Casting Avery Labels - help

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Gordon

Gordon

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Apr 25, 2005
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181
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Wichita, KS, USA.
Most of the time I can cast Avery labels (Ink Jet 8250) without a problem - but occassionally the label separates from the brass tube after pressurization (30 psi - 4 drops catalyzt per oz of PR for 5 hours).

It appears that I sometimes leave an unseen gap between the label and the brass tube.

In reading the CASTING forum - some of you are using CA glue to seal the label overlap. I'd like to do this to provide some additional insurance.

Any tips on:

1. Thin/medium/thick CA ?
2. How do you apply the CA - paper cloth/brush/?

Thanks - Gordon
 
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its_virgil

its_virgil

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I don't use CA and I've not had that problem. After wrapping the label around the tube I place it on a clean flat surface, place my hand on top and roll it back and forth with moderate pressure to insure the label is sufficiently stuck to the tube. I also paint the tubes which may give the labels a better surface on which to adhere than the brass tube. I don't really know if these two tips are helpful or if I'm just been lucky so far.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Gordon said:
Most of the time I can cast Avery labels (Ink Jet 8250) without a problem - but occassionally the label separates from the brass tube after pressurization (30 psi - 4 drops catalyzt per oz of PR for 5 hours).

It appears that I sometimes leave an unseen gap between the label and the brass tube.

In reading the CASTING forum - some of you are using CA glue to seal the label overlap. I'd like to do this to provide some additional insurance.

Any tips on:

1. Thin/medium/thick CA ?
2. How do you apply the CA - paper cloth/brush/?

Thanks - Gordon
Click to expand...
 
wood-of-1kind

wood-of-1kind

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Toronto, ON, Canada
Gordon, if you want "extra" protection then apply DOUBLE SIDE (3M tape) or other to the the brass tube and then apply your Avery label over that. Gives additional holding power. Works for me.
 
BRobbins629

BRobbins629

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I think part of the issue may be casting too soon after applying the label in combination with heat of the resin. I don't have any hard and fast evidence, but I do know that many adhesives build strength with time. Its a lot easier to remove masking take right away than after a few days. The same with labels. CA may work, but I would first try letting them sit at least overnight and see if that helps. Also make sure your tubes are oil and grease free. Rough them up with sandpaper and clean with soap and water or solvent. The combination of all these may not totally solve the problem but all are measures of insurance.
 
NewLondon88

NewLondon88

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I haven't had the greatest luck myself, so take what I say with a grain of salt..

But I know that sometimes the labels have come off when I apply them to plain
brass tubes. So I stopped buying the brass tubes and went with the white coated
tubes, or the nickel plated ones. Seems to have stopped that problem.
I have also sprayed them with primer, and none of those labels came off.

I've seen posts by people using CA and they say that it obscures the labels, making
them appear out of focus. And I know that it can affect some inks. The accelerator
definitely makes the inks bleed.
Someone also suggested a thinned white glue over the labels, but that didn't work
out for me..

Sorry, I guess I'm not offering much help .. but the idea of 'time' makes a lot of sense
 
P

polarbear1

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Mar 11, 2007
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Location
Redding, Ca, USA.
I have labeled and cast hundreds of brass tubes and still every 20 -30 a batch or a few pens from a batch the label will come off in the resin, I have not been able to determine exactly why. I use mostly white tubes i purchase the white 10 inch, but have painted brass and used straight brass, and the failure rate is nearly the same. I have had no luck using CA, it often ruins the color. I try to run some sandpaper over the tube prior to putting on the sticker, and I make sure the tube is warm, I'm thinking the warm tube will increase the adhesion of the sticker glue. Next time I do a few I will get half very cold and half very warm to see if maybe that's a variable.
 
NewLondon88

NewLondon88

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Claremont NH
Something along these lines.. one is the tubes in a mold. One tube has
a label on it, done on an inkjet. The mold is full of resin. The other is a
'finished' reject. I put the kit together just to see how it would look, (and
because it was one of the only ones that didn't have air bubbles in it..) but
there's a crack on the back and it is pretty ragged on the ends. I think I
turned it too soon.
 

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Gordon

Gordon

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Apr 25, 2005
Messages
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Location
Wichita, KS, USA.
BRobbins629 said:
I think part of the issue may be casting too soon after applying the label in combination with heat of the resin. I don't have any hard and fast evidence, but I do know that many adhesives build strength with time. Its a lot easier to remove masking take right away than after a few days. The same with labels. CA may work, but I would first try letting them sit at least overnight and see if that helps.

******************

Bruce - I took your advice - applied the labels last night and waited overnight before casting.

Casted 8 blanks with NO problem. May be too soon to tell if this continues to work for me - but so far it looks very promising.

THANKS

Gordon
Click to expand...
 
B

bkersten

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Apr 13, 2008
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Gettysburg, Pa. 17325
I have gone to using the white appliance spray enamel on my tubes and it leaves a very smooth surface. After the label/fabric is rolled on, I use a 3x3 post it note wrapped around it and taped tightly over night to help set its form around the tube. Then I coat the label/fabric tube with Chroma seal color preserver (http://store.scottscustomrods.com/threadmaster.aspx ) that has really helped retain the color in the casting, and slow the soaking in of the PR. I then cast it after a days drying, and have not had any seperations at all so far. This all has worked well for me. Bob
 
JerryS

JerryS

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Jul 12, 2008
Messages
145
Location
Phila Pa
NewLondon88 said:
Something along these lines.. one is the tubes in a mold. One tube has
a label on it, done on an inkjet. The mold is full of resin. The other is a
'finished' reject. I put the kit together just to see how it would look, (and
because it was one of the only ones that didn't have air bubbles in it..) but
there's a crack on the back and it is pretty ragged on the ends. I think I
turned it too soon.
Click to expand...

What is your mold made of ?
 
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