THUYA BURL?? Anyone use this before?

[JeremyLP]

A client of mine came to me with three Thuya burl blanks and wants some Cambridge pens made from them. No problems. I cut and drilled the holes, and while drilling I noticed some residue... initially I had thought that it was still wet. After checking with the client to see where he got it, I was satisfied that it was not green wood. Just really, really, really oily.

Turning the blanks was nice, as it gave a really nice smell, similar to some cedar burl that I have.

I am using CA as my finish, and would like to get at least 10 coats on them before I polish them. But what I have noticed, is that this stuff is impossible to sand as the paper gums up almost on contact (I ended up using steel wool) and the CA takes a long time to cure.

Does anyone have any experience finishing this stuff? Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance,
Jeremy

 

[jttheclockman]

A client of mine came to me with three Thuya burl blanks and wants some Cambridge pens made from them. No problems. I cut and drilled the holes, and while drilling I noticed some residue... initially I had thought that it was still wet. After checking with the client to see where he got it, I was satisfied that it was not green wood. Just really, really, really oily.

Turning the blanks was nice, as it gave a really nice smell, similar to some cedar burl that I have.

I am using CA as my finish, and would like to get at least 10 coats on them before I polish them. But what I have noticed, is that this stuff is impossible to sand as the paper gums up almost on contact (I ended up using steel wool) and the CA takes a long time to cure.

Does anyone have any experience finishing this stuff? Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance,
Jeremy

If you are convinced it is dry in nature then being oily, wipe it down with acetone before sealing with 3 or 4 coats of THIN CA first. As far as sanding goes before finishing try to get a good blank just by using your tools and for me the tool of choice is a skew. I go from skew to finish. No sanding. If sanding is necessary, Use good open coat sandpaper. Not all sandpaper is created equal. Again just my opinion.

 

[JeremyLP]

John, I have read that the wood is naturally really oily. This particular burl actually grows underground.

I even tried to wipe one of the blanks down with Everclear. (97% corn alcohol, that I use for shellac) to see if that would help, but it did not seem to have any effect.

I am somewhat leaning towards and wondering if my CA (which has been around for a while) should just be replaced with a new one.

 

[jttheclockman]

John, I have read that the wood is naturally really oily. This particular burl actually grows underground.

I even tried to wipe one of the blanks down with Everclear. (97% corn alcohol, that I use for shellac) to see if that would help, but it did not seem to have any effect.

I am somewhat leaning towards and wondering if my CA (which has been around for a while) should just be replaced with a new one.

Well that is a whole other story. Can't help you there.

 

[mikebpeters]

yeah, I have used thuya some and it truly is oily sounds like you are on the right track with it and you can make some stunning pens with it.

 

[NittanyLion]

John, I have read that the wood is naturally really oily. This particular burl actually grows underground.

I even tried to wipe one of the blanks down with Everclear. (97% corn alcohol, that I use for shellac) to see if that would help, but it did not seem to have any effect.

I am somewhat leaning towards and wondering if my CA (which has been around for a while) should just be replaced with a new one.

Jeremy,

Was it stabilized? If so, it sounds like a bad stabilization.

 

[mikespenturningz]

I have turned thuya many times and it is great to work with.

 

[Mack C.]

wipe it down with acetone before sealing with 3 or 4 coats of THIN CA first.

My preference is to wipe down with CA accelerator, which is more compatible with CA.

 

[Monty]

Like Mac suggested, wipe it down with CA accelerator just prior to sealing with fresh thin CA. If your CA seems somewhat thicker than when you bought it, it is getting old and will take longer to dry.

 

[jttheclockman]

wipe it down with acetone before sealing with 3 or 4 coats of THIN CA first.

My preference is to wipe down with CA accelerator, which is more compatible with CA.

I am old school Mack. Been using acetone for years on many things and oily woods is one of them.

 

[snyiper]

"I even tried to wipe one of the blanks down with Everclear. (97% corn alcohol, that I use for shellac) to see if that would help, but it did not seem to have any effect."

Yea right Ill have to try that one next time LOML finds the bottle....LOL no really honey its for finishes!!!!

 

[JeremyLP]

I did buy a new CA today, and my guess that it was the CA was correct. The new stuff is curing exactly as it should and I suspect that it was the issue all along. I will post pictures when they are done and polished.

Yes Glenn, it is only for shellac.
http://lumberjocks.com/JeremyPringle/blog/32932

 

[thewishman]

Those are some gorgeous drawer fronts!

 

[farmer]

thuya





Farmer

 

[PenMan1]

Wipe with CA accelerator between each sanding coat, and then use 2-3 coats of accelerator after the sanding process is complete.

FWIW: I've found that the final sanding with the lathe running in reverse (if your lathe doesn't have reverse-it's and easy upgrade done by changing the on/of switch) REALLY Enhances the finished product and keeps from clogging up the Abranet.

Respectfully submitted.