Working the angles

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Alan Morrison

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Early stages of trying out a couple of designs. If I do a couple more I should be able to tighten up the joins better, though there are 30 different pieces in some of these so it's not easy. IMG_2056.jpgIMG_2080.jpgIMG_2089.jpg
 
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jttheclockman

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You are doing great work in this area. Like what you are doing. May I make a suggestion and it may not be the look you are going for but it would help hiding the seems. That is to use a black thin spacer every edge of your segments. I found over time when I was playing around with segments this helps hide seems. Anyway keep up the good work.
 

Joebobber

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Very nice. The maple and maybe mahogany one looks like a cutting board i made a few days ago. I really liked how that looks together with the dark between them.
 
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Valleyboy

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Very impressive yet again Alan. Thank you for sharing.

I keep thinking of giving it a go myself, but I just envisage a bin full of bits of wood and a broken man crouched over a bandsaw.

Hope your boys go well against the All Blacks today. Tough gig but they have a chance…

cheers
Ash
 

Alan Morrison

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Very impressive yet again Alan. Thank you for sharing.

I keep thinking of giving it a go myself, but I just envisage a bin full of bits of wood and a broken man crouched over a bandsaw.

Hope your boys go well against the All Blacks today. Tough gig but they have a chance…
Difficult to get a win in Eden Park, especially after losing Sexton.
I would love to see some 'Ash' segmented pens.
Mine are mostly all cut, using a mitre guage, on the table saw.
 

Alan Morrison

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You are doing great work in this area. Like what you are doing. May I make a suggestion and it may not be the look you are going for but it would help hiding the seems. That is to use a black thin spacer every edge of your segments. I found over time when I was playing around with segments this helps hide seems. Anyway keep up the good work.
Thanks for the comments, John.
I now find that the main problem is cutting the triangles to leave a sharp point. I am using a fine kerf Freud blade but still a lot of times the point gets a bit chewed. I have been making a couple using a harder timber, but now the bits ping all over the shop.
 

Joebobber

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Valleyboy

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Difficult to get a win in Eden Park, especially after losing Sexton.
I would love to see some 'Ash' segmented pens.
Mine are mostly all cut, using a mitre guage, on the table saw.
Alas your boys weren't quite up to their usual standard, and definitely missed the game management of Sexton. Still I think they'll be better for it, ready for the next game.
 

jttheclockman

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Thanks for the comments, John.
I now find that the main problem is cutting the triangles to leave a sharp point. I am using a fine kerf Freud blade but still a lot of times the point gets a bit chewed. I have been making a couple using a harder timber, but now the bits ping all over the shop.
A couple things as suggestions. First is the choice of woods. Looks like you are using alot of open grain (soft) wood that cuts with lots of fuzzies on ends. Need more woods such as harder woods. Next is the jig needs to be zero clearance to avoid chipouts. Because with just about all saws they have some degree of runout within the blade or the arbor and this cause vibrations when cutting. Even small pieces. Finally I would think about using runners with doublesided tape to hold pieces steadier. The pinging happens when piece gets to back side of blade and again runout can be the cause. Many times pieces get pinched on the back side of blade and causes them to fling. Ways around that is to make sure sled is tuned. If a small piece is cut the vibration of the saw could slightly kick it back to the blade and thus the launch. That is why I like to use runners with tape. Tilt the cut offs away from back of blade after they are cut. Someone here showed a clever way to use a shop vac to pull pieces away from blade after they are cut. It is in the library I think under this jig sucks or something like that. Good luck.
 

Alan Morrison

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A couple things as suggestions. First is the choice of woods. Looks like you are using alot of open grain (soft) wood that cuts with lots of fuzzies on ends. Need more woods such as harder woods. Next is the jig needs to be zero clearance to avoid chipouts. Because with just about all saws they have some degree of runout within the blade or the arbor and this cause vibrations when cutting. Even small pieces. Finally I would think about using runners with doublesided tape to hold pieces steadier. The pinging happens when piece gets to back side of blade and again runout can be the cause. Many times pieces get pinched on the back side of blade and causes them to fling. Ways around that is to make sure sled is tuned. If a small piece is cut the vibration of the saw could slightly kick it back to the blade and thus the launch. That is why I like to use runners with tape. Tilt the cut offs away from back of blade after they are cut. Someone here showed a clever way to use a shop vac to pull pieces away from blade after they are cut. It is in the library I think under this jig sucks or something like that. Good luck.
Many thanks for your suggestions, John.
PM on its way.
 

mobyturns

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Alan, they are improving nicely. Well done.

Figuring out how to manage the cutting "errors" in your setup is the single largest hurdle to overcome. Unfortunately many saws do have arbor float, blades don't run true, table slots aren't parallel to the blade plane etc, small inaccuracies in sleds & cutting angles etc and they all conspire against you in the pursuit of cutting accuracy & precision. It will come with time and persistence.
 

Joebobber

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They look great, Joe.
I've never attempted making one of those.
They are WAY easier than the cool angles and designs you are doung that's for sure. Once I get my table saw going and figure out how to use it I'm going to try a few different 3d boards and different designs but with my bandsaw no way can i do that, let alone pen size.
 

Alan Morrison

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Alan, they are improving nicely. Well done.

Figuring out how to manage the cutting "errors" in your setup is the single largest hurdle to overcome. Unfortunately many saws do have arbor float, blades don't run true, table slots aren't parallel to the blade plane etc, small inaccuracies in sleds & cutting angles etc and they all conspire against you in the pursuit of cutting accuracy & precision. It will come with time and persistence.
You have that right, Geoff.
 

jrista

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These are really cool... Some of them, when the lines are angled right, have a 3D look to them...like a folded striped piece of paper. The middle two in the third picture have more of an escher look to them...they seem like they are 3D, but they kind of defy the laws of nature and physics. ;)
 

Alan Morrison

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These are really cool... Some of them, when the lines are angled right, have a 3D look to them...like a folded striped piece of paper. The middle two in the third picture have more of an escher look to them...they seem like they are 3D, but they kind of defy the laws of nature and physics. ;)
I had to look up 'Escher' .....never came across it before.
 
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