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jbswearingen

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I have to build another light box (my dogs ate the cardboard box I built). So here's a crappy cell pic of a dart I turned this week.

I learned that the short tubes can only be stuffed with 8g of lead wool. Jon suggested trying lead fishing weights, packed in the wool. I'll give it a try. These were maxed out at 18g; I prefer 22g in mine.

Stabilized and dyed buckeye burl (that I got from Jon). 10 coats of CA, sanded through MM twice, Plastx polish.

2011-10-05121953.jpg



Does anybody here turn them? Any hints or tips or advice? I hope to/plan on selling them.
 
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jbswearingen

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It was a cake walk. The PSI kit uses SlimLine tubes (roughly the same length) and 7mm SlimLine bushings. The lead wool that comes with the kit isn't enough to make them as heavy as I like; but the tubes aren't long enough to pack enough in them to make them heavy enough.

PSI also sells a scale that makes weighing them easy; just clip the scale's storage bag to it, note its weight, then put the components in it, then subtract the weight of the bag to get the weight of the dart.

Dart kit:

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKDART2.html

Scale:

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKDARTGS.html
 

xxShadowxx

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Sep 11, 2011
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goto radio shack, buy solder
gets 100% of space filled, but slightly trickier to fill
 

KiltedGunn

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Oh wow, there's a LEGITIMATE use for those scales??? :rolleyes:

Nice dart by the way, I've looked at the kits but never got around to trying them.
 

pyurgal

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Highlands Ranch, Colorado
I have done a couple of sets. Two with the plastic tip and one with the metal tip. They all weighed about 20g.

I first used then PSI scale then I switched to a small kitchen scale. The kitchen scale is more accurate and easier to use. You really want all three darts to weigh the same.

I was going to use a burl wood initially but the wood was not heavy enough for me. For a set that I just sold, I used crosscut cocobolo and did not have to add much lead wool to get the darts to weigh 20g. I think using a denser wood is the way to go. Actually a tru-stone or M3 metal blank would be the best to use. I am going to have to try that. :)

Stuffing the lead wool in the tubes is a pain. I basically shred the wool in to pieces and then start stuffing the tube. I have a dowel that I use to push the wool to the center of the tube. Once I get the desired weight I put a drop or two of CA glue in the tube, at both ends of the packed wool to hold it in place. I am not sure that is needed but it works for me.


Paul
 

jbswearingen

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Yeah, I used a piece of drill stock to ram it in, much like a muzzle loader. I'll probably end up getting a kitchen scale, especially if these sell well and I'm making more.
 

Drstrangefart

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Just go to Woodcraft and buy some of the extra long 7mm tubes. Cut them to a length that allows the extra lead wool. Now I wanna turn darts. Jeez it never ends.....
 

BlackPearl

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Are these decent darts? A couple of the guys I work with are real dart snobs and if these are acceptable I may be able to make some for them.
 

jbswearingen

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Are these decent darts? A couple of the guys I work with are real dart snobs and if these are acceptable I may be able to make some for them.

So far I like them a lot. I've only spent about 20 minutes playing with them, though.

If your friends are snobs, it doesn't get much more high-brow than hand-made! Think about it...no two are identical unless you make them from solid-cast resin.

Here's a much better pic of them; I set up a new light box today:


DPP_0373Medium.jpg
 

panamag8or

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Here are a couple of concerns that the dart snobs might have:

-Are those tips screw-in? If so, I would CA them in for good, unless they plan on installing a set of hammerhead points or something similar. Nothing a darter hates more than parts coming loose and rattling around when they're trying to close out a game.

-While those are absolutely gorgeous, most darters prefer a knurled surface to facilitate grip. That seems like it would be impossible to do, and keep a nice finish.

That said, those are sweet, and I bet I could sell a dozen sets with a quickness.
 

glycerine

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Couldn't you melt some lead? Don't pour it directly into your finished tubes, but maybe pour it into some other tubes first, then when it's cooled, knock it out and slide it down into your finsihed ones?
 

TerryDowning

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Here are a couple of concerns that the dart snobs might have:

-Are those tips screw-in? If so, I would CA them in for good, unless they plan on installing a set of hammerhead points or something similar. Nothing a darter hates more than parts coming loose and rattling around when they're trying to close out a game.

-While those are absolutely gorgeous, most darters prefer a knurled surface to facilitate grip. That seems like it would be impossible to do, and keep a nice finish.

That said, those are sweet, and I bet I could sell a dozen sets with a quickness.

I have made 2 of the PSI dart kits, a third is waiting. Unfortunately, my hammer head points don't fit the threading of the tip.

I would not personally use handmade darts in tournament play, handmade and wood is too inconsistent between the three darts.

The dart snob that also collects will appreciate a handmade set though. My third set I want to make wooden shafts and fletch turkey feathers for a truly authentic look. Just for show though.
 

Jgrden

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This novice sees that making all three darts, or a set, to weigh the same and be shaped the same would be an issue. You think??
 

jbswearingen

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No, making them all the same weight is actually pretty easy. The scale I have isn't accurate enough to do it perfectly, but it can be done with a digital scale.

Weigh each one and note its weight. Then subtract that from the desired weight. Now add the amount needed to each dart to attain that weight.

Making them the same shape is also quite easy, with practice. These are straight-bodied, so to get that, I just turn close to size, then sand with paper backed by a straight board.

(edit)

On the tungsten--I'd rather stick with lead weights. They're a bit easier to deal with.

On melting lead to fit...I solder for a living and don't think this will work--the solder will "stick" to the tubes so you won't be able to get the plugs out.

panam--I'd love to sell a dozen of these!
 
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savage0809

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I have made a about 6 sets and sold them to a dart distribetor.Made a few at first then he wanted more. He wants 2 more sets soon. He sells the weights ,and scales,
 
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Charles

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I have made several sets. Will try and post pics later today. I have cast snake skin in the and they were really cool. They were pretty much a custom deal. Some like to have them head weighted. and others like the weight further back. Also some like different weights. I work where I have a VERY sensitive digital scale and get the weights as close as possibile. Usually within .001 of each other. Remember weigh all parts. including the flights to get the proper weight. I only wish Someone sold a nice lined box for them.:)
 
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Does anybody here turn them? Any hints or tips or advice? I hope to/plan on selling them.

I've turned a few, none lately though... I didn't have any trouble packing the tubes with the lead wool though... I made one set from antler, forgot the wool... luckily the whole set all weighed out at just over 19 grams each...
I don't have any tips or tricks to offer though... they are pretty straight forward turning, much like the slimlines... matter of fact, I think the tubes are the same 7mm as the slimline tubes... here are a few of the ones I've turned.. Ebony, Antler, cocobolo.

Please overlook the crappy photos... I'm much better on a lathe with a skew than I am with a lightbox and camera.
 

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Charles

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Here are two sets. I made. The snake was cast diamond rattler and then turned and polished. Still wish they sold a box for these.:wink:
 

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Sabaharr

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I wonder if cutting open the front of a shotgun shell loaded woth #6 or#7.5 would work for a weight source. That 7.5 is tiny and can pack pretty well.
 

jbswearingen

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I wonder if cutting open the front of a shotgun shell loaded woth #6 or#7.5 would work for a weight source. That 7.5 is tiny and can pack pretty well.


Yeah, that could be done, but then I'd have the casing and powder to deal with. I have friends that shoot a lot and load their own; might be able to get some shot from them.
 
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