cutting segmented small blocks

[txcwboy]

I have 3/4 inch blocks. I want to make my own checker board blocks. How can I split them into 2 or 4 to make the pieces needed to glue up to make one piece without lopping off a digit ? I have a bandsaw and a table saw but table saw seems too close to my fingers to be used.

Dave

 

[jaywood1207]

I would use either but the safer way in my opinion would be with the bandsaw and a fence which could be a straight edge clamped to the table if you don't have one. In both cases I would still use a push block to keep the fingers away from the blade.

 

[DFM]

I have a table saw sled that I made loosly following the design here: http://www.davidreedsmith.com/Articles/VacuumRipFence/VacuumRipFence.htm

The vacuum fence holds the small pieces so you don't have to; and I can still count to ten. The table saw will give you straight cuts with no need for sanding, where the bandsaw can give you less than straight and true cuts.

 

[ericw95]

Check out WoodTurning Designs magazine's current issue for photos in the article on segment creation for large open segment bowls. I thought it was neat having a collection jar for segments.

 

[Rmartin]

I use my miter saw with plywood jigs and clamp everything in place, so no hands are harmed during cutting.

 

[Rifleman1776]

For a checker/chess board, you need the grain in proper alignment with the squares or they will eventually pop out. Also they must be in proper alignment with the underlayment. Roy Underhill has a good explanation of this if you can find his books and videos.

 

[txcwboy]

Rmartin your not cutting them length wise though on a mitre. You are cutting 1/4 pieces off the 3/4 x 5 inch pieces ? Then glueing all the pieces together ?

Dave

 

[alxe24]

Grab 2 pieces of the woods that you like to use (Maple and Rosewood) cut them 2" wide; Preferable wider for safety when ripping later and as long as you want. Using the band saw resaw the stock a bit over 3/8" thick and plane both of your woods to the identical thickness 3/8". Now glue them together; you should have a 2" wide by 3/4" by x two tone blank. Next rip that into 3/8" strips (That is why you wanted a wider than 2" and hopefully 12" or more longer for safety)you only need two strips when you are done the last thing to do is invert one of the lengths and glue them back together to create your pattern. Make sure everything lines up. That is why is important to plane the woods to the same thickness.
The other option is to buy one from Don, I’m sure I sell them.

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[txcwboy]

2 problems, dont have a planer and the wood is in 3/4 square by 5.5 inches. That was the whole issue. I want pink ivory and holly in the checker board pattern.

Dave

 

[Rmartin]

Dave,

The answer to your question is yes. I have cut pieces as small as a quarter inch with my miter saw and up to 14 inches lenght wise. The only real difference in using a table saw or miter saw is one you're moving the wood and the other you're moving the blade. The band saw is best because it's blade is thinner, but it's more difficult to get it set right to cut a straight line.

 

[alxe24]

Then I would sand both blanks on 1 face and glue them next to eachother. Now sand the 2 opposite faces o[]f the glue up flush and slpit in two with the band saw. That should give you two pieces of 1 1/2" wide by the length by 3/8" thick or close (blade kerf) since you've sanded the two opposite faces flush now you have two flat flaces to glue to eachother. Just reverse one to make the pattern that you want glue again and cut to desire size, drill the blank glue the tubes inside, flush the ends, mount those on the mandrel and turn to desired shape, finish assemble and enjoy.[][][]
I hope this helps better than my previous post. The band saw still my choice. Less waste and it is safer, not to contradict with with chop saw user and table saw as well since I like them both.
Regards,
Alex Elias