Woodchuck insert issue

[Jeff Barnett]

Hey, I have the new woodchuck that accepts all 4 inserts. I am having an issue with the back corners breaking on my r4 & r2 inserts. It seams like there just isn;t a way to center it and then tighten the screw down without it ending up cocked to one side. I love the tool but really don't like breaking corners on brand new inserts. Drives me nuts!. Anyone else have this issue? Any ideas on how to avoid this?

Thanks,JB

 

[zig613]

Jeff...

I have the older Woodchuck and haven't had any similar problems. Why not send Ken a PM, I'm sure he would be willing to help resolve any problems.

Wade

 

[Jeff Barnett]

Jeff...

I have the older Woodchuck and haven't had any similar problems. Why not send Ken a PM, I'm sure he would be willing to help resolve any problems.

Wade

I have spoken to Ken on the phone about this when ordering new inserts. I love chattin with him and I love the Tool.

I am curious if others are using the "Unitool" with a similar issue or is it just me? I am guessing it's because it is cut back to allow the round insert. This leaves two thin potential points of contact versus a flat long one like on the older tools.

 

[neubee]

I had the same issue and gave Ken a call; he had me send it back and it I believe the hole was tapped deeper for the set screw. I don't have the problem anymore.

 

[PTownSubbie]

I have the bowl pro and have had this same problem. My problem is more with the use of the square inserts. The R inserts seem to do alright but I like the square to use during tenon making.

I wish I new a fix also so I will be following this tread. Hopefully someone will have an answer.

 

[wolftat]

Has anyone contacted Ken and asked him about it? He is a nice guy and his bark is worse than his bite.

 

[PTownSubbie]

Jeff...

I have the older Woodchuck and haven't had any similar problems. Why not send Ken a PM, I'm sure he would be willing to help resolve any problems.

Wade

I have spoken to Ken on the phone about this when ordering new inserts. I love chattin with him and I love the Tool.

I am curious if others are using the "Unitool" with a similar issue or is it just me? I am guessing it's because it is cut back to allow the round insert. This leaves two thin potential points of contact versus a flat long one like on the older tools.

Has anyone contacted Ken and asked him about it? He is a nice guy and his bark is worse than his bite.

I have also. Not trying to gouge....Just is fairly frustrating to not be able to use the tool to the max extent.

 

[Jeff Barnett]

I had the same issue and gave Ken a call; he had me send it back and it I believe the hole was tapped deeper for the set screw. I don't have the problem anymore.

Mine appears to be tapped deep enough as it will hold but the last time I go to turn it it will inevitably turn a bit off kilter. I have tried holding it on a block of wood to create a stop but it doesn't work for me. On occasion I will get it in the perfect position but at some point I need to change tips and then it all starts over again. Holding the tool off center just feels strange with the nature of how the tool cuts.

Even with this issue the thing removes wood like nobody's business.

 

[ossaguy]

I was wondering about this too.I got my Woodchuck Pro last Saturday,and when tightening the insert,it cocks to the right when you final-tighten it.I was thinking that the square cut-out was machined a bit too much? After lots of tries,I got it pretty straght across.


Can someone explain the difference between the 2 inserts that come with it? They are the R-2,and R-4 but to me,they look like they are the same,even on the website photos.What am I not seeing??

I'm super impressed with the quality of the handle,and how well it cuts! I like how smooth it leaves the wood,too.Should save a lot on sandpaper,I hope.

This should improve my penturning skills.

So I'm hoping for some tightening-tips so the insert ends up straight across.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[sbell111]

Can someone explain the difference between the 2 inserts that come with it? They are the R-2,and R-4 but to me,they look like they are the same,even on the website photos.What am I not seeing??

The 'R' stands for radius. If the curved line on the face of the tool was carried around to draw an entire circle, the R-2 insert would create a circle with a two inch radius while the R-4 insert's circle would have a three inch radius. Therefore, the R-2 insert's cutting area has more curve than the R-4's insert.

 

[socdad]

I have the bowl pro and have had this same problem and contacted Ken. As I recall it (can't find the email or PM) Ken suggested I place something thin, like an old credit card, between the insert and the tang to help keep the insert square as I tighten the screw … worked a bit but the insert still is not square … tool cuts great but I would like to find a fix …

 

[bitshird]

Hey, I have the new woodchuck that accepts all 4 inserts. I am having an issue with the back corners breaking on my r4 & r2 inserts. It seams like there just isn;t a way to center it and then tighten the screw down without it ending up cocked to one side. I love the tool but really don't like breaking corners on brand new inserts. Drives me nuts!. Anyone else have this issue? Any ideas on how to avoid this?

Thanks,JB

Jeff, if you happen to have a fine file, just very lightly touch the top corners of the two points, Just a slight bit to break the corners, this should help, The square inserts can be problematic, but the R2 and R4 should hold up well.
Also the r2 is supposed to rotate slightly clockwise as it's tightned down.

I have the bowl pro and have had this same problem. My problem is more with the use of the square inserts. The R inserts seem to do alright but I like the square to use during tenon making.

I wish I new a fix also so I will be following this tread. Hopefully someone will have an answer.

Fred, same thing, at this point I wish I had not started using the 15-SQ inserts, but like I said in the above post juts break the very top corners, The square insert was a bad idea on my part, and we are about to stop production on the tool using all 4 inserts and keep it strictly with the round insert, and the R2 and R4.

I was wondering about this too.I got my Woodchuck Pro last Saturday,and when tightening the insert,it cocks to the right when you final-tighten it.I was thinking that the square cut-out was machined a bit too much? After lots of tries,I got it pretty straight across.
OK the 15-R4 will sit perfectly straight, but if you read the instructions, on the second page, second paragraph it explains that the R2 insert does rotate in a clockwise.


