Worksharp 2000 & 3000

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foamcapt40

foamcapt40

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Has anybody used either of these to sharpen lathe tools? The 2000 has a 1750 rpm motor and the 3000 has a much slower motor, 650 rpm I think. The 3000 has an adjustable tool rest and the 2000 doesn't, fixed at 25 degrees. The 3000 has glass wheels that take self stick abrasive and are slotted so you can see what is being sharpened. The 2000 has a slotted wheel tool, although I don't think it is glass. My question is are either of these worth the money for lathe tools? It appears you would still have to freehand gouges to sharpen them. The 2000 is 99.95 and the 3000 is 199.95. What do you think?
 
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I have one of these and do use it to sharpen my lathe tools. It is a nice step up from what I had. I know know what it means to turn with sharp tools. However, I am still thinking about getting a jig for gouges and other tools.

foamcapt40 said:
The 3000 has glass wheels that take self stick abrasive and are slotted so you can see what is being sharpened.
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Actually, the 3000 has two glass wheels and two slotted wheels - they are not the same wheel. I use the slotted wheels more than I do the glass wheels.

One drawback with this tool (when using the slotted wheels) is that you must have it on the edge of a bench when you are sharpening long lathe tools as it requires you to make a long sweep and turn with the tool to keep the cutting edge in the correct relationship with the abrasive.

In summary, it's a useful tool. You can prolly spend less money and have a good bench grinder with a good replacement wheel and a nice Wolverine system set-up.
 
I have the 3000. I love it.

I use the glass wheels for chisels, etc. Sharpening them is a no-brainer.

I also use the slotted wheels freehand for my sharpening tools by looking through them... Probably not as good as a good grinder setup with jigs, but better than most freehand grinder. Its easy too... I keep it close to the lathe to touch up tools.

The wheels are the same for the 2000 & 3000 I think, but I went with the 3000 for its flexibility.
 
I bought the 3000 and it's still a freehand thing to sharpen a gouge and not much better to sharpen a skew because of the angle of the skew. There's a learning curve and I'm still thinking about modifying the chisel sharping guide to accommodate my skews. Mine are oval and they don't want to lay right in the guide without a lot of work and close attention.
 
I have a model 3000 also. Yes there is a learning curve with this sharpener. I like the fact that the tools stay cool. This is much better for holding the edge. I think I will need too invest in more than one slotted wheel, so I can change between grits. The course grit is great for initial shaping, but finer is best for a quick touch-up. Still very new at using it, so just my limited experiences so far. Bob
 
I got a 3000 for Christmas and while it will do plane irons and bench chisels great, I haven't the hang of it for much of anything else.

The downside is that after just a few hours of use the thing makes a clicking noise when you put a tool against the wheel, and the "axel" wobles slightly. I need to call tech support on these problems.
 
I have the 2000. Wanted the 3000 but shipping difference to Japan - due to weight and 2000/3000 price difference would have been $200. SO I decided on the 2000 for now. When I get back to the States, I will probably get a 3000.

I like the fast speed of the 2000 for quick work where lots of metal needs to be removed without over heating.

For lathe tools, I probably will go with a slow grinder one day and a set of jigs. Since I use a form of scrapers more than any other with parting tools next, the 2000 does well. I have a Harbor Freight water wheel slow grinder. It is only a "generic" grinder at best. Not having anything else, it had to do. The 2000 is much much better at shaping and sharpening my chisels than the HF.

I also have sharpened a couple of wood chisels and am very happy with the results. I haven't set it up the way I want it yet. I have two extra wheels for 400/1000/6000 grits for super sharpening.
 
BarrierBob said:
I have a model 3000 also. Yes there is a learning curve with this sharpener. I like the fact that the tools stay cool. This is much better for holding the edge. I think I will need too invest in more than one slotted wheel, so I can change between grits. The course grit is great for initial shaping, but finer is best for a quick touch-up. Still very new at using it, so just my limited experiences so far. Bob
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Yep... I'd recommend a second slotted as well... I got a second SOON after getting mine.
 
I have the 3000 model Work Sharp and it is a good touch up for my lathe tools. I suggest getting the extra stick on grits made for it and also try the leather wheel to get the tools even sharper. I bought my Work Sharp from Hartville Tools and it came with a extra glass wheel and the leather wheel. You can get those stick on grits cheaper also from Klingspores Wooding Supplies and in different grits which helps to do a better job of sharpening IMOP.
 
hilltopper46 said:
I don't find this to be necessarily true - they may stay cool in relationship to how quickly they heat up with a conventional grinder, but I have to be careful or the points of my skews turn color.

YMMV:smile:
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Agreed with what you said, it is "relational". I am able to focus more on sharpening and less on the heat aspect due to this. As you said, YMMV. But it does allow more "V" (variable) in the equation that with a faster grinder.
 
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