Wood cracking on new turning

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Bill Sampson

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Joined
Dec 14, 2008
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219
Location
Richmond, Va
I am having a problem with barrells cracking on Jr Gents when the inserts are pressed into the lower barrell. (One of my preferred kits) The last three have cracked during assembly. I am turning burled black wood and mesquite. I have used this wood numerous times without problems and am not having a problem with other kits, ie; Majestic Jr, Sierra, and Baron. Any suggestions as to a solution? I have not changed any process in turning and assembling.

Bill Sampson, Richmond
 
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My guess would be residual glue inside the tube. It only takes a very tiny amount of material inside the tube to cause the pieces to bind during assembly.
 
I've had issues with that too. I was using the biggest drill bit I can fit inside the tube and working it back and forth and around.

I tried something new on my Crimson Gold.. I used a tapered punch and wrapped some 400 grit paper around it. The taper pushes the paper against the tube at an angle, then I just spin the tube on the paper.

It looks clean on the inside, and provides for a slight ramp to better align and press the parts in.
 
Don and Keith,

Thanks for the response. The glue could be the problem and I will try the 400 grit to clean the tube pryor to assembly.

Bill Sampson, Richmond
 
Two items will most likely solve your issues. A deburring tool and a brass bristled .40 cal. cleaning brush. The deburing tool will slightly taper the inside of the tube for easier starts, the brush mounted on hand drill or drill press willl clean away any risidual glue.

Landon
 
My bet is on glue in the tube. If you're gluing in your tubes with CA, the bristled brush will work great. If you're using epoxy, then you'll need something more aggressive like a round file. With epoxy though, lately I've experimented with gluing in my tube, and before the epoxy sets up all the way, I soak a q-tip in acetone and wipe the glue off the inside of the barrel....has worked great so far. It cleans it right up, the acetone evaporates very quickly causing no problems to the wood, and it avoids most if not all filing after the glue dries to minimize problems with filing into the brass tube.
 
I'll second the glue in tube theory. I use a knife tip to clean out and often a 45 degree reamer to (very slightly) bevel the end of the tube and remove burrs.
Also, understand that burls are just waiting for an excuse to crack. Ye gotta be careful.
 
hunter-27 said:
Two items will most likely solve your issues. A deburring tool and a brass bristled .40 cal. cleaning brush. The deburing tool will slightly taper the inside of the tube for easier starts, the brush mounted on hand drill or drill press willl clean away any risidual glue.

Landon
Click to expand...
To clarify, I use poly glues on my tubes and the slightly oversized brush works well. I rarely use expoxy so I can't answer to it but I assume it is correct to say cured epoxy might need something more aggressive. :eek:
 
Drip thin CA on the end of the blank after you "face" it, before you turn it. Will reinforce
the wood, making it less likely to crack. (Then clean the tubes out with a small pocket knife)
 
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Drip thin CA on the end of the blank after you "face" it, before you turn it. Will reinforce the wood, making it less likely to crack. (Then clean the tubes out with a small pocket knife)

Now don't you wish you had said that, Charlie???
 
Thanks for all the help. I turned a BE burl this afternoon and waited until tonight to assemble. Used several of your suggestions and the assembly went smoothly with no cracks! I have another blackwood burl ready to turn and will use the thin CA on end of the blanks.

When I figure out how to post pictures, will show this one.

Bill Sampson, Richmond
 
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