better able to handle the plunger being pushed in and out frequently as when it might be against a rotating shaft. Nice too have but not really needed unless you plan on putting it to hard use. I have a Teclock branded one that I bought at least 30 or 40 years ago with a magnetic base that has had light use over the years and still works well. The one you linked does have the lug back so you have more mounting options. Any of the 3 will serve you.

 

[michaelperez]

The shock protection refers to the mechanism inside being better able to handle the plunger being pushed in and out frequently as when it might be against a rotating shaft. Nice too have but not really needed unless you plan on putting it to hard use. I have a Teclock branded one that I bought at least 30 or 40 years ago with a magnetic base that has had light use over the years and still works well. The one you linked does have the lug back so you have more mounting options. Any of the 3 will serve you.

I really appreciate your advices. Thank you so much. Teclock is at a very good price, so I'll go for it.

 

[michaelperez]

The shock protection refers to the mechanism inside being better able to handle the plunger being pushed in and out frequently as when it might be against a rotating shaft. Nice to have but not really needed unless you plan on putting it to hard use. I have a Teclock branded one that I bought at least 30 or 40 years ago with a magnetic base that has had light use over the years and still works well. The one you linked does have the lug back so you have more mounting options. Any of the 3 will serve you.

Hello, I feel ashamed to bother you again but I'm novice and have been looking for info in the internet and feel fool that can't understand the importance of the range. I also have been advised that the one I'm going to buy has very little range that goes from 0-10mm so it would be 1cm ( I'm most familiar with metric than inches ) and I need to be sure if it's going to suit my needs.
My need is to check my lathe alignment and it's supposed that the tolerance are microns so I thought 1cm is ok but dont know if it's convenient to go for the other model tha has a range from 0-20mm.
i don't know if 1-10mm will suit my need.
please do you have any advice?

 

[Curly]

No need to be ashamed. Everyone is a rookie a number of times in their life.
I inspected machined aircraft parts for almost three decades so I would be fine with 10mm but you might be happier with 20mm to 30mm. It gives you a little more positioning and access room when you want to measure things. Either way you'll be able to get the measurements you need once you get used to using it.

 

[michaelperez]

No need to be ashamed. Everyone is a rookie a number of times in their life.
I inspected machined aircraft parts for almost three decades so I would be fine with 10mm but you might be happier with 20mm to 30mm. It gives you a little more positioning and access room when you want to measure things. Either way you'll be able to get the measurements you need once you get used to using it.

Thank you so much for your patience and generosity. Have a nice week.

 

[rherrell]

If all you're doing is measuring runout then get the cheapest one, all you're looking for is movement of the needle so the measuring range or whether it's metric or imperial doesn't matter.

 

[michaelperez]

If all you're doing is measuring runout then get the cheapest one, all you're looking for is movement of the needle so the measuring range or whether it's metric or imperial doesn't matter.

Thank you so much, you are so kind,
have a nice week.

 

[michaelperez]

Hello, I would like to thank everyone for your time, advices and helping me in taking my decision. I'm learning a lot from you.
Today I placed the order and went for the teclock DI.
best wishes