Coring a bracelet

[shortcast]

I've been turning a lot of wooden bracelets lately. Initially I would turn the blank down to a cylinder approx 3.5" diameter. Then I used a thin kerf parting tool to core the center out. I saved the cores to turn nic naks later.

There was a couple of issues with this. First of all, it was difficult to keep the inside diameter parrallel to the outside. Don't know if it was my inadequate skill or the tool following grain.

Second and worse was that the tool would bind in the kerf. Eventually I snapped my HSS parting tool in two.

Now I core the center with a large diameter forstner bit. Seems like a waste of good wood, but it is a lot easier on my nerves!

Anyway, were these problems due to a lack of time behind the gouge? Is there a better suited tool for what I was trying to accomplish? Should I turn out the light and just go fishing? :redface:

 

[wolftat]

I'm all for the fishing answer.
If your tool is binding in the kerf, you need to use something that won't do that(obviously:wink, maybe try making a wider kerf with something like a fingernail gouge.
In the end, you will have to go fishing anyways, so just try to get to that and worry about the rest later.

 

[holmqer]

A better suited tool would be a Bedan. The parting tool has inadequate side relief to do this task gracefully.

You can make your own Bedan from some HSS square stock. Enco sells 1/4" square M2 HSS, 8" long for ~$6. Grind the tip and sides at say 60 degrees. This will give you adequate side relief that the tool won't bind in the kerf. You would only need to grind the sides back a couple of inches for your use.

 

[snyiper]

Fishing sounds like a fine answer to me!!!!! But to answer your question I do the same to make 6 in holes and I use a parting tool but Ill make the kerf twice the width I keep the outer one where I want it and the inner one just so the debris can be cleared. I have used a skew on its back so to speak but Im a chicken it makes me just too nervous...I think it is that voice saying "you dumb butt what if it catches". Bad things happen if you dont listen to the voice.

 

[Russianwolf]

one other option would be to use a hole saw without the center drill. This will work if you have a fixed internal size you are after. Put it in a jacobs chuck in the tailstock and get going.

Otherwise, snyiper has the right of it. two kerf widths with your parting tool. back and fourth as you go.

The reason you were binding is the sides of your tool are straight and you were cutting a curve. As the tool goes deeper, the sides of the tool get longer. At some point the sides of the tool can't fit the curve any longer.

 

[wb7whi]

You can use the center for a matching pendant. I also use a thin kerf tool and as others have said, make a double kerf.

 

[shortcast]

matching pendant

I like that idea, Wayne. I've seen the pendants but cant wrap my mind around how to do one. Could you describe your method?

 

[MarkD]

There is a tutorial on pendant making:
http://content.penturners.org/library/other_things_we_make/necklace_pendant.pdf

 

[KenV]

Jeff -- Nick Arnull did this article several years ago and it shows a generic way to do it.

There is an aluminum jig sold by several vendors (Ruth Niles is one) that does the same thing and is easier to do more things.

http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=594

The library there is a bood place to look around

There is also a tutorial in the IAP library that takes Nick's article further -

Happy reading

 

[animefan]

I agree with the idea of the hole saw without the drill so you can make matching pendant.

 

[shortcast]

If I can get a "kitchen pass" ( ) for some shop time, I'm gonna try it out tonight.