best way to prep snake skin for casting...

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

JohnU

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
4,988
Location
Ottawa, Illinois
I've had mixed results with snake skins but still like to try my luck because I love the results when they turns out. I usually salt and dry the skin for several weeks, changing the salt to get the oils out of the skin but Im wondering if there's a better or quicker way with good results. I usually lose scales as I cast and have them float around. Im open for any ideas or suggestions... Thanks in advanced.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

rherrell

Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2006
Messages
6,338
Location
Pilot Mountain, NC
I remove the scales completely, that leaves fewer places for trapped air. I bought a lifetimes worth of skins already tanned a few years ago so I can't help you with the tanning part, but I'm sure somebody will.:wink:
 

workinforwood

Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
8,173
Location
Eaton Rapids, Michigan, USA.
You do need to scrape the loose scales away with a stiff brush. Usually after tanning, a fresh dead layer appears on top to be removed. After that, black tubes and glue to tubes..obviously. Then brush a thin layer of PR with a little catalyst over the skins and bake in the oven. Then cast the skins as per usual..the resinsaver molds would be a good idea.
 

traderdon55

Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2008
Messages
600
Location
New Boston, Texas, USA.
I can't speak from experience as I am planning to try my first snake skin next week but I have a file on tanning skins that was sent to me by Don Ward. If you send me your e-mail address I will be happy to send it to you.
 

its_virgil

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2004
Messages
8,142
Location
Wichita Falls, TX, USA.
Remove all of the scales and let Traderdon55 send you the tanning instructions. The skins come out soft tanned and work great for casting.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

I've had mixed results with snake skins but still like to try my luck because I love the results when they turns out. Im open for any ideas or suggestions... Thanks in advanced.
 

JohnU

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
4,988
Location
Ottawa, Illinois
I appreciate all the help. I was afraid of losing color and texture on the skin if I lost the scales. Thanks a bunch, John
 

NewLondon88

Local Chapter Leader
Joined
May 15, 2008
Messages
5,077
Location
Claremont NH
I appreciate all the help. I was afraid of losing color and texture on the skin if I lost the scales. Thanks a bunch, John

I was just thinking .. I have several skins that are light gray, so I haven't
cast them yet. But I've seen people mentioning that their skins turned
dark after casting. For me, this would be good.

Is there something I should do 'wrong' to make sure they darken?
 

JohnU

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
4,988
Location
Ottawa, Illinois
I was just thinking .. I have several skins that are light gray, so I haven't
cast them yet. But I've seen people mentioning that their skins turned
dark after casting. For me, this would be good.

Is there something I should do 'wrong' to make sure they darken?

Im not sure, Ive only cast rattlesnake and in the past just dried them with salt. Hopefully someone with more experience will speak up.
 

workinforwood

Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
8,173
Location
Eaton Rapids, Michigan, USA.
I was just thinking .. I have several skins that are light gray, so I haven't
cast them yet. But I've seen people mentioning that their skins turned
dark after casting. For me, this would be good.

Is there something I should do 'wrong' to make sure they darken?

use brass black on the tubes. Always black the tubes, and it will darken the skins as well because you will be able to see through the skins when cast.
 

Freethinker

Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2007
Messages
275
Location
MO.
A fellow in this area rolls the skin up backwards --loosely-- puts it in a coffee can and fills the can with automotive antifreeze.

When removed, (after a couple of days) the skin is quite green colored....he says he hangs it on a board for awhile and the green color gradually leaches out/goes way and that the skin is perfectly soft and preserved.

I dunno.....

other than that......

http://www.taxidermy.com/ ...then /Products ..then /Reptile tanning kits

True-Tan Reptile & Amphibian Tanning Kit
Even a beginner will be able to tan a snake skin like a pro when using this easy-to-follow, two-step tanning method. The instructions explain how to skin the snake using a sharp knife, scissors, and puffed borax. Next the dry chemical is mixed with water and the skin is left in this solution overnight. The hide is stretched and pinned flat to dry while the tanning oil is periodically brushed into the skin. The resulting tanned hide can be made into a flat rug wall hanging, a belt or a hatband. This kit will tan up to two large snakes. Cannot be shipped by air.

True-Tan Reptile & Amphibian Tanning Kit Includes:
* 3 oz. Puffed Borax
* 1 cup dry Reptile Tanning Chemical
* 8 oz. Reptile Tanning Oil
* Snake Skinning and Tanning Step-by-Step Instructions


Code Item Description S.W. Price
HK20 True-Tan Reptile & Amphibian Tanning Kit 1 lb. 17.95
 

lpierce65

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2008
Messages
149
Location
Brazil, Indiana
I had a friend of mine donate a 20 year old snake skin of friend of his tanned the skin he said the skin needed a coat of glycerin every now and then. He said he applied it once 20 years ago, skin seems soft and pliable Still has the rattlers on it and rolled on a cardboard tube in a plastic bag. think its ok to use? when I feel I'm good enough to try my had at it ? any suggestions ?
 
Top Bottom