two part PR blanks

[watch_art]

OKay - I ordered some custom PR from Slabs, and they delivered - boy did they deliver! This stuff is PERFECT. Exactly what I wanted. Beautiful!

But... sigh... the two parts don't want to stick together.

We're working on solutions for later orders (and yes there will be more orders) but for now we're thinking to just soak it with CA as I turn it so it holds together. I had a bit of a blow out last night as I was turning a barrel down. There wasn't enough of the poured PR holding things together. THis stuff would be perfect on a component pen, and I may have to use these for that, but eventually I'm going to win. You hear me!!? :biggrin:

Here are some pics of this lovely stuff. I was wanting something to replicate an old Waterman celluloid which they called turquoise. Used it on their Patrician.


turquoise by snennewton, on Flickr


007 by snennewton, on Flickr


008 by snennewton, on Flickr

A finished section. It all held together fine except for the threads, which I covered in super glue and then threaded. It's good now, though. I wonder how it would stand up to some use and abuse?


001 (2) by snennewton, on Flickr


002 by snennewton, on Flickr

And then a sad sad bit of news. I was REALLY tired when turning this - I may have been pushing on it harder than I realize. I had started seeing double by this point - so maybe it's my fault?


005 by snennewton, on Flickr

Man, I hope so. It's SO PRETTY!


001 by snennewton, on Flickr

Thoughts?

 

[desertrat]

Try sanding lightly before casting, I had problems and it turned out to be a film of release left on them from previous casting.

John H

 

[watch_art]

I thought of that too. Would be a slow process to sand all the little chunks - but worth it in the end. Is there a way I could do it chemically? Like wash it in ammonia or something? Acetone would end up melting it - what about paint thinner?

 

[desertrat]

Sand the slabs before breaking up. If the release is silicone based it will be hard to remove chemicaly without causing damage.

John H

 

[paintspill]

I thought of that too. Would be a slow process to sand all the little chunks - but worth it in the end. Is there a way I could do it chemically? Like wash it in ammonia or something? Acetone would end up melting it - what about paint thinner?

careful with paint thinner. it would leave an oily residue. something stronger will flash off. but as mentioned could melt stuff.

 

[watch_art]

Hmm. So sanding before breaking. That sound pretty good.

 

[1080Wayne]

Another possible contributing factor . Your first close up photo , particularly the left side , suggests that your tool was not as sharp as it should have been . That causes you to put more pressure on the blank , which in turn requires a better bond between the parts .

If you can`t make it work , I will be delighted to take them off your hands .

 

[watch_art]

THis?



007 by snennewton, on Flickr

If so, the left side of the blank hadn't been turned down yet. I bet you're partly right though. I'm using a carbide tool. No chisels. Mine are dull as wood. I need to get them sharpened. :/

 

[watch_art]

Done!!
A whole lot of patience and a whole lotta super glue.


pen (2) by snennewton, on Flickr


pen (3) by snennewton, on Flickr


pen (4) by snennewton, on Flickr


pen by snennewton, on Flickr

 

[desertrat]

Great looking pen, I think I would have to keep this one.
"GOOD JOB"

John H

 

[Sylvanite]

Would be a slow process to sand all the little chunks - but worth it in the end. Is there a way I could do it chemically?

Once it has cured, polyester resin will not bond chemically with more polyester resin. It needs mechanical adhesion, which means you have to rough-up the surface, giving it some "tooth" to grip onto. Light scuffing with 400g (or coarser) sandpaper will do the job. Yes, it's tedious, but I don't know of a chemical alternative.

Regards,
Eric

 

[watch_art]

Would this work better made from alumilite?

 

[1080Wayne]

Alumilite is a much tougher plastic than PR . It will be more difficult to fracture into small pieces , and maybe not even possible without some serious chilling . It will bond to itself if a second pour is made within a day , and maybe longer . Have not tried encapsulating PR in it , but would suspect that the bond would be just mechanical .

Recommend Mesquiteman`s articles in the library on Alumilite . He has much more experience than the rest of us .

 

[jeweler53]

I am brand new at casting, so accept my pardon if this sounds dumb. I use "pam" as a release agent. It seems to wash away with soap and water since it is just oil. Would that help?

 

[Dan_F]

Shawn --- That's a really beautiful pen!

Sounds like there are some challenges posed by this process, but I wish you luck in getting it figured out. I love that look in vintage pens, and the few modern alternatives lack the pizazz of the originals, except for yours.

Dan

 

[Dustygoose]

Beautiful Shawn. I hope you are going to the May meeting. I wana pick your brain. I'm wanting to start kitless.

 

[watch_art]

Thanks everybody!
And heck yes I'll be at the May meeting. THat seems so far away though.
Only 7 weeks of school left then TURN BABY TURN!!

I hope I've mentioned this, but I got the material from
http://www.slabsblanksandboards.com/pen-blanks---pr-blanks.html

 

[jfoh]

Easy way to "sand" your small parts would be to tumble them with an abrasive. I would use a rock polishing tumbler. Harbor Freight has one that is very little money. Break up you sheet goods into the size you want then drop it into the tumbler with an abrasive. Run for only a short time. Run too long and you will polish it.

Other way is to sand blast the small parts. Place in mesh bag and blast away. Parts will shift in bag and the sand will abrade different areas as they move.

 

[watch_art]

OOOOh! Good idea!

 

[Sylvanite]

I was thinking of using a small wire wheel.

 

[BSea]

I got to see this 1st hand yesterday. As most everyone know knows, pictures don't do pen justice. Even good pictures. And this pen is no exception. It looks so much better in person. Great job Shawn.

 

[nava1uni]

I think that the problem is the same as what can happen with any embedded object. If the tools are not sharp and the turning is too aggressive then the embedded objects can pop out. I find that turning threads first and then applying thin CA works better. you can clean them up by gently re-threading. It could also be because casting was not done properly.

 

[watch_art]

Thanks Bob!

And nava1uni, I think the fact that the two parts aren't chemically bonded is the main problem, like has been mentioned above. To finally get it working, I did use lots of CA. Daggum that stuff is awful. My eyes were on FIRE. But it worked.

 

[maxman400]

Great looking pen.