wood and metal polishing question

[skiprat]

Hi all,
I wood like to make a pen or two with wood instead of acrylic, but with my own metal ( brass or ali ) bits. I did try once, but couldn't keep the black slurry from the metal polishing from impregnating the wood. Has anyone done this successfully? If so, please let me know how to overcome this.
Typically, the wood and metal would be combined ( either segmented or laminated )in the same blank.

Any help will be welcomed
Thanks

 

[wdcav1952]

Steven,

Just a thought, have you tried soaking the wood with thin CA prior to polishing? That helps me to keep dark woods from bleeding into lighter woods.

 

[mrcook4570]

I don't have any experience with metal/wood segments but I do frequently inlay metal into the wood. Make your final cut with a very sharp skew to keep sanding to a minimum. Coat the wood with thin CA prior to sanding and after each grit. If any black gunk from the metal gets into the wood, I have had success in cleaning it out with denatured alcohol.

 

[ChrisinOR]

This is an issue I work with quite frequently. Since I am a custom knifemaker metal and wood right next to each other is a common occurence. My advice, mask off the different sections. Polish the wood first and have the metal masked off. Next mask off the wood and polish the metal. It doesn't seem to work too well going the other direction. Reason: if you mask the already polished metal you will have a tough time removing the tape residue from the metal. Another thing you can do is have separate buffing wheels, one for metals and one for woods. This also works pretty good. You can kind of cycle them through. Older used wood buffing wheels will work good for metal. The newest one should always be the wood wheel.

Chris Nilluka

 

[Nightingale]

You might try using a masking tape manufactured for commercial artists, architects, etc., who cannot have the masking tape sticking to their finished product or leaving a residue after removal. john

 

[btboone]

I've found that I can polish metal right next to CA coated wood if both have been MicroMeshed and are close to polish to begin with. A big part of the equation is to have the polisher either have a small diameter, like 4" wheel or have the speed reduced. Going too fast will imbed bits of metal in the finish. It takes a white compound, and quick touches of the part to the wheel, so things have a chance to cool down between strokes are required. I've done this sucessfully with titanium. It will be a little tougher to do with softer materials like brass or aluminum, but the same principles will apply. Use very quick touches of a nearly polished MicroMeshed and CA'ed part to a slow rotating fluffy wheel that has a white compound and you should have success.