Woods most prone to cracking over time

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
J

Jhecht

Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2019
Messages
8
Location
Virginia
Having recently turned an ebony pen (and resigned to the risk that it will develop cracks over time), I was thinking it would be useful to have a list of the woods to avoid or most prone to problems down the road. I know I have seen mention of ebony and pink ivory, for example, as particularly risky but not sure I've seen a more comprehensive discussion in one place. If anyone had thoughts on the top 5, 10 or 15 species with highest risk of failure down the road, I would be very interested. Not thinking so much in terms of problems while turning (which you are at least aware of), but of pens that crack a year or two down the line. I know there are a lot of factors that go into it (heat while making the pen, environmental changes, etc.), but still would be interested in the expertise here on relative risk. (I also would love to get thoughts on exotics that are at the *least* risk of problems, but perhaps that is for another thread.). Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I have pens made from ebony and buffalo horn crack after about six months. Also the fruit woods seem to like to crack while drying. I have had plum and crabapple look like I hit them with an axe. Made some red bud bowls that cracked but not beyond being usable.
 
I have a red mallee pen sitting on my desk that I really love the look of, it's a great pen. Except the damn thing is cracked throughout. I've made several pens from red mallee and when I asked around after my experience with this one had at least three people tell me it's prone to cracking?

Not sure if that's true in everyone else's experience or not.
 
Flintski22 said:
Any tips for keeping ebony from cracking?
Click to expand...
I treat it like luthiers and cue makers do.

1-season the wood. Store the wood in a non climate controlled area with good air flow. Wait for a few years. (As many as you can)

2- inspect it and toss aside any that have cracked

3- store the good pieces in a container with a relative humidity close to 50% leave it there long enough to come equilibrium +.

4- complete the work as fast as possible.

All of this is because wood never returns to the exact same size it was during humidity changes. (I Forget the name given to this)

A lot of time involved and I couldn't guarantee it works for a kit pen. I have a styrofoam cooler with several types of Ebony at roughly 50% that I will get to eventually. I will be using it for kitless pens.
It does work here because of the thickness and bonding with resins not metal.
Kit pens end up with such a thin layer and are bonded to metal that is affected differently than wood.
 
Here is my thoughts and opinions. All woods are prone to crack or check as many call it. Many reasons were already mentioned so making a list to me is not necessary. Straight grained tight grain woods are more suspect. The problem is we as pen turners take these woods and thin them down to such miniscue numbers and any movement is a problem. Add the fact we use adhesives that are not pliable. Then when turning there is the heat factor from turning as well as sanding and then polishing. Build a box with 1/2" woods and you have less cracking with the same woods as being mentioned. But again means to allow wood movement is a must. Wood is a live moving material. Outside air temps as well as humidity play a huge role. Again thin pieces of wood. Good luck with the list and with the use of these woods.
 
Dogwood splits like a scorned girlfriend. Fruitwoods like mentioned above also can be temperamental. My experience with apple and pear has been hit or miss.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom