Color Bleed While Sanding

[jaxcraftworx]

I'm attempting my first segmented pen following all the great tutorials posted here. I'm using bloodwood and (what I think is) maple. I made the checkerboards, and cut off 1/4" segments, then glued them up on a tube. Then I sanded it down to a cylinder, and started turning.

When I was fairly happy with the result, and got down to sanding the cylinder, I noticed some discoloration in the lighter colored maple. And the maple is fragmented somewhat. (Makes me wonder if it's really maple.) The discoloration looks like reddish particles from the bloodwood getting carried over into the lighter maple. I started with 150 grit sandpaper, then went down to 400 grit. The reddish stuff was still there. I turned some more material off, and tried 800 grit sandpaper. Same result.

Am I doing something wrong? I'm new to penturning, but have done some woodworking in the past.

Thanks for any help you folks can pass along.

 

[Jim Boyd]

Try wet sanding with a mineral spirits soaked in a rag or paper towel on the backside of the blank and your sandpaper on the front side. Change the wet rag often.

 

[airrat]

Try wiping it down and see if any of the red comes out. I have tried to combine bloodwood, padauk and a lighter color, always got a little "bleeding"

 

[GBusardo]

Hi, I have had this trouble also. I used some EEE polish and it cleaned it right up. Hope this helps.

 

[mick]

Jack, If you'll turn down to the point where you start sanding ( I use a skew and start sanding at 400 grit.)and "seal" the wood with thin CA You won't get the "bleeding" from the bloodwood. I've turned several diferent glue ups from paduak or bloodwood combined with maple and if I use this method I almost never get the bleed over. Good luck!!! BTW here's a Paduak and Maple glue up I did using thin Ca as a sealer before sanding

<br />

 

[Ron in Drums PA]

You pick the two hardest woods to combine. But I do like the colors you picked

What I do is after I finish turning and before I start sanding I apply a coat of 1# cut of dewaxed shellac to the wood as a sealer.

You can a thined down version of the finish you plan on using.

 

[vick]

Originally posted by Ron in Drums PA
<br />You pick the two hardest woods to combine.

I have to disagree Bloodwood and maple is no picnic but it is not nearly as bad as the Padauk that Arriat mentioned earlier. Padauk has a natural dye in the wood that wants to stain every thing the saw dust touches. I learned that the hard way on a Maple and Padauk chess board. I will never ever do that again!!!![B)]

 

[Ron in Drums PA]

Originally posted by vick
<br />

Originally posted by Ron in Drums PA
<br />You pick the two hardest woods to combine.

I have to disagree Bloodwood and maple is no picnic but it is not nearly as bad as the Padauk that Arriat mentioned earlier. Padauk has a natural dye in the wood that wants to stain every thing the saw dust touches. I learned that the hard way on a Maple and Padauk chess board. I will never ever do that again!!!![B)]

Yeah, padauk and maple is pretty tough, but how about burnt wood?

 

[Ron Mc]

Jack,
Bloodwood and curly maple can be tough. The bloodwood dust loves to settle in the maple so here is how I solve the problem.
First off I see no reason to use 150 grit. Start your sanding process at 600 grit. After you have completed your sanding at about the 800 grit level stop the lathe and take a look. If you notice the dust rub it with sanding sealer and turn the lathe on and wipe off with a cotton cloth. Then sand with your 1000 grit. Stop the lathe and repeat the process. When you have finished your sanding process go ahead and hit it with 2 more coats of sanding sealer and begin your finishing process.

Now.....Ron and Mike...Very nice pens! No bleed and very well done as you know.[]
But I have to disagree. Yes Bloodwood and maple can be a problem, Yes Paduak and Maple can be a problem as well. But I would personally have to throw this one in the bag as the two (well actually three) most difficult combinations of wood types.
<b>Ebony / Bloodwood / Maple</b>

 

[Ron in Drums PA]

[] You Win!!!![]

 

[Jim15]

I don't have an answer to the original question, but the pens you guys are showing are fabulous.

jim

 

[ed4copies]

Bunch of show-offs!!

Thanks for the tips, tho'!

I have also had this problem, now have a FEW potential solutions-THANKS!!!

 

[Randy_]

Originally posted by Ron Mc<br />.....Start your sanding process at 600 grit. After you have completed your sanding at about the 800 grit level stop the lathe and take a look. If you notice the dust <b>rub it with sanding sealer </b>and turn the lathe on and wipe off with a cotton cloth. Then sand with your 1000 grit. Stop the lathe and repeat the process. When you have finished your sanding process go ahead and hit it with 2 more coats of sanding sealer and begin your finishing process.

I'm confused by your statement, Ron. Could you add a bit more detail. Do you blow off the dust or wipe it with DNA? Do you put SS on with the dust and wipe it right off or let it dry first? I'm just not getting it?? Thanks.

 

[Ron Mc]

Randy,
If I notice that dust has been introduced to the crevices in the blanks on the opposing colors then I rub it, or maybe I should say, Clean it with sanding sealer. I will rub first with the grain then against. Then I turn the lathe back on a clean with a clean cloth.
Better said?

 

[jaxcraftworx]

Thanks very much for all the input and tips. I'll try them on my next segmented pen project, and let you know the results. BTW I'm almost convinced the maple I have is a soft maple, not curly maple.