Segmenting and How To Questions

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Tullyamo

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Joined
Mar 13, 2010
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33
Hello All, Happy Easter First of All and Happy 180th General Conference for any LDS members.

My question this morning comes from the past 4 weeks of cutoffs from all the blanks I have done. Some of the cutoffs are big and some small. I would like to try my luck with segmenting, but I am unsure of how to segment in the first place. I would assume all I need is to take some of those blanks, slice them in half and incorportate them into a full blank that I am intending on using for a pen. I would think that would be the simplest of segmenting. I have kinda searched the forums for a tutorial, however, my extreme lack of sleep after assisting surgery for the past 23 hours, and kiddos screaming has left me... making a post on how to do this.

I would like to eventually get to the point, I know it was a goof up, but someone posted a pen they have segmented and called it "Matrix" due to clamp slipping.

Thanks in advance for any and all advice and or direction. ^^
 
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mick

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Mar 13, 2005
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Decatur AL, USA
Was this it?
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60314

I've got to clear the air here...I was being facetious when I titled my post. The pen was meant to look as it does.

As to how to do it?
This blank started out as some 3/8" stock. I think mine was around 10"x3". I glued the two pieces together( I used Padauk and Holly) giving me a piece 3/4" thick. From this I ripped 1/4" strips. For this particular pen I used three of the strips and glued them together flipping the center strip over, making a blank of six alternating segments. Light, dark, light on top and dark, light, dark on bottom. Next cut into random lengths and glue back together rotating individual pieces in no particular pattern.

Hope this can get you started!
Mike

BTW welcome to the forum!
 

Mac

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Feb 15, 2008
Messages
532
Location
Bingen, Arkansas
The sky is the limit.
When I first started making pens, I would cut some of the leftovers at an angle drill them insert brass and add to the blank one at a time or clue up as a blank then drill offset or straight. Someone in my local AAW club made a bowl called generations, so I made a pen the same way .Clue different colored blanks together, then with a saw, I used a miter saw slice every 5/16'' or so at an angle at or about 15 degrees ,flip every other piece and clue back together and flip and saw again every flip is a generation.The bowl was a 3rd generation ,I made the pens a 4th or 5th generation. Make blank longer to start ,so you want saw it all away(saw kerf)You might even glue four together to have a larger blank as well as a longer one before you start.
Every pen that I have made these different ways I have sold. Guess I need to do another round of them...
 

mick

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Joined
Mar 13, 2005
Messages
2,608
Location
Decatur AL, USA
I use CA but wood glue will work also.
I normally clamp my blanks and once I'm happy with the alignment of everything I use thin CA and let it wick into the joints.
Another trick I've learned is after you build the basic blank drill it before you cut the individual segments and stack the pieces on the tube as you cut them. Rotate the pieces to create the desired design, clamp from the ends and again wick thin CA into all the joints
 

Mac

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Joined
Feb 15, 2008
Messages
532
Location
Bingen, Arkansas
Wood glue or CA?
I have had some, not many problems with CA. If I can, I prefer wood glue . I use the water proof kind.
I had a christmas ornament come apart in a customers hand and fell and broke, It was CAed together. Thats my reason for wood glue. The CA sometimes will soak up into the wood leaving no glue to glue the two pieces together. CA will not fill voids between joints. All joints need to be near perfect if not. Since the ornament deal, I have started using thin CA down the blank to soak in the wood before I use the med CA to glue in the sanded tube. So you can get passed the soaking CA problem by applying thin CA to the piece, let dry then use med CA to glue them together.
 
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