Can someone explain the difference between the 2 inserts that come with it? They are the R-2,and R-4 but to me,they look like they are the same,even on the website photos.What am I not seeing??

I'm super impressed with the quality of the handle,and how well it cuts! I like how smooth it leaves the wood,too.Should save a lot on sandpaper,I hope.

This should improve my penturning skills.

So I'm hoping for some tightening-tips so the insert ends up straight across.

Thanks,
Steve

Steve, . If you draw an 8 inch circle and a 4 inch circle put two intersecting lines about .600 apart you cal lay an R4 on the line and see the curvature on the paper, same thing with the 4 inch circle, which will show the curvature of the 2 inch radius, Radius = !/2 of Diameter.


I hope this helps answer some of the problems, if any one has any more questions or if I can be of any help, please don't hesitate to PM me or Call me, my number is on the website.
Thanks

 

[moke]

I have used Ken's tools for a couple of years now and have had some issue with the corners chipping....not consistantly though. I have some diamond files that I bought with the intent of sharpening the inserts and cutter heads for pen mills. I came to the conclusion that it is much easier and more efficient to buy new ones, they are not that expensive.

In order to put them on so they are not "off kilter" you simply need a vise lined with hard wood, clamp the "business end" of the wood chuck in it, and tighten the insert when you have it straight.

I have also found that even though the R 2 and R 4 look the same they feel very different when you are using them---I prefer the 4's. It is more like a scraper..

 

[Jeff Barnett]

Can someone explain the difference between the 2 inserts that come with it? They are the R-2,and R-4 but to me,they look like they are the same,even on the website photos.What am I not seeing??

The 'R' stands for radius. If the curved line on the face of the tool was carried around to draw an entire circle, the R-2 insert would create a circle with a two inch radius while the R-4 insert's circle would have a three inch radius. Therefore, the R-2 insert's cutting area has more curve than the R-4's insert.

The r4 is a 4" radius.

 

[sbell111]

Can someone explain the difference between the 2 inserts that come with it? They are the R-2,and R-4 but to me,they look like they are the same,even on the website photos.What am I not seeing??

The 'R' stands for radius. If the curved line on the face of the tool was carried around to draw an entire circle, the R-2 insert would create a circle with a two inch radius while the R-4 insert's circle would have a three inch radius. Therefore, the R-2 insert's cutting area has more curve than the R-4's insert.

The r4 is a 4" radius.

That's why I should proof read my posts.

 

[Jeff Barnett]

Can someone explain the difference between the 2 inserts that come with it? They are the R-2,and R-4 but to me,they look like they are the same,even on the website photos.What am I not seeing??

The 'R' stands for radius. If the curved line on the face of the tool was carried around to draw an entire circle, the R-2 insert would create a circle with a two inch radius while the R-4 insert's circle would have a three inch radius. Therefore, the R-2 insert's cutting area has more curve than the R-4's insert.

The r4 is a 4" radius.

That's why I should proof read my posts.

...

 

[Jeff Barnett]

Hey, I have the new woodchuck that accepts all 4 inserts. I am having an issue with the back corners breaking on my r4 & r2 inserts. It seams like there just isn;t a way to center it and then tighten the screw down without it ending up cocked to one side. I love the tool but really don't like breaking corners on brand new inserts. Drives me nuts!. Anyone else have this issue? Any ideas on how to avoid this?

Thanks,JB

Jeff, if you happen to have a fine file, just very lightly touch the top corners of the two points, Just a slight bit to break the corners, this should help, The square inserts can be problematic, but the R2 and R4 should hold up well.
Also the r2 is supposed to rotate slightly clockwise as it's tightened down.

I have the bowl pro and have had this same problem. My problem is more with the use of the square inserts. The R inserts seem to do alright but I like the square to use during tenon making.

I wish I new a fix also so I will be following this tread. Hopefully someone will have an answer.

Fred, same thing, at this point I wish I had not started using the 15-SQ inserts, but like I said in the above post juts break the very top corners, The square insert was a bad idea on my part, and we are about to stop production on the tool using all 4 inserts and keep it strictly with the round insert, and the R2 and R4.

I was wondering about this too.I got my Woodchuck Pro last Saturday,and when tightening the insert,it cocks to the right when you final-tighten it.I was thinking that the square cut-out was machined a bit too much? After lots of tries,I got it pretty straight across.
OK the 15-R4 will sit perfectly straight, but if you read the instructions, on the second page, second paragraph it explains that the R2 insert does rotate in a clockwise.


Can someone explain the difference between the 2 inserts that come with it? They are the R-2,and R-4 but to me,they look like they are the same,even on the website photos.What am I not seeing??

I'm super impressed with the quality of the handle,and how well it cuts! I like how smooth it leaves the wood,too.Should save a lot on sandpaper,I hope.

This should improve my penturning skills.

So I'm hoping for some tightening-tips so the insert ends up straight across.

Thanks,
Steve

Steve, . If you draw an 8 inch circle and a 4 inch circle put two intersecting lines about .600 apart you cal lay an R4 on the line and see the curvature on the paper, same thing with the 4 inch circle, which will show the curvature of the 2 inch radius, Radius = !/2 of Diameter.


I hope this helps answer some of the problems, if any one has any more questions or if I can be of any help, please don't hesitate to PM me or Call me, my number is on the website.
Thanks

I think I have a simple solution to the square insert problem Ken. I willl try a call you today and see what you think.