board bowls

[carpblaster]

started turning some bowls for a change from the pens and stuff,
right now there just plain ole poplar bowls made from a 9" flat board,I always hated wasting all that good wood when turning a bowl, now i turn the rings,glue them ,sand,finish and wa-la something different.my first bowl,i know the pictures are not great ,

 

[Joe S.]

I've been messing with this idea, how to you line up the rings?

 

[Bob Wemm]

Nice job Rodney.
The ring master is becomming very popular, I believe the Manufacturer is having problems with keeping up with the demand.
Sure is a good way to get a bowl from a square board more or less 3/4 - 1in thick.

Thanks for showing.

Bob.

 

[robutacion]

Yeah, the idea is growing mostly due to our friend Mr. William Young that went "full monty" with the system and is doing very well in all aspects...!

Not surprised that the manufacturer is flat out keeping out with the orders, I mention that long again when William introduced it to all of us here in IAP,I remember to say that I would expect a great increase of sales of this product as that the manufacturer should offer some sales commission to one of the persons that gave a big "push" to the product usability and efficiency on wood wastage, against the traditional (turn the core into savings) bowl turning...!

If wasn't for the simple fact that, I have more logs/wood that could be turn traditionally if I want, to last me a "few" years, I would seriously consider this system, that is the best option to those that the only wood available to them is the type that one gets in a hardware store (flat boards).

There is only one thing that I don't like about it and that is that damn hole at the base of the piece...!
If I ever buy one, I will make sure the very first thing I would do would be to work out a way to modify the need for that hole in such way, I'm sure that, there will be a way and I would find it with a unit in front of me to test...!:wink:

Cheers
George

 

[plantman]

George; I have had the Ring Master for my Shop Smith for 20 years or more, and have a couple answers for your conserns about the hole in the center. First of all there are four reasons why the hole is there. First is of course is to hold your board, centered on your power source. Second is to align your disks for matching gains and applying glue. Third is to allow the jig rod to protrude out the bottom of your set up and allow a flat board to be placed on top and even clamping pressure to be applied. Key words being EVEN PRESSURE. Forth reason, now you can use the hole to remount your finished project back on your power head or lathe and finish sanding inside and out. That's the why part of it. Here is the how to avoid the hole part of it. I have adapted a screw chuck to my Ring Master to hold the board in place. I also have hot glued a board with a countersunk bolt to the bottom of some boards to avoid a hole. Sometimes I will plug the hole with Ebony or some other contrasting color wood to make it stand out as a design feature rather than hide it. Bad thing about not having the hole is alignment and even clamping pressure. Hope this helps you and others who use this very interesting and wood saving machine. Thanks to Bill for bringing the Ring Master back into the spotlight, It's been around quite awile and almost forgotten. Jim S

 

[carpblaster]

The rings are lined up with either math,or a PAG,(Precision alignment gauge),there is a chart out there when you get all the measurments to what angle you put the cutting blades, the ring is no problem you can sometimes get them close,I believe the one in my picture the first one i did and you have to look hard to see the hole, You could do away with the threaded bolt on the ringmaster,,and glue a piece on the board like on the lathe, but its easer to do it on the bolt,Before i did buy the RM i did it free had, lots of sanding that way,and theycame out nice, but this way im not free handing and it safe,Check it out its fun to take a change from making pens,I am actually enjoying it more than making pens