Carbide tools

[kovalcik]

I have a couple home made carbide tools similar to the EZ tool or the woodchuck that Ken sells, but I always seem to gravitate back to my gouge and skew. My problem is I just do not get a good finish with them and I can't seem to find the right cutting angle to get the chips to fly like I have seen in videos. I would like to learn how to use them. Can anyone give a few pointers on how to get the best out of them?

BTW I have one tool that holds the round cutter and another with a square, triangle, and diamond cutters. I have only tried the round and square ones. My square cutter has straight edges, not the radius.

Thanks

 

[randyrls]

I would like to learn how to use them. Can anyone give a few pointers on how to get the best out of them?

Tom; The best way to learn to use the carbide tools is to just use them. As with most efforts, experience equals skill.

My person preference is to use the EWT for wood, not acrylic. It seems too 'grabby" for acrylic.

Generally if a carbide cutter has an angle from 75 to 90 degrees it works well on acrylic, but will leave a rough surface on wood. Cutters from say 45 to 60 degrees work well on wood, but are too "grabby" for acrylic and leave tiny pits on the surface.

I have a round cutter carbide tool sold on Ebay by Joebill1. It works wonderfully well for acrylic. (and yep if you look, those ARE golf club grips!) This tool will peel off strings of ANY synthetic material, even the hardest Trustone.

Be sure to sharpen your cutter occasionally. Remove the cutter from the tool, take off the screw, and lay the cutter with the top surface down against a credit card sized diamond hone. A drop of water or light oil for lube and give it 4 revolutions in a figure eight pattern. Turn 180 degrees and repeat. Wipe and you have a new cutter.

 

[JerrySambrook]

Tom,
Another dependancy is the type of cutter being used.
Some have a more accute angle than others, and are more aggressive, therefore, in wood, they will typically give a lesser finish, or be more prone to chipping out.
It might help to know which cutter type you have.
If it is flat top withan angle of about 70-80 degrees, it should give you a good finish with some practice.
If it a concave top and the cutting angle approaches 50 degrees, then it will be harder to get a good finish with a good bit of practice for most people.
Some just happen to pick up the way the tool should be approached to the wood more readily than others.

Just my .02
Jerry

 

[kovalcik]

Thanks fo rthe input so far. I also have some very basic questions. Assume the square cutter for these. For the record, I believe it is the flat top with straight edges. Not sure of the angle.

Do you rest the tool flat on the toolrest or do you rotate it a bit?

Do you just push the tool straight into the wood or do you angle in and try to ride the bevel?

Where do you want the blade to meet the wood, at center or above center?

The corners always seem to dig in for me. Should I go to the square cutters with a small radius or is there an approach that minimizes this dig in?

I am hoping if I can read how it is supposed to be used then I will have a starting point to start my practicing. Thanks for any further help.

 

[bitshird]

Thanks fo rthe input so far. I also have some very basic questions. Assume the square cutter for these. For the record, I believe it is the flat top with straight edges. Not sure of the angle.

Do you rest the tool flat on the toolrest or do you rotate it a bit?
Do you just push the tool straight into the wood or do you angle in and try to ride the bevel?
Where do you want the blade to meet the wood, at center or above center?
The corners always seem to dig in for me. Should I go to the square cutters with a small radius or is there an approach that minimizes this dig in?
I am hoping if I can read how it is supposed to be used then I will have a starting point to start my practicing. Thanks for any further help.

[size=+2]Let the tool lay flat on the tool rest and parallel to the floor[/size]

[size=+2] Do not try and ride the bevel and don't push too hard on the tool[/size]

[size=+2]As close to the centerline of your work piece as possible, [/size]

[size=+2] I recommend using a radius insert, square inserts will catch and cause tear outs, I prefer the 15-R2 from my self or easy wood tools, the R-4 is also a good insert that won't hook the corners.[/size]

 

[Leviblue]

I bought the woodchuck tool from Ken as well as I own an EWT. Ken's tool is my go to tool for acrylics. It will pull the ribbons off and leaves a smooth finish.
As stated in the thread, try the tools and follow Ken's advise. It takes getting used to.

 

[jasontg99]

I use Peter's (wood-of-1kind) Skogger and Rotundo. I use both extensively now. I can't even tell you the last time I used my gouge or skew.

 

[ohiococonut]

I use mine just as Ken described and my woodchuck pen pro just flat out works. I can't say enough good things about it, seriously.

 

[Minotbob]

I use mine just as Ken described and my woodchuck pen pro just flat out works. I can't say enough good things about it, seriously.

Ditto. I haven't even picked up any of my other tools since I got one of Ken's.

 

[Timbo]

Thanks fo rthe input so far. I also have some very basic questions. Assume the square cutter for these. For the record, I believe it is the flat top with straight edges. Not sure of the angle.

Do you rest the tool flat on the toolrest or do you rotate it a bit?

Do you just push the tool straight into the wood or do you angle in and try to ride the bevel?

Where do you want the blade to meet the wood, at center or above center?

The corners always seem to dig in for me. Should I go to the square cutters with a small radius or is there an approach that minimizes this dig in?

I am hoping if I can read how it is supposed to be used then I will have a starting point to start my practicing. Thanks for any further help.

I believe the cutting edge of the two tools I use are very similar to yours. I've been using them for a couple of years with success. I know they WILL work for you...BUT...don't expect them to work like the tools sold by the good folks here. Most don't have straight edge square cutters, and the very non-agressive 83 deg (as best I can measure it) angle. Using both tools I get good results on both wood and acrylic. If you're going to stick with these tools here's what I recommend.

Adjust the tool height to cut just below center as you present the tool level with the floor. My tools will NOT cut above centerline...they just rub on the bevel.

Adjust the tool rest to keep it close to the blank as you turn it down. This supports the tool better, and helps prevent catches. I'll often do this when I get about 2/3 roughed away.

The square tool is NOT suitable for roughing. The combination of the non-agressive angle, and the broad edge, makes for poor cutting action. Only use the round tool for roughing. I get chips flying off wood and ribbons peeling off acrylic when using the round tool. However, the round tool will not leave a real smooth surface. Use it to get close to your finish profile, then switch to the square tool.

Hold the square tool level, but don't present it straight on to the blank. Angle it such that it touches the blank close to, but not touching the corner of the bit, then rotate it close to the other corner of the bit. Repeat this action back and forth along the lenght of the blank until your finished profile is reached. This action removes thin shavings of material, leveling and smoothing the blank as you go along. It'll take a little practice, but once you get it down it goes pretty quickly.

I hope this helps. PM me if you have any questions.

 

[kovalcik]

Thanks for all the help. I plan on ordering one of the radiused edge cutters and to try out some of the tips.

Thanks to everyone who responded.

 

[KenV]

Tom -- the insert does make a difference!!! I have tried some of the inserts for planers with assurance from others that they worked just the same -- and they do not. (my feel is about 60%) - and curves make a difference.

The inserts for metal will give you lots of problems as the edges are well suited for steel but not wood and acrylics (and any machinist will tell you that different media cuts differently).

Get cutters from Ken or Craig and you success will go up with the flat inserts. I suggest you get screws to match the cutter and assure the insert if fully supported. Carbide is on the brittle side and can break if there are missed matched surfaces in the screw of the recess it mounts into.

 

[sbell111]

Tom -- the insert does make a difference!!! I have tried some of the inserts for planers with assurance from others that they worked just the same -- and they do not. (my feel is about 60%) - and curves make a difference.

It should be noted that the R4 inserts ARE planer inserts.