bottle stopper advice

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glycerine

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I'm finally going to try something other than pens. I got a bottle stopper kit and will probably try turning one soon. Is there anything I should know before I get to it? Tips or tricks? Common mistakes? Good or bad woods to use? Thanks.
 
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JimMc7

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I'm no expert, having done 10 or so, but biggest problem I had was drilling too large a hole in softer wood -- the threads caught, but only just!

I purchased the Ruth Niles' introductory kit of drill bit (23/64"), 10 stoppers and mandrel. Bit works great for acrylics, but I'll step down 1/64" or so on the next wood stopper I do. I've only done Madrone Burl in the wood and it is a bit soft.

Edit to add: I also recommend these stopper blocks with embedded roses & such (from Ed Davidson, sold by AS):
http://www.arizonasilhouette.com/3D_Bottle_Stopper_Blocks.htm

You'll also find link to video and instructions at above link.
 
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jleiwig

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Monroe, Ohio, USA.
I'm finally going to try something other than pens. I got a bottle stopper kit and will probably try turning one soon. Is there anything I should know before I get to it? Tips or tricks? Common mistakes? Good or bad woods to use? Thanks.

Don't expect a quality CA finish if you put lots of sharp beads or coves in it. I made this bottle stopper a while ago,
1_IMG_1735.jpg


And I probably spent 3-4 hours getting the finish just right. Next time I will probably set up to spray laquer if I do one with the sharp beads and coves.
 

Gary Simmons

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Nov 22, 2009
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stoppers

I use the Ruth Niles stainless steel stoppers as well. Great product. Posters are right however, soft woods can get loose when on the lathe, one catch and it stops turning. On softer woods I move the tailstock up until the body is done, then remove and finish the top of it.

I have found that Deft semi-gloss, frictioned on works great. Very durable.

Have fun.
 

robutacion

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The only recommendation that I will make is, don't make bottle stoppers with point bits at the end (head). Bottle stoppers are inserted using the palm of the hand and most times the final seal is made by that "magical" smack at the bottle stopper head so, they should be made with a smooth surface, and will give anyone hundreds of different possible designs and shapes!

Yeah, cheap stuff has bad platings that will corrode and peal off pretty quickly after use so, chose a good quality kit and kip the design/shape" functional!:biggrin:

Cheers
George
 

glycerine

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The only recommendation that I will make is, don't make bottle stoppers with point bits at the end (head). Bottle stoppers are inserted using the palm of the hand and most times the final seal is made by that "magical" smack at the bottle stopper head so, they should be made with a smooth surface, and will give anyone hundreds of different possible designs and shapes!

Yeah, cheap stuff has bad platings that will corrode and peal off pretty quickly after use so, chose a good quality kit and kip the design/shape" functional!:biggrin:

Cheers
George

I never thought of that. Thanks.
 

Sberger

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Oct 12, 2009
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Rockport, TX.
Making bottle stoppers is tough with just the screw threads to hold it. Soft woods like cedar are really difficult and will usually strip out. Those always become a cork type stopper with a 3/8" dowel guled into the cork and the turning. The cork stoppers are not as flashy, but are a lot cheaper. Try to turn between centers as far as possible and go really easy on the end. Get a catch there and the whole thing is on wobble. A little experience will teach you a lot. They are fun!
Steve
 

RAdams

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Alot of "wine" people tend to stay away from cork stoppers. Stainless is the way to go. If you strip the inside, a little glue and a toothpick is a quick and easy save.
 

great12b4ever

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Houston, Texas, USA.
As for the softer woods, I drill and thread my hole in the blank,remove it and put 2-3 quick coats of CA in the hole, then one coat of medium CA. When dry, I rethread and turn. The CA seems to penetrate the wood and strengthen the fibers enough for good threads.
At least this works for me.
 
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