Caswell Buffing - "Pre" step to (white bar) Plastic-Glo P-22?

[Quality Pen]

I'm wondering if there is a more "aggressive" buffing method I can use before I move onto Caswell's highly recommended Plastic-Glo P-22?

It's a good combo with the canton flannel wheel, but I'm wondering if there is something I can use for the times when I need to buff a little more aggressively if I missed a spot with sanding.

Thanks.

 

[MarkD]

You might find this thread helpful:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/f30/buffing-kicked-up-notch-55476/

 

[Quality Pen]

That's the thread that turned me on to Caswell plating. It's good stuff.

I was just wondering if there is a step that I can add before the two steps mentioned in that thread. Something for the times when you need to get out a little scratch.

 

[KenV]

Bobby -- Have a friend who does polishing and buffing for a living -- and he is insistent that you need to step back and get the prior step done well -- and "there ain't no shortcuts to a quality finish". He does not do pens, but makes a good living at what he does very well.

 

[MarkD]

If your looking for a buffing compound that's more aggressive I would contact Caswell plating for their recommendation for your applications. I use the two compounds you listed. Prior to that I will sometimes use the first few micromesh pads and occasionally I'll use a polishing compound on the lathe prior to the buffer. I agree with Ken's comments about having a good finish before going to the buffer. I find that my process varies based on the material so it takes a bit of experimentation.

 

[Ed McDonnell]

I'm wondering if there is a more "aggressive" buffing method I can use before I move onto Caswell's highly recommended Plastic-Glo P-22?

It's a good combo with the canton flannel wheel, but I'm wondering if there is something I can use for the times when I need to buff a little more aggressively if I missed a spot with sanding.

Thanks.

More aggressive buffing isn't always the answer, but if that's what you want then you have two choices for getting more aggressive. Buffs and compounds.

More aggressive buffs

Sisal - Very Aggressive
Spiral sewn cotton - Aggressive.
Loose cotton - more aggressive than canton flannel, less than spiral sewn.

I don't think I would use sisal on plastics.

I've used spirals sewn on resin metal hybrids and as long as you watch the heat it's fine. But it will melt plastic if you aren't careful.

I haven't tried the loose cotton. I generally go right from spiral sewn cotton to canton flannel (with different compounds).

Compounds:

Tripoli (brown) will cut aggressively.

White Rouge is less agressive than tripoli, but seems to me to be more agressive than the plastic polishing compounds.


Wheel speed, buffing pressure, rate at which you move the work are all variables that will change the results with any buff / compound combination. The above is based on the way I use things.

Ed

 

[southernclay]

I did a few tests with it last night. I've read where some are able to skip right to buffing after sanding....not me:biggrin:

I'll be playing around with the different techniques for a while, higher grits etc. I need to try some solid color blanks too, the swirls and different colors throw off perception I think.

Last night the best result I got was sand to 600, MM through all grits, Huts and then buff. I only noticed a slight difference after buffing. Either I'm really good at MM or I've got a lot of practice needed with buffing, most likely the later.

The caswell compound bars are huge so not likely to run out of practice material anytime soon.

I've read many people just go through the first few grits of MM then go to buffing but to me I'd rather just go on through all the pads once I'm set up. I'm not doing production work so a few seconds won't affect much for me at this stage.

If I have any major aha's I'll post up what else I find.

 

[Quality Pen]

Thanks for the infos!

They got back to me and recommended "with caution" to use the following with a loose cotton wheel:

WHITE ROUGE BAR
This compound will cut lightly, bringing most harder metals to a brilliant shine. Designed for polishing chrome and nickel plate, stainless steel and ordinary steels.


I'm not sold on the idea yet, but like others here... I like to experiment. I certainly don't know everything and, like most things in life, techniques evolve!