Novus 3 questions

[Carl Fisher]

So I've always gone through 3 of my acrylic pads (micro-mesh but thicker grains) and then jumped to Novus 2. I bought a bottle of Novus 3 to see how much I could shave off the finishing time which is currently about 10 minutes start to finish on each single tube resin piece.

What speed are you using to get the best results? I notice that it dries much quicker applying than the 2 does and I'm not sure at which point to really stop and move on to 2.

Should 3 be able to pick up where 600 leaves off?

etc...

 

[longbeard]

Carl, i use the slowest speed. With the lathe stopped, i will put a drop of #3 on a cotton towel, turn the lathe by hand going back and forth a few times, then i turn the lathe on and go back and forth a few times like that, then with a clean piece i wipe it clean with the lathe on. Then use #2 the same. Hope that helpsand make sense

Oh, i will use 4 to 6 of the MM pads depending on the shine i want, then novus.
If you turn an acrylic blank, turn it round to a point, then use your novus without sanding, that will tell you just how good novus works, especially if its a clear cast blank.

 

[Carl Fisher]

Thanks Harry.

I was playing around and it definitely looks like slower is better for the 3 and not much time or pressure. 2 seems to like a little more speed similar to a friction polish for wood.

 

[longbeard]

I have belts, so i dont change speed.

 

[edstreet]

Novus #3 is Alumina 10-30% by weight. It will remove 600-800 grit scratch marks. It is also aggressive in it's approach and very effective. The cleaning agent helps the alumina in producing the polished results.


Novus #2 is Silica, Amorphous, Diatomaceous Earth 3-7% by weight. It will remove 1,500 grit marks. The liquid agents are more carrier based than cleaners thus rendering it less aggressive than #3.


If you are using Either of these products you do not need to use micromesh at all.

The reason #3 dries faster than #2 is that #3 uses Dipropylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether while #2 uses Odorless Mineral Spirits, Morpholine and Oleic Acid.

Sometimes #3 leaves a 'haze' on the surface material and #2 will remove that haze. Other than that you can stop at #3.

Slow Speed vs Fast speed; not so much important as both will net the same results fairly quickly. Even using these two products by hand rubbing the surface (i.e. cultured marble sink). When you compare speeds the way you did you are essentially trying to match the aggressiveness differences between #3 and #2.

I have documented several times (here on IAP) where Novus #3 can almost fully remove scratch marks left from 400 grit sandpaper. i.e. http://www.penturners.org/forum/f56/dragon-sceptre;-gent-tube-conversion-114232/

Hope this clears up things greatly.

 

[Carl Fisher]

I did see your previous postings but didn't find anywhere that it actually talked about how it's best applied.

I wasn't able to remove 600-grit sanding marks with any method that I've tried so far. I go through 3 steps of acrylic pads (basically micro mesh with slightly larger grains) at 800, 1500, and 2400. Then jump to Novus 3. Anything less doesn't seem to remove all of the scratches. Novus 3 seems to leave more of a satin finish. Novus 2 brings that almost to where I want it and a quick hit on the flannel wheel does the rest to bring out the shine.

I may pick up some 800 or 1000 gold flex and see if I can go right from there to Novus without the acrylic pads.

 

[edstreet]

Deep scratches it will not remove. Some of the super hard materials you would need to go beyond 800 grit to say 1,500 grit range.

As for application goes I use a standard white shop towel (paper towel) I also use the loose skin at the base of the thumb as that will guarantee me no heat build up. I have used it with a variety of materials, skin, paper towel, wash cloth, old t-shirts.

The satin finish you are describing is likely the haze that I mentioned. I am curious what material you are using.

 

[Carl Fisher]

This was on the black/gold PR blank that I posted recently in SOYP. I haven't tried on any of the other resins yet.

 

[edstreet]

Ok, follow up question. Since you mentioned dries much quicker and the non-glossy finish (satin/hazy) it does sound like residue is being burnished on the surface of the blank. It should give you a glossy finish.

Few things I would like to ask about and not sure which, if any, applies in your case. Heat build up does happen the finer grit you use. So from the drying out and being burnished that could be speed rpm (what rpm are you using?), continue to use the dry towel could be the problem as could using to little novus.

Once it does dry out just take and wipe it off and stop any type of buffing action at that time. If the residue overheats that would be a reaction with the blank material resulting in the hazing.

Size wise I use around a quarter size applied directly to the paper towel and when it meets the blank it takes some time before it's dried out, guessing 20-30 seconds or so?

 

[Justturnin]

Great thread. I just got 2 bottles each of #2 & #3 and this is good info.

 

[Carl Fisher]

Interesting.

Speed is 450 as marked on the lathe. I'm sure that's +/- but it's an approximate. I have so far used 2 different types of paper towel. Basic bounty and the thicker white shop towels (rags in a box). I have been trying to apply similar to how I use Novus 2. A pea sized amount and run it until glossy.

With Novus 3, I did notice that when applying with the lathe on the paper towel seems to tear pretty quickly as soon as it runs dry and gets grabby. From what your saying, it sounds like I'm using too little product and that might be a good place to start.

It's definitely not a haze that can be wiped off but more of as you say a burnishing.

 

[edstreet]

This is the amount that I put on. Also the container that I use. The flip top lid comes in very handy, does not clog up, easy to operate one handed and the bottle can be bought in the travel section of just about any department store for under $1. Also if the bottle gets damaged then it's not end of the world.

Also just because I put out that amount of Novus does not mean it all goes on at once. I will feed it to the blank over time, I start working at the end and pull the blob out of the blank and use the section above the blob to work that in then add more. If you put all on at once it will sling it all over the room which is bad bad and bad. I could go with less amount and recharge the towel more often but I choose not to

The other thing to note is because I focus on one spot on the towel that spot becomes wet so the blank does not really dry out. At the end of the session I will use my palm in place of the towel and that to gives finer polishing