OK guys a few observations/questions.
I have an ash baseball bat billet on the lathe now, it is a lot harder to turn his shape that I thought it would be.
The wood moves so much and as I get the handle smaller it is getting worse. I started with the fat part of the bat at the drive end and turned about 70% but as the grip got down to about 1.5" the wood is jumping pretty bad. I turned it around so the knob end is now at the drive end and will finish it that way.
I am using a carbide R2 cutter, it seems better about 3/8" above center line.
I was hoping to get the grip down to 1", but I think 1.25" is more realistic. If I were to do this again, I would invest in a spindle steady rest.
I have designed a trademark stamp and will use a toner/heat transfer to place it.
Now for questions
should I apply the transfer directly to the wood or should I put a coat or two of varnish on it first?
Can I varnish over the toner transfer to seal it.
I want the barrel darker than the grip, dose it matter what kind of stain I use.
Thanks
I have an ash baseball bat billet on the lathe now, it is a lot harder to turn his shape that I thought it would be.
The wood moves so much and as I get the handle smaller it is getting worse. I started with the fat part of the bat at the drive end and turned about 70% but as the grip got down to about 1.5" the wood is jumping pretty bad. I turned it around so the knob end is now at the drive end and will finish it that way.
I am using a carbide R2 cutter, it seems better about 3/8" above center line.
I was hoping to get the grip down to 1", but I think 1.25" is more realistic. If I were to do this again, I would invest in a spindle steady rest.
I have designed a trademark stamp and will use a toner/heat transfer to place it.
Now for questions
should I apply the transfer directly to the wood or should I put a coat or two of varnish on it first?
Can I varnish over the toner transfer to seal it.
I want the barrel darker than the grip, dose it matter what kind of stain I use.
Thanks